There’s a fair amount of wine to get through, so let’s keep the formalities brief. “The 2015 vintage in Germany is clearly exceptional,” wrote Jancis Robinson, whose tasting reports on the Mosel, Rheingau, Nahe, Pfalz and Rheinhessen were gathered beneath the heading “Germany’s glorious 2015s”. “Rarely have we seen so much anticipative raving from winemakers, grower associations and merchants alike than for the 2015 vintage,” write Jean Fisch and David Rayer of independent Riesling review Mosel Fine Wines. OK, it’s not the first time we’ve heard whisperings of a ‘vintage of the century’. “But,” says Robinson’s resident German specialist Michael Schmidt, “2015 may well turn out to be the real thing.” For Fisch and Rayer, “2015 is characterised by a unique combination of ripe fruit and zesty acidity, making its wines highly appealing and very easy to understand”. That’s enough for Stephan Reinhardt of The Wine Advocate to declare it “doubtlessly excellent”. Writing for jamessuckling.com, Best White Wine on Earth author Stuart Pigott expects it to be a global, breakout vintage for the GGs. “Rightly so,” he continues, “because these wines are not only delicious and distinctive, but can be drunk in the same dining situations in which Chablis and other elegant, non-oaky Chardonnays are natural choices. Even more, the special balance of fruit, body, and acidity enables high-end dry Riesling to marry much better with spicy foods.”
The estates that follow overcame various challenges to produce outstanding wines in 2012, 2013 and 2014. But as Erni Loosen quips, 2015 was “balm to the winemaker’s soul”. All the great regions enjoyed favourable conditions. The result is that the incredible range of Riesling – from light, racy Kabinetts to botrytised elixirs and piquant, powerfully complex GGs – shines in all its glory.
THE FOLLOWING PRODUCERS ARE INCLUDED IN THIS REPORT – read on for wines and reviews:
DR LOOSEN
“This is again a gorgeous collection by the Dr Loosen Estate, which offers some gorgeously vibrant dry wines, crisp Kabinett, smooth yet playful Spätlese and gorgeously honeyed Auslese.” Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines
HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN
“The 2015 dry Riesling wines combine a delicate touch of complex opulence with bright fruit and presence which will please lovers of delicate yet fuller-bodied wines.” Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines
GEORG BREUER
DÖNNHOFF
“Tasting this wine is like standing on the peak of a high mountain surveying range upon range of peaks into an unfathomable distance.” – Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
- CHRISTMANN
“After his excellent 2014s, Steffen Christmann has bottled another great range of 2015s.” – Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
GUNDERLOCH
“After I finished my tastings of the Gunderloch 2015s I can say that the wines are dreamlike indeed. Gunderloch’s 2015s are ripe, intense and powerful, but also vital, full of elegance and tension.” – Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
WITTMANN
“Wittmann’s 2015 range is excellent again and is comprised of world-class, dry Rieslings” – Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
THE WINES
What follows is a list of the Riesling wines from the 2015 vintage that have been shipped to Australia. Many of them are no longer available from CellarHand but are available from various restaurants and retail outlets. If you’d like to track them down, please don’t hesitate to contact us.
2015 Dr Loosen ‘Dr L’ Dry Riesling RRP $25
The 2015er Riesling Dry Dr. L is fermented and matured in stainless steel. It offers a very attractive and direct nose of pear, spices and herbs, leaving an elegantly mineral and fruity feel in the long nice finish. 2017-2020. 87 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett RRP $40
MAGNUM RRP $106
The 2015er Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett was made with fruit harvested at a modest 82° Oechsle. It offers a gorgeous nose of fresh herbs, white peach and spices. The wine dances on the palate, with good presence and elegance. The finish is airy and vibrant. This is a deliciously well-made Kabinett 2025-2035. 91 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett RRP $43
MAGNUM RRP $106
This offers a rather elegant feel of herbs and spices, pear and white flowers on the nose. The wine is nicely elegant and vibrant yet well balanced on the palate and leaves a clean feel in the finish. The wine only needs a little bit of time to smoothen its sharp edges and should then prove a lovely expression of Wehlener Sonnenuhr. 2025-2040. 92 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett RRP $43
2015 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese RRP $65
This offers a rather elegant nose of pear, white minerals and flowers. The wine is delicately creamy on the palate, with more minerals and a touch of sweetness still in need of integration. The finish proves however nicely vibrant and juicy. 2025-2040. 91 points. . Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese MAGNUM RRP $149
This offers a gorgeous elegant feel of yellow peach, white minerals and earthy herbs. The wine is nicely playful and vibrant on the palate as more white minerals and juicy yellow fruits come through towards the airy and elegant finish. This proves light, airy and very hard to resist. It only needs a decade to fully integrate its youthful exuberance. 2025-2045. 93 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese MAGNUM RRP $149
