2013 Huber Bienenberg Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs

Bernhard Huber

Germany / Baden / Bernhard Huber

Huber’s holdings in the grand cru Bienenberg vineyard were planted in the 50s and 60s with primarily German clones. They are the oldest on the estate. Of the approximately 130-hectare Bienenberg Vineyard, Huber owns 15 hectares. Of this, about 10.45 ha is classified Grosses Gewächs. The soil is yellow-reddish shell limestone. The aspect is south-east to south-west. Part of the vineyard is on a 15% slope (so passable with vineyard equipment) and part is on small, steeply ascending terraces (up to 60% gradient). The average vine age is between two and 53 years and yields are around 30 hl/ha. The Pinot Noir is marked by red fruits with hints of violets. Equipped with power and elegance, it takes time to play out its potential.

July, 2017

Gary Walsh

The Wine Front

95 points

One of Huber’s grand cru vineyards, with vines planted in the 50s and 60s. Finer, and more ‘minerally’ than the Alte Reben 2013, though quite similar. Smoky whole bunch spice, dark cherry and chocolate, with raspberry filling, hazelnut and stony mineral stuff. Medium bodied, distinct ‘minerality’ here with pure acidity, an almost volcanic rock character, with brisk and bright flavour, raspberry packed with spice and a very long detailed finish. Crisp. Energetic. So expressive. You can almost taste the earth. Great expression of Pinot Noir.

September, 2015

Michael Schmidt

jancisrobinson.com

17.5/20

Quite reserved in its fragrance, the Bienenberg nevertheless grants delightful glimpses of bramble, blackberries and bonfire smoke. The palate is far more generous and reflects the Bienenberg’s proximity to the Black Forest by a gateau-like richness of sweet cherries, but although the fruit is juicy and the texture creamy, assertive tannins and healthy acidity make sure that the wine is not lacking in structure.

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About Bernhard Huber

The Huber winery is located in Malterdingen in the winegrowing region of Baden in the foothills of the Black Forest mountains in Germany’s deep south west. Pinot Noir has been cultivated in the village for well over 700 years, having been brought there from Burgundy by the Cistercian monks. About two-thirds of the 25 ha estate is given over to Pinot Noir, and from these vines Bernhard Huber made scintillating wines right up to his death from illness in June 2014. This gracious gentleman had taken pointers in the early days from his great friend Jacques Seysses at Domaine Dujac but never tried to make his Pinots taste like Burgundy, instead drawing on those ideas to express the sites around Malterdingen and surrounding villages. I was lucky enough to visit Bernhard on three or four occasions over the last five years and every time came away more and more convinced that these are world-class Pinots by any measure. Winemaking responsibilities have passed to Bernhard’s son Julian, who’s inherited his father’s passion for Baden and dedication to quality.

About

Julian Huber grew up among the vines in Malterdingen, an apprentice to the "wizard of German Pinot Noir", as Jancis Robinson's German specialist Michael Schmidt referred to Julian's father, Bernhard. Julian studied winemaking at the world-famous institute at Geisenheim in the Rheingau. He returned from his final year there to work Bernhard’s final vintage in 2013. Since Bernhard's death in 2014, Julian's taken up the winemaking mantle with aplomb, displaying the same humble energy and vision for which his father was rightly admired.