Guillaume Michel isn’t joking when he says he aims to make pure Chablis. The cellar here hasn’t seen an oak barrel in 55 years. There’s practically nothing doing in the winery, where Guillaume has one helper. Someone else works in the office. The rest of the team—seven people—work exclusively in the vineyard from 1st January till 31st December.
And that’s quite some vineyard. Across Chablis, the village appellation is by far the largest. Just 13% of production comes from the Premiers Crus, and a measly 1.5% is labelled as Grand Cru. Chez Louis Michel, those stats are turned on their head; Premier Cru and Grand Cru Chablis account for 70%.
In 2023, spring was wet, and July was too, bringing disease pressure that led to losses from mildew. Some of the Grand Cru areas were down by as much as 45%. The weather improved towards the end of the month, and véraison kicked off on 30th. A warm August included heat waves. The final stage of ripening took place in ideal conditions, with a relatively rapid weeklong harvest kicking off on 11th September.
“At the end, it’s a very nice vintage that shows that even in that context of a warm climate, Chablis continues to produce wines that are quite full of energy, of this minerality,” Guillaume told us. “And what’s interesting in the ’23 vintage, despite the very strong vintage effect on the wines, you can already feel the different expressions of terroir in all the wines. It shows that the terroir can also continue to produce wines with a very strong identity, even in growing conditions that are changing.”
Indeed, these exceptional vineyard holdings have produced singular expressions, full of lovely Chardonnay character and rippling with pebbly, ultra-clean saline drive.
The Wines
2023 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montmain RRP $118
The four Montmain parcels are dotted along a clay hillside, with few pebbles. This is a cool or cold climate, depending on the year, and is known to be susceptible to spring frosts. The wines of Montmain are particularly fine and balanced, with notes of citrus or white flowers in their youth, depending on the vintage. – Guillaume Michel
Michel’s 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Montmain, bottled in November 2024, derives from southeast-facing vines growing in clay-rich soils that tend to bring roundness. Wafting from the glass with aromas of acacia, green apple, lemon zest and honeysuckle, it’s medium-bodied, bright and lively, with good focus and immediate charm. 91 points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate Mar 2025
Pale lemon yellow. The bouquet has the charm of a more mature Chablis. It is not that this is evolved but it has opened out delightfully at a young age. Apples with a marine rinse. A little yellow fruit on the palate, controlled flesh and very good length. 91 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Jun 2025
2023 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Forêts RRP $118
In the Domaine’s two parcels, the bedrock is located just a few centimetres underfoot, and helps to bring an appealing minerality to the wine. The large number of the pebbles in the soil means that it offers excellent drainage. The southern vineyards bring warmer aromas to the wine, which evolve into ripe fruit aromas. – Guillaume Michel
Michel’s 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Forêts, informed by about 80 centimeters of clay topsoil above the limestone bedrock, is already expressive, delivering notes of tangerine zest, dried white flowers and spices. Medium to full-bodied, textural and enveloping, it’s vibrant and lively, with more depth and persistence than Montmain, even if it’s not as minerally this year as one might desire. 90 points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate Mar 2025
Mid lemon colour. A medicinal note to the nose, drier across the palate, all white fruit without the yellow notes of the Montmain, and with a reasonably tightly wound finish. 90 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Jun 2025
2023 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Séchets RRP $133
In the past, Séchets Premier Cru used to be blended with Vaillons, but has been vinified separately since 2010. Séchets is different from the other climates in the Vaillons valley, especially as it has more marl-like characteristics. Its aromatic richness, complexity and chiseled minerality make it a Premier Cru for cellaring, with typically Chablis features. – Guillaume Michel
The 2023 Chablis Séchets 1er Cru has more reduction on the nose than other cuvées. You can eke out scents of white clay and light mango. The palate is taut on the entry before gaining more depth on the honeyed mid-palate. Pure and refined, this has one of the most satisfying finishes. Excellent. (92–94). Neal Martin, Vinous Jun 2024
With an élevage as long as Michel’s grand cru bottlings, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Séchets delivers aromas of pear, dried flowers, orange peel and oyster shell. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied and fleshy, with a deep core of fruit, bright acidity and a long, saline finish. Like Vaillons, it derives from le court-noué-affected vines, which produce lower yields. 93 points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate Jan 2026
2023 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vieilles Vignes RRP $133
With a prime position in the heart of the Butteaux vineyards, this over 60-year-old parcel, whose yields are slowly diminishing, deserves its separate vinification and maturation and delivers wonderful wines worthy of a Grand Cru vineyard.
