It’s hard to think of a set of wines with such a strong family likeness and so reliably turned out as those of Glaetzer. The reason is all down to their roots. They are progeny of a man who knows his Barossa motherland and métier inside out. And they are so firmly – and anciently – embedded in the Ebenezer subregion as to be the very essence of it.
“We’re indebted to the folks of yesteryear; they left their mark,” observed Campbell Mattinson in his review of the latest Glaetzer Wallace. “Amazing that you can get a red like this for roughly 20 bucks, from old vine material like this.” Indeed, it is amazing. And it goes to the heart of the Glaetzer wines.
Those who love ripe, harmonious Barossa reds – and there are many out there – don’t think twice when it comes to Glaetzer. They don’t probably ponder on the folks of yesteryear, nor on the vine age, meagre yields or oak regime. They don’t question where the concentration comes from, likewise the complexity of oak and time melted into supple black and blue fruit. They don’t even wonder at the improbable harmony achieved even with the volume cranked up. What they do see, and come back to again and again, is the way a glass of Glaetzer delivers: flavour, deep, intense and long; regionality writ large; and, equally reliably, money well spent. 
So it comes as little surprise that 2014 does it all again. Vintage conditions in Ebenezer were challenging including setbacks through frost and early summer heat spikes. Still, the fruit that was coaxed through to picking was everything it should be, and the wines – though in short supply – are floral, pure and bursting with personality.
The 2014 Anaperenna Shiraz Cabernet picked up the trophy for best Shiraz-dominant blend at the 2015 Great Australian Red competition. It was something of a nostalgic moment in the history of the awards, since the 2004 vintage of the same wine was the inaugural winner of The Great Australian Red in 2006.
Amon-Ra, the flagship Shiraz classified as “Outstanding” by Langton’s, once again shows why it’s a perennial feature – and mover – on all manner of quality wine lists the world over. This wine has averaged more than 96 points out of 100 in Wine Advocate over the past six vintages. The 2013 wine – the most recent to be reviewed by the influential magazine – maintained that record, with critic Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW praising the bold equilibrium that is the hallmark of this wine. “The palate has wonderful balance and elegance for its commendable concentration and fullness.”
Those words sum up these four distinctive, immaculately presented siblings from Glaetzer. We sometimes presume all wine lovers are forever searching for something different. But many want to slip into something familiar.
Some things don’t change, and that’s precisely as it should be.
THE WINES
2014 Glaetzer Wallace Shiraz Grenache RRP $23
Shiraz and Grenache cropped at 2.8 tonnes/hectare. Shiraz vines aged 60-80 years old; Grenache vines aged 80-110 years old. Minimal oak contact for Grenache to preserve its fruit purity. Shiraz matured for 16 months in seasoned oak hogsheads (80% French, 20% American).
Barossa Shiraz grown on 60-80 year old vines. Barossa grenache grown on 80-100 year old vines. 69/31% blend. 16 months in oak, 80% French but 20% American. Amazing that you can get a red like this for roughly 20 bucks, from old vine material like this. We’re indebted to the folks of yesteryear; they left their mark.
Red and black berries, a slip of anise, maybe some dried herbs, definitely some woody spice. You know the drill. It’s juicy and well-balanced and firm-ish to close; not too heavy and not too light; perfect for hooking into. Massaged to perfection. 91 points. Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
Bright purple. Heady, smoke- and spice-tinged aromas of dark berry liqueur, candied licorice and mocha, with a peppery quality adding urgency. Supple, broad and seamless, offering appealingly sweet blueberry and cassis flavours and a hint of vanilla. In a lush, decadent style but not at all outsized. Finishes smooth, smoky and long, with repeating spiciness and velvety tannins. These vines range from 60 to more than 110 years of age. 91 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media
2014 Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz RRP $35
100% Shiraz, cropped at 2.1 tonnes/hectare. Vines aged 35-125 years old. Fermented in 1.5- and 2-tonne open fermenters, hand-plunged two to three times daily. Maturation on lees for 16 months in new (40%) and seasoned oak hogsheads (90% French, 10% American).
Grown at Ebenezer in the northern Barossa. This is a very good release of this wine. It ramps up the flavours but nothing’s flabby, it’s all well toned and shaped, the blackberry and asphalt flavours rolling deliberately though the palate, the finish then satisfying. Robust red, done well. 92 points. Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
Bright violet colour. Pungent, spicy scents of fresh dark berries, licorice, candied violet, vanilla and smoky minerals. Lively and precise on the palate, offering fresh black and blue fruit and bitter cherry flavours complemented by a hint of peppery spices. Becomes sweeter and deeper with air with no loss of vivacity, finishing sappy and very long, with supple tannins adding shape and grip. 92 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media
2014 Glaetzer Anaperenna RRP $55
Winner 2015 Great Australian Red trophy for Best Shiraz-Dominant Blend
76% Shiraz, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon cropped at 2.5 tonnes/hectare. Shiraz vines aged between 30 and 100 years old; Cabernet vines aged between 30 and 130 years old. Fermented in 1- and 2-tonne open fermenters, hand-plunged three times daily. Maturation on lees for 16 months in 100% new oak hogsheads (92% French, 8% American). Bottled unfiltered.
Dark purple. Pungent black and blue fruits, oak spices, potpourri and woodsmoke on the highly perfumed nose. The palate displays very good clarity and energy, with tangy acidity adding lift and cut to the sweet boysenberry, violet pastille and vanilla flavours. This smooth, sappy, gently tannic blend finishes with harmonious tannins and lingering smokiness. 93 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media
2014 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra RRP $100
100% dry grown Shiraz, cropped at 2 tonnes/hectare. Vines aged 50-130 years old. Fermented in 1- and 2-tonne open fermenters, hand-plunged three times daily. Maturation on lees for 16 months in 100% new oak hogsheads (95% French, 5% American). Bottled unfiltered.
Inky purple. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes ripe blueberry, cherry-cola, incense and vanilla, with a suave floral overtone building in the glass. Stains the palate with sweet, deeply concentrated black and blue fruit and violet pastille flavours, with juicy acidity providing shape and lift. Vanilla, mocha and dark fruit liqueur notes cling on a strikingly long, expansive finish framed by supple tannins. This big boy is wearing its 15.5% alcohol gracefully and while it won’t win any prizes for delicacy, fans of the type – which includes this writer when the wine is done right – will adore it. 94 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media
