When it comes to the festive season, it’s go large or go home. With that in mind, we’ve thrown together our complete listing of magnums for you to crack open and share this summer.
We all know there are few sights more welcome in a bathtub of ice than a towering 1.5-litre bottle of Riesling, and we have the best in the world from the likes of Dönnhoff, Heymann-Löwenstein, F.X. Pichler, Frankland Estate, Gunderloch and Georg Breuer. But then Champagne en magnum is a must, as is Chablis and rosé. And then the reds – star performers on the party circuit include Beaujolais, Blaufränkisch and Spätburgunder… You’ll find them all here!
AUSTRALIA
2017 CHALMERS ROSATO MAGNUM RRP $58
In 2017 the Chalmers family once again sourced the grapes for their rosato from the highest altitude, most prized block at their Heathcote site. For the first time, though, all three of the varieties planted there made it into this unique blend. Aglianico (63%), Sagrantino (33%) and Nero d’Avola (4%) were hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed, and vinified separately. The Nero and Sagrantino parcels were fermented in stainless steel tank, and the Aglianico parcel was fermented in old French barriques. All parcels were wild fermented with no acid additions, and blended together once dry.
2016 CLOS CLARE RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $75
Almost cumin spiced top note over lemon barley, lime and lillies. Intense acidity and burst of lemon/lime flavour, firm chalky texture, a sort of lavender perfume wafting in the finish, but it’s mouth-watering in the main, and quite powerful. Good wine this vintage, though I’d say it needs a couple of years to soften. 94 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front November 2016
2011 CULLEN DIANA MADELINE MAGNUM RRP $330
A blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, 4% malbec, 3% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot, it spent 18 months in French barriques. The bouquet is attractive but doesn’t prepare you for the sheer intensity of the quite beautiful palate, with gloriously juicy redcurrant and cassis cradled by fine tannins and integrated oak. Drink to 2031. 12.5% alc; screwcap. 97 Points. James Halliday July 2013
2017 DOTT. MALVASIA ISTRIANA MAGNUM RRP $93
Dott. is the Chalmers family’s tribute to the late Dr. Rod Bonfiglioli, the passionate, eccentric viticulturist whose dogged determination and visionary foresight brought so much colour, interest and integrity to Australian wine. 2017 Malvasia Istriana is golden straw coloured and has delicate spiced apple, lemon and hay aromas with a crisp, mineral palate of fresh red apple, fine structure and pleasant acidity.
2017 DOTT. PAVANA MAGNUM RRP $93
Dott. is the Chalmers family’s tribute to the late Dr. Rod Bonfiglioli, the passionate, eccentric viticulturist whose dogged determination and visionary foresight brought so much colour, interest and integrity to Australian wine. The garnet coloured 2017 Pavana has intense fragrance of fresh wild raspberry and Darjeeling tea leaves with a light, vibrant palate of rhubarb, rosehip and geranium with subtle tannin structure around a long acid line.