Kimmeridgian. Left bank. This parcel at the top of the hill is made up of silty, clay soil on the surface. It is moderately deep and very chalky. Moderately steep slope. Very well-ventilated climate. South-south-east exposure.- Guillaume Michel
As ever, bottled later than the younger-vine cuvée of Butteaux, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux Vieilles Vignes exhibits aromas of tangerine, orange oil, mirabelle plum and beeswax. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a generous core of fruit, tangy acidity and a long, saline finish. It has turned out particularly well. 93 points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate Jan 2026
If anything, the Vieilles Vignes is paler in colour than the straight Butteaux, with a very slightly more exotic nose, but still a delight. Good tension at the back, tightly wound, more marine, just a little plus in all directions over the regular. Salivating finish. 93 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Jun 2025
The 2023 Chablis Butteaux Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru comes from a single parcel of 65-year-old vines. It undergoes a year longer élevage than the regular cuvée. It has a lifted bouquet of citrus fruit, wild heather and orange rind. The palate displays good concentration and intensity. The brick finish just needs more persistency. (89–91). Neal Martin, Vinous Jun 2024
2023 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent RRP $133
The Fourchaume vineyard stretches over an uninterrupted 3 km, with the exception of an enclave on one of the Grand Cru slopes. This wine comes from this very enclave, which is known as “Vaulorent”. All the factors come together here to make a fine wine: a pure nose and a voluptuous palate with the rich aromas of butter and caramel. – Guillaume Michel
Mid lemon yellow. This comes across as more reductive initially, followed by a gorgeous wealth of fruit on the palate, a furry cashmere overcoat with some energetic fruit through the middle. 92 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Jun 2025
From a clay-rich, south-facing site, the 2023 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent, tasted from bottle, unfurls sweet aromas of yellow apple, peach and citrus oil, mingled with notes of freshly baked bread and pear. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, enveloping and gourmand, with a generous core of fruit underpinned by a racy acidity, culminating in a long, lemon-tinged finish. 92 points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate Jan 2026
The 2023 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru doesn’t quite possess the harmony and precision of the Séchets at the moment. It offers lemon rind and orange zest, but less in the way of mineralité. The palate is well balanced with a viscous, oily opening. Plenty of extract with a slice of sour lemon on the finish. Not on the level as the Séchets, as it doesn’t have the purity. Yet, this is still an impressive offering. (91–93). Neal Martin, Vinous Jun 2024
2023 Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre RRP $133
Located on the right bank of the Serein, the Grand Cru side, Montée de Tonnerre is certainly the most prestigious and sought-after of the Chablis Premier Crus. Louis Michel & Fils produces grapes on an entire slope in this location.
Kimmeridgian. Right bank, lots of marl oyster fossils, fairly sticky, shallow soil with plenty of limestone pebbles. Moderate but steady slope. Sunny and warm southwest exposure.- Guillaume Michel
Chapelot. One of the paler colours, with a much more chiselled nose. Concentrated white fruit, saline, crunchy, amazing intensity here, has avoided the sunny side up quality. Exceptional length. This should make a great bottle. (92–94). Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Jun 2024
The 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru has an intriguing bouquet with dried honey and light scents of wet clay. The palate is very well balanced with a strict opening. Quite fresh with a streak of bitter lemon that lends tension on the finish. I would afford this a couple of years in bottle. (90–92). Neal Martin, Vinous Jun 2024
2023 Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir RRP $265
Several types of soil coexist in this climate. Our Domaine’s parcel is located in the mid-valley area. A whitish and chalky limestone clay is predominant in its steepest part, while the west side has browner clay soils.
Wines made from the vines that grow here are tight, with saline notes and a wonderful creamy mouthfeel. This Grand Cru has the distinction of being accessible and generous, even in its youth.
