Clare Valley legends, the Barry family, of Jim Barry Wines & clos Clare fame, are a genuine Tour de Force. The multi-generational family business (Jim Barry wines) has seen the family not only be standard- bearers of all things Clare within Australia, but as custodians of some of the regions’ most brilliant vineyard sites, they have taken the wines of the Clare to the world and helped establish the region as one of the most exciting sources of site-specific wines coming out of Australia today.
3rd Generation growers, brothers Sam & Tom Barry, were born in the vineyards of the Clare and recently took on the reins of the family business, and are continuing the family’s pioneering legacy of exploring the hills and slopes of the Clare with the vision of bringing to the world wines that tell the story of the past, present and future of this glorious part of the globe that they call home.
The Clare Valley, found some 100km north of Adelaide, was once renowned as the ‘garden of the north’ and the people who tended the fruit orchards and vineyards were known as ‘gardeners.’ In 2019, the opportunity came up to add to the family vineyards when a historic site, well known to the Barry brothers, came up for sale. As Sam and Tom Barry delved into the history of the property, they uncovered tales of a host of interesting characters with wonderful stories that had helped establish the vines that were now for sale.
“I had always been drawn to this site having driven past hundreds of times and always admired the old rusty Windmill sitting adjacent to a beautiful old gum tree. This was before I knew the name of the property and the history of winemaking that had gone before. When the property came on the market in 2019, it was a rare opportunity to add old vines (and particularly 1938 and 1954 planted grenache) to our winemaking.” says Sam.
The remarkable property, formally known as Churinga, proved too alluring for the Barry brothers to resist and after purchasing the vineyards they set about bringing the wines and the characters of the past to life. Rather than amalgamating the newly acquired vines into the family’s existing labels, the uniqueness of the site, and the charming history of the past, have led the brothers to bottle the wines under the new Watervale Gardeners moniker in order to preserve and progress the work of those that went before them.
The brand-new Watervale Gardeners range includes breathtaking Riesling, Shiraz and Grenache and seeks to protect and preserve the vast history of this beautiful corner of the world.
“We decided to keep all blocks separate so we could start to understand the vineyard. We were immediately drawn to the elegant framework and ferrous tannins in the Grenache blocks and the firm, almost “old-school” blue-fruited nature of the Shiraz. The Riesling has a phenolic drive and spice that shows a much different expression to other Riesling vineyards we have in the area. This, along with the rich history of Watervale Gardeners who have farmed this land, lead us to give this vineyard its own brand identity.” Says Sam.
Each wine is single-vineyard and shaped by the character and depth that only mature vines can provide. The Riesling captures Clare Valley’s hallmark purity and finesse, while the Shiraz brings balanced elegance to the party. The Grenache, an uncommon highlight for the region, stands as a refined and vibrant testament to the site’s diversity. Every bottle shares a piece of the vineyard’s story, with back labels bringing to life the history of its past custodians. First brought to bottle from the 2020 harvest and released in 2025, Watervale Gardeners brings together heritage with modern, forward-thinking sensibility and this historic site could not be in better hands as the Barry family add their name to the list of ‘Gardeners’ who have helped shape the history of the Clare Valley over generations.
2023 Watervale Gardeners ‘1954 Plantings’ Riesling
This is from the place once known as the Churinga vineyard, now renamed Watervale Garden. Not huge on the packaging, but it’s what’s on the inside that counts.Green apple, lime, a salt crust, a slight smoky and stony thing too. It’s intense with firm but clean acidity, in particular I like this fine sandstone grip it offers which adds substance and character. There’s some lime leaf and lemongrass exotics, a rice-like umami flourish, and the finish has crunch and power. Something of a dynamite Riesling, given its explosive nature. Mind how you go. 95 Points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front July 2025
Bright, lifted aromas of lemon zest, gunsmoke, slate and white flowers. The palate is racy and mineral with a light-bodied mouthfeel and slight phenolic grip, showing lime leaves, fresh ginger and sea spray. Made from vines planted in 1954, bringing drive and complexity. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 95 Points. Ryan Montgomery, JamesSuckling.com
From 1954 plantings. A wonderful, vibrant riesling expression with depth of flavour and concentration writ large. A highlight, the scintillating acid profile, limey and briny, contained in juiciness of green apple, pink grapefruit and crushed rock minerality. Exceptional length and persistence, too. It’s a vivid, intense and brilliant, crystalline white wine of impeccable character. 96 Points. Mike Bennie, Wine Companion
2020 Watervale Gardeners ‘1954 Plantings’ Shiraz
This shows deeply perfumed and succulent aromas of blackberries, dark cherries, liquorice root, dried herbs, violets and mahogany. The plush, nicely midweight palate has firmly framed tannins that lead into a ferric, salty and earth-driven finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 95 Points. Ryan Montgomery, JamesSuckling.com
A mellow, succulent and well-structured red with deep flavour, dark fruit and spice aromas, fine, tightening tannin profile and a gentle sense of development coming into play. There’s dark cherry, old leather, dark chocolate, cola, woody spices and some graphite minerality as descriptors, all seamlessly woven, with an old school, good-school feel. Flavours linger well; the wine finishes with a gentle tightening and freshness. Lots of charm here, and a wine of pedigree and stately feel. 95 Points. Mike Bennie, Wine Companion
2020 Watervale Gardeners ‘1954 Plantings’ Grenache
Perfumed aromas of wild blackberries, iodine, dried herbs, dark cherries and spices. The palate is medium-bodied with a plush mouthfeel and finely tuned, grippy tannins that lead into flavours of fresh damson plums and cocoa powder. There’s a lovely depth of flavour and a mouthwatering, savoury finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 95 Points. Ryan Montgomery, JamesSuckling.com
A supple and soft, rich and toasty grenache of dark cherry fruitiness, choc-raisin elements, cinnamon and clove spice, sweet, turned earth elements and some mint and pine needle freshness in the mix. It’s deeply concentrated and rich but finishes with freshness and lift. 95 Points. Mike Bennie, Wine Companion
2020 Watervale Gardeners ‘1938 Plantings’ Grenache
Vibrant, perfumed and high-toned red fruit such as dried strawberries, wild raspberries and blood oranges as well as rose petals, ferric earth and violets. The midweight palate has finely framed tannins and a focused acidity that gives a mineral edged, juicy and mouthwatering finish. Great depth and complexity from vines planted in 1938. The first release of this wine held back four years in bottle. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 96 Points. Ryan Montgomery, JamesSuckling.com
This wine is produced from a plot of vines planted 1938. A dark, brooding, chewy and sinewy grenache of sooty spices, smoky wood notes, toasty elements amongst black cherry, cassis and black olive. Quite a firm and dry red wine here; a serious rendition of grenache. 94 Points. Mike Bennie, Wine Companion