Tank sample. Dense and spicy indeed! Very winning and juicy. Old style in a way… Drink 2022-2035. 17/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com May 2016
This offers a ripe nose of fresh herbs, spices, melon and pear. The wine is nicely ripe and juicy on the palate and leaves a gorgeous and delicately ripe feel on the palate and in the long and gorgeously zesty finish. 2025-2040. 92 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 187ml RRP $32
This offers a gorgeous nose of apricot, herbs, yellow peach, baked pineapple and spices. The wine is rather ripe and rich on the palate and develops an intense and slightly broad feel in the creamy and vibrant finish. This will firm up with age and should then prove a great expression of Riesling Auslese. 2025-2040. 91-93 points. . Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese MAGNUM RRP $256
This offers a gorgeous nose of yellow peach wrapped into a hint of apricot, some white minerals and lots of fine spices. The wine is gorgeously fruity and vibrant on the palate and leaves a superb yet playful “Auslese GK” feel in the creamy and vibrant finish. 2025-2040. 92-91 points. Jean Fisch and David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 375ml RRP $91
MAGNUM RRP $396
This offers a gorgeous elegant nose of yellow peach, spices and herbs. A beautifully elegant touch of airy minerals adds a gorgeous side to the smooth and delicately creamy feel on the palate, where honeyed fruits and smoky minerals woe for attention. The finish is focused, precise and delicately sweet. This is a stunningly complex rendition of dessert wine from the Prälat in the making! 2030-2055. 94-96 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese MAGNUM RRP $256
This offers a great nose of yellow peach and grapefruit wrapped into almond, honeyed herbs and fine spices. The honeyed side takes over on the ravishingly playful palate and leaves a slightly broad but nicely Auslese GK feel in the long finish. 2025-2045+. 91-94 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN
2015 Heymann-Löwenstein Schieferterrassen Riesling RRP $58
MAGNUM RRP $117
The 2015er Trocken Schieferterrassen is made from the Estate’s holdings in Winningen (Domgarten, Brückstück and Hamm) and Kobern (Fahrberg and Weissenberg) as well as from declassified fruit from its “cru” vineyards. It offers a gorgeous nose of marzipan, herbs and spices. The wine is delicately baroque and full of character on the palate as ripe yellow fruits are nicely complemented by spicy herbs and a hint of tartness in the finish. 2018-2025. 88 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
RHEINGAU
GEORG BREUER
2015 Georg Breuer Rüdesheim Riesling RRP $39
2015 Georg Breuer Terra Montosa Riesling RRP $58
375ml RRP $39
2015 Georg Breuer Rheingau Riesling Auslese 375ml RRP $39
NAHE
DÖNNHOFF
2015 Dönnhoff Tonschiefer Riesling RRP $53
MAGNUM RRP $132
2015 Dönnhoff Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $140
MAGNUM RRP $297
The new Miss World of white wines is Cornelius Dönnhoff’s Dellchen. A ravishing nose of wild roses and white peach leaves no possibility of doubt. The very sleek and perfectly proportioned body dances on the palate like no other wine of this vintage. The finish is super filigree and super long. 97 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com September 2016
A fascinating concoction of mirabelle, yellow plum and rhubarb flan does not need the help of tropical-fruit overdrive to excite the nostrils of even the most pampered Riesling enthusiast. Total purity is the trademark of Dönnhoff’s Grosse Gewächse, and the Dellchen uses mineral finesse and perfectly poised acidity to achieve this aim. 19/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com August 2016
2015 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $149
MAGNUM RRP $322
Tasting this wine is like standing on the peak of a high mountain surveying range upon range of peaks into an unfathomable distance. At first it is much more yeasty than the other Dönnhoff GGs, but unlike them it opens up slowly. This is an enormously deep and complex wine, and it would require half a page to list all the fruit (most importantly every shade of peach), herbal and floral aromas you can find in here. However, the most important thing is how the enormous depth is accommodated in such an incredibly elegant package. The finish goes on and on and on, revealing ever more new nuances. The perfect balance give it decades of ageing potential. 98 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com September 2016
The hardest thing when describing Dönnhoff’s 2015 Hermannshöhle is to refrain from an accumulation of superlatives. The ripe fruit of local orchards growing along the banks of a crystal-clear stream flowing over rocks and stones in the pure air of a cool Indian summer morning…well, there is more veritas in this vino than today’s nature can throw at you even with its best efforts. Let’s just say: purity, minerality, vibrancy, complexity. If you want more – (try to) buy it! 19.5/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com August 2016
2015 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese RRP $106
MAGNUM RRP $239