2017 FRANKLAND ESTATE ISOLATION RIDGE RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $117
All the hallmarks of this site are at play with camomile and blossom, the lightness of touch on the palate with its citrus notes, some concentration and texture yet the steely freshness and acidity so pure it creates an ultra-fine and long finish. 96 points. James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion 2019
2016 MOUNT MARY CHARDONNAY MAGNUM RRP $280
Gold in colour, it’s not a shy Chardonnay by half: welcome to Flavour Country. Nectarine, white flowers, fresh mint, honey and pecans, and just a pleasant amount of struck match complexity. Glossy and glycerol, sizzled butter and nuts, yet fresh and floral, flinty elements at play, grapefruity acidity, long, rich and nutty to close, yet curiously fine throughout. Love this. Real Chardonnay. I reckon it’s pretty good drinking ’round about now, too. 96 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front September 2018
2016 MOUNT MARY TRIOLET MAGNUM RRP $238
65% sauvignon blanc, 25% semillon, 10% muscadelle. Gleaming straw-green; the combination of finesse and intensity is of the highest scale, as is the purity of the fruit expression. This is the vineyard speaking, shaping a blend of sauvignon blanc and semillon (leaving the muscadelle to one side) into a wine like no other. This is all about doing less, the hardest task for a winemaker. 97 points. James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion 2019 October, 2018
2015 MOUNT MARY TRIOLET MAGNUM RRP $218
65% sauvignon blanc, 21% semillon, 14% muscadelle, fermented separately in used oak, matured for 11 months with lees stirring. This is an uncommonly rich Triolet at this early stage, but that is all to the good, for it will mature majestically as all the vintages that preceded it have done. 96 points. James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion 2018 August, 2017
2014 MOUNT MARY TRIOLET MAGNUM RRP $213
I described last year’s release as “quality with a charming face”. This release is in the same mould. It oozes drinkability and yet it doesn’t leave sophistication behind. It’s textural too: it’s one of those whites that just feels good as it rolls through your mouth. Grapefruit is to the fore, some lemongrass too, a slip of smokiness, minor florals/rosewater, a bit of grip. It’s pristine but not clinical; it’s firm and yet it gives up plenty of flavour. It’s hard not to be both delighted and impressed. 93 points. Campbell Mattinson September 2016
2013 MOUNT MARY TRIOLET MAGNUM RRP $213
Vertical tastings suggest this blend (75/13/12% Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle) can outlive the Chardonnay, and that it needs more time to fully come out, as it were. There is a bracing zesty, almost crackling, array of flavours on the long palate, and it certainly invites the second, and the third, glass; the barrel ferment oak is easily swallowed up by the fruit. 95 points. James Halliday July 2013
2016 MOUNT MARY PINOT NOIR MAGNUM LUC $224.14
None of your sweet and sour fruit profile here, that I see in many a local Pinot Noir. Raspberry, cherry, strawberry, cedar and spice, fennel and mushrooms, roses too. Medium-bodied, at best, fresh red fruits, bright acidity, plenty of flavour, with graphite tannin keeping it long, firm and tense. Finish is perfumed, kind of autumnal, and very long with that beautiful tannin cleaning it up so nicely. It has reach, and personality. In short, it’s very good. I really like it. A lot. 96 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front September, 2018
2016 MOUNT MARY QUINTET MAGNUM LUC $385
45% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 20% cabernet franc, 6% malbec, 4% petit verdot, separately vinified and matured in French oak (35% new) for 18-22 months before blending and bottling. The ultimate Bordeaux blend, both in theory and reality. Almost butterfly wing transparency, yet compelling intensity and length, the flavours spanning cassis to blueberry to plum and blackcurrant, all with a textured backing. 97 points. James Halliday, Halliday Wine Companion 2019 October 2018
2014 MOUNT MARY QUINTET MAGNUM RRP $335
While there wasn’t a lot of wine made in the Yarra Valley in ‘14 (wind and rain during flowering), some wine of very high quality was made – witness this. Mount Mary has shown over the decades that Quintet develops superbly, and this complex dark berry-flavoured Bordeaux blend will do just that. 97 points. James Halliday July 2016
2018 NOCTURNE NEBBIOLO ROSÉ MAGNUM RRP $71
We’re extremely happy and relieved at this delicious resultant wine. The texture and acid structure are highlights in what is likely a more approachable and fruit forward release of Nocturne rosé. As always, best drunk from magnum, on a boat, wearing white…. It’s a pale salmon dream. – Alana & Julian Langworthy
FRANCE
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 741 MAGNUM RRP $300
The Cuvée No. 741, based on the 2013 vintage, is quite pretty. Complex, nuanced and multi-dimensional in feel, the 741 is beautifully layered in the glass. In this release, the Pinot Noir is especially expressive and gives the wine a measure of textural breadth that is unusual for a young 700-series Champagne. Soft contours and a host of toasty, resonant flavors give the 741 its distinctive feel. Best of all, the 741 will drink well upon release. Disgorged June 2017. Dosage is 2.5 grams per litre. 93 points. Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media July, 2018
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 740 MAGNUM RRP $297
From the 2012 harvest and five locations in Champagne. The farming is now biological/organic, the winemaking decidedly low intervention. Indeed, the wines sit on lees in barrel for their life outside bottle, unfined and unfiltered. Sulphur addition would be on the very lower side for Champagne at 20ppm added and less than 40ppm total. Effectively, as natural-leaning as Champagne gets these days. All the info is on the label too. This is a super-dooper release too.