Kimmeridgian. Strong presence of clay, fairly deep soils that are heavy in places. North-west exposure, that provides cool temperatures and sunlight in the evening. Fairly steep slopes. – Guillaume Michel
The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir has turned out very well, soaring from the glass with aromas of lime blossom, white flowers, mirabelle plum and apricot. Medium- to full-bodied, broad-shouldered and concentrated, it is laden with ripe yet vibrant acidity, culminating in a long, precise finish. 93+ points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate 2026
A clear pale colour. Restrained on the nose but suggesting class. The fruit is a little understated but there is plenty of it and it builds in intensity. The acidity is not high, so this comes across more on the fleshy side. Just a little spice to finish. 92 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Jun 2025
The 2023 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru comes from a north-facing part of the vineyard, an advantage in this season as it tends to ripen quickly. It has a reticent nose compared to the 2022 when tasted last year, a little earthier in style, more yellow fruit here, quite tightly wound. The palate is well balanced with a light entry, fresh and crisp with a touch of bitter lemon and white pepper on the finish. It just needs to loosen up a little. (90–92). Neal Martin, Vinous Jun 2024
2023 Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles RRP $265
The rare and legendary Grenouilles is the smallest Chablis Grand Cru. Our plot is located at the top of the slope. It has healthy soil, and is beautifully suited to ploughing. The wines of Grenouilles, which are well worth the wait, offer a blend of power and finesse, and are always full of surprises.
No added yeast, long fermentation using indigenous yeasts, in temperature-controlled vats. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation. Matured for at least 18 months. In stainless steel tanks, with the least possible handling. Long moderately cold stabilisation. Fining using bentonite if necessary. The wine is gently filtered once before bottling. – Guillaume Michel
The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles is a notable success, offering up aromas of peach, pear, freshly baked bread and citrus oil. Full-bodied yet less powerful than Vaulorent, it is ample and enveloping, with a rich core of fruit, concluding in a long, flavorful finish. 93 points. Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate Jan 2026
Bright clear colour. Here the sunshine works very well with the spice of the frogs. Impressive body, well handled by the almost tannic feel from this vineyard. Guillaume didn’t like this in élevage, and I can see that I did not either, but it has come through very well. 93 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Jun 2025
The 2023 Chablis Grenouilles Grand Cru takes time to open in the glass, but it is worth waiting for. Lovely touches of white chocolate and almond infuse the citrus fruit as if you would think there is some oak barrels (this happened with the 2006 in Vaudésir the last time). The palate is medium-bodied with a slight creamy mouthfeel that, again, dupes you into thinking there is some wood contact when there is none. It needs time and that creaminess will surely disappear. (91–93). Neal Martin, Vinous Jun 2024
2023 Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos RRP $265
Located halfway up the slope in the heart of the appellation, the Domaine’s vineyards benefit from southern exposure and enjoy optimum sunshine. This results in wines with great power and complexity. When the monks of Pontigny began growing the first vines in this extraordinary place they were certainly not mistaken!
No added yeast, long fermentation using indigenous yeasts, in temperature-controlled vats. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation. Matured for 18 months minimum. In stainless steel tanks, with the least possible handling. Long moderately cold stabilisation. Fining using bentonite if necessary. The wine is gently filtered once before bottling. – Guillaume Michel
The 2023 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos once again asserts itself as the most powerful and commanding wine in Michel’s portfolio this year. It unfurls from the glass with a deep bouquet of lemon confit, apricot and Mirabelle plum, interwoven with notes of freshly baked bread and beeswax. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy yet controlled, it displays considerable reserves of structuring extract that lend energy to its muscular, vinous core. Uniting amplitude with incisiveness, it culminates in a long, persistent finish. 94+ points Kristaps Karklins, Wine Advocate 2026
The 2023 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru comes from a single parcel towards the Valmur side that was vinified in a new smaller tank as mildew had reduced quantity. The nose is very harmonious and poised, perhaps even more complex than the 2022. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh with a powerful orange rind and spicy finish. It just needs more sustain and it will require a long élevage to create a sense of harmony. It will get there though. (92–94). Neal Martin, Vinous Jun 2024