AP number 18 16. Quite rich and sweet with a big robust mouthful of fruit. Full on! Lots of ripe kiwi flavour here. 16.5/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com June 2016
2015 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 375ml RRP $96
Pungent nose, very round and fruity with great refinement. A real baby but with satin texture and peachy fruit. 18/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com May 2016
2015 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Eiswein 375ml RRP $425
PFALZ
- CHRISTMANN
2015 A. Christmann Riesling RRP $39
Christmann’s 2015 Riesling Trocken offers a pure, pretty deep and subtle bouquet of crushed stones, lemon flavors and ripe white fruits. Lean and rich and persistent at there same time, this is a stunning dry Riesling that pairs ripeness and its rich core with lightness, freshness and vitality. It’s highly delicate and elegant; the finish is mineral and lemony-fresh. Highly recommended, especially for those of you who do not want their Riesling too complex, but ambitious nonetheless. 88 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2015 A. Christmann Reiterpfad-Hofstück Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $113
Christmann’s 2015 Reiterpfad-Hofstück Riesling Trocken GG displays a lovely, deep, intense and concentrated
lemon flavor with floral/herbal and some almond aromas. Very complex! Piquant and firm on the palate, this is a very elegant, compact and densely woven Riesling with a silky texture, great balance and expression. The finish is dense, aromatic and very long. This is an enormously complex Riesling to be aged for 10-15 years. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2015 A. Christmann Idig Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $140
MAGNUM RRP $297
Noble oaky flavors intertwined with a perfume of ripe stone fruits, lemons, herbs and crushed stones open to the 
very deep, complex and concentrated 2015 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Trocken GG. This full-bodied, powerful, round and juicy, yet vital and finesse-full Riesling reveals a dense and silky texture. The wine is structured with fine tannins and a highly elegant, mouthwatering and mineral acidity. The oak is still detectable in the beginning, but gets very well integrated with (some hours of) aeration. The finish is pure and salty, as well as powerful, sappy and aromatic. The 2015 Idig is very fine, but also compact and powerful. This will need some years to unfold its great character. 95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
A hint of smoke from long yeast contact, but also complex earthy notes mark this out as one of the most serious dry rieslings of the vintage in the Pfalz. In spite of the understated style, this is already a delicious wine in which the power is all hidden beneath the calm surface; it only makes itself felt directly on the impressively long and complete finish. 94 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2016
Pale greenish straw. Nutty, interesting nose with some elegance. Racy too. Molten honey satin texture without being particularly sweet. Full and interesting – quite a contrast to the same producer’s Mandelgarten! 17/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com August 2016
RHEINHESSEN
GUNDERLOCH
2015 Gunderloch Fritz’s Riesling RRP $23
Redolent of white raspberry jam and mint, this white is lush and creamy midpalate, with crackling acidity. The off-dry finish delivers honey and spice details. Drink now through 2018. 90 points. Kim Marcus, Wine Spectator Top 100 of 2016
2015 Gunderloch Jean-Baptiste Riesling Kabinett RRP $32
Flinty and fresh on the nose, with a bright and stony fruit aroma, the 2015 Riesling Kabinett Feinherb Jean Baptiste is light and filigreed, round and piquant, as well as refreshingly salty in the finish. A delicious Kabinett. 89 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2017
2015 Gunderloch Nierstein Riesling RRP $42
Gunderloch’s 2015 Nierstein Riesling Trocken assembles grapes picked between September 26 and October 10, all from Nierstein’s top vineyards that were not selected for the GG bottling. The wine is very clear and mineral on the nose, and indicates a pure and stony character. Clear, pure and elegant on the palate, the 2015 is intense and juicy, but also delicate and characterized by its crystalline, pronounced, almost steely, mineral acidity and mineral structure. This is an excellent wine for lower budgets. 90 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2015 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 375ml RRP $49
WITTMANN
2015 Wittmann 100 Hügel Riesling RRP $29
From purchased grapes, the 2015 Riesling Dry 100 Hills is a very clear and fresh, well-structured, pretty intense and ripe Rheinhessen. It has elegance and a nice round fruitiness. The finish is pretty intense and grippy. Very good quality. 87 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2015 Wittmann Estate Riesling RRP $39
MAGNUM RRP $85
Bottled early April. Very intense floral nose and good balance on the palate – not too austere. Lots to enjoy here. Very fluid and flavourful. Would make a great wine in a resto or wine bar. 16.5/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com October 2016
2015 Wittmann Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $117