It’s a marriage of toasty-richness and bristling freshness here. Compact in the palate with undertones of brioche, marzipan, ginger biscuit, with a coursing vein of green apply, tangy fruit character and lively oyster-shell-like minerality. The bouquet is attractive, a mesh of patisserie, honey and apple/citrus character. It pulses through the mouth with refreshment factor and light, palate sticking fruit-yeast sweetness. It’s gulpable and yet fine. It’s stunning stuff. 94 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front July 2017
2005 JACQUESSON AVIZE CHAMP CAÏN MAGNUM RRP $850
The terroir of Avize is so all-consuming that you can literally smell the violent tidal wave of surging salt minerality coming. The bouquet is a salty sea breeze, a steamy whiff of bath salts that heralds an intricately crystalline salt structure. The frothing, energetic interplay between chalk minerality and beautiful acid line is captivating, amplified by subtle barrel texture and long lees age that gently massage the cut of Avize. Magnificent freshness and coiled potential, even at a decade of age, suggest that it calls for another decade yet to fully come into its own. There are few 2005 Champagnes of which this can be said. Jacquesson has conjured one of the finest. 97 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017
2004 JACQUESSON AVIZE CHAMP CAÏN MAGNUM RRP $850
This blanc de blancs gives the impression of generosity, then quickly pulls into a chiselled and streamlined vector of crunchy pear and apple fruit with a crisp grapefruit zest finish, accented with pristine aromas of pure apple blossom and a hint of nutmeg. Deep layers of fine, salty minerality are amplified by subtle barrel and fruit structure, and the textural influence of long lees ageing. An intricately structured champagne that will require at least five years to put flesh on its tense frame. 95 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2014-2015
2005 JACQUESSON ÄY VAUZELLE TERME MAGNUM RRP $850
This tiny pocket is Jacquesson’s finest pocket of all, giving birth to a Champagne for long contemplation in large glasses and preferably not for at least five years yet. The 2005 is the vintage to drink while 2004 and 2002 mellow long in the cellar. This is a vintage driven by the structure and dry, textural grip of the season, expressed in notes of wood spice and quince. In time, fruit rises to enchanting reflections of poached strawberries, red apples and cherries, laced with ginger and exotic spice. A finely structured texture unites creamy lees age with chalk mineral depth. A rousing celebration of Aÿ Pinot Noir. 96 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017
2007 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
A powerful, deep wine, the 2007 Dizy-Corne Bautray offers notable depth to match its ample frame. Still quite fresh and vibrant for the year, the Dizy-Corne Bautray wraps around the palate with layers of expressive yellow stone fruit nuances. Although the 2007 is not a super complex wine, it is impeccably balanced and harmonious, with a sense of spherical richness that is impossible to miss. There is plenty to like, that is for sure. Disgorged November, 2015 and bottled with zero dosage. This is the only lieu-dit Champagne Jacquesson bottled in the 2007 vintage. 94 points. Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media August 2016
2005 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
Jean-Hervé has no idea why his father planted Chardonnay in Dizy, but a half a century later these old vines have tapped so deep into the terroir that the voice of the soil speaks above the tones of the fruit and the expression of the barrels. The chalk mineral impression of this cuvée is inexplicable, though irrefutable in all recent vintages, from a site no less than 2.5m under the surface, in a village unrecognised for Chardonnay of structure. Grapefruit and lemon zest are backed by the subtle almond-meal notes of long lees age, finishing structured and scaffolded with impressive energy and drive, a standout wine from a difficult season. A bottle tasted in Sydney showed more development of coffee bean, cocoa and blood orange flavours, with some bitter orange-zest grip on the finish. 96 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017
2004 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
Such is the immense tidal wave of surging, heaving salt minerality of overwhelming texture that crashes through the palate of this dizzying chardonnay that it might fool the unsuspecting with the impression that its phenolically heavy. It’s not. This is the voice of the soil over the tones of the fruit and the expression of the barrels. It’s powerful and pristine, with distinctive characters of cherry kernel, fennel