The 2015 Riesling GG Aulerde is clear, intense and very aromatic on the nose, where warm and ripe stone, pip and tropical fruits (passion fruit) are displayed; there are also chalky flavors that come out better than in former years. The wine has a stunning freshness, finesse and mineral vitality, combining its rich and dense texture with grip and piquancy. The finish displays some cooked fruit and stimulating passion fruit aromas, but remains clear, dry, firm and fresh. This is a stunning Aulerde, given this warm and dry vintage. Probably the finest I have ever tasted. “In ripe years, the Aulerde tends to be too fat. But in 2015, the acidity (10.6 grams per liter after the fermentation) was perfect,” says Philipp Wittmann. 91-92 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
Very attractive nose of a tropical garden after rain with hints of floral honey and yellow grapefruit. Generous and juicy, but without a gram of fat on the full body. Closes with a long and complex herbal finish. 93 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2016
Pale greenish straw. Relatively light but very juicy and appetising nose. Good balance – high acid is not excessive. Lots to chew on. Still embryonic. Wait. 17/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com August 2016
2015 Wittmann Kirchspiel Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $117
Wittmann’s 2015 Riesling GG Kirchspiel comes from the steepest vineyard of the family, which is facing east and always delivers spicier and coolish flavors. This wine opens with a lovely, pure, cool, fresh and smoky lemon and Waldmeister flavor over crushed limestones. Piquant, fresh and citrus-like on the palate, this is a densely woven, rich, intense and powerful Kirchspiel. It has chalk and flesh—intellectual and hedonistic components. The wine is very clear and fresh, combining its powerful and chalky nature with tension, freshness and finesse. The finish is long and very promising. This is a Riesling to be served with food, crustacean perhaps. I would not pour it before 2020 though. 91-93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
Subtle aromas of ripe yellow fruit and summer flowers provide the introduction for a noble wine that combines great ripeness with uplifting freshness and intense minerality on the very long finish; long-term ageing potential (the 1921 is still very much alive)! 93 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2016
2015 Wittmann Brunnenhäuschen Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $140
The 2015 Riesling GG Brunnenhäuschen offers a beautiful, clear, deep and complex nose that is pure, fresh and cool; it is very precise and elegant, as well as floral and stony. This has a unique style. On the palate, this is a clear, precise and electrifying Riesling with purity, lots of tension and minerality. The finish is lean, piquant, very long and precise, with a long and stimulating finish. This is a great wine. The chalk comes along finely grained and dusty, and the overall texture is silky, but the finish is almost crystalline in its precision and salinity. This is a benchmark Riesling trocken for 2015, at least in Southern Rheinhessen. The finish reveals some alcohol and overripe fruits, but also purity and piquancy. Like the Morstein, the Brunnenhäuschen is from a higher plot and gives cooler aromas. This wine was picked late on October 10th. 93-95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
The honeysuckle and ripe cantaloupe aromas make this a very attractive wine. In spite of the considerable depth, it remains rather sleek and super-elegant until the turbo kicks in with a super-long finish. 94 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2016
2015 Wittmann Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $140
MAGNUM RRP $288
Wittmann’s iconic 2015 Riesling GG Morstein comes along as a limestone rock incarnation of Riesling with concentrated fruits and lemon perfume on the nose. Fermented in Doppelstück (2,400-liter oak vats), the 2015 is cool and herbal on the nose, very chalky, citrus-like and beautifully concentrated. It has ripe pineapples aromas and crushed rocks. This is extremely well focused, pure and precise. Fresh and salty on the palate, this full-bodied and highly elegant 2015 is intense and juicy, but also taut and very piquant in the finish. This wine is long, persistent, very complex and salty on the finish. There is really good tension and grip here and the chalk seems to crumble on the palate. A promising and powerful Morstein that will further improve in the bottle. This is a Must Have of the 2015 vintage. The acidity is almost Mosel-like in its delicacy. The finish has great grip and tension. This is great wine. ‘Morstein is so complex, because we have so many parcels here and can compose like how we want. But the central part gives great wines in every year.’ Total production is 1,100 liters. 94-96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
Although a bit shy and many years from its peak, this is clearly one of the finest dry Rieslings of this great vintage. The nose of tropical flowers, peaches, and pineapple is subtle and enticing. On the palate it’s as deep and concentrated as it is delicate and tantalizing. The breathtaking finish is as mineral as wine can be. Patience will be rewarded. 97 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2016
Savoury, complex nose. Masses of energy and extract. Almost painful acidity. Needs time but is already promising. 17/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com August 2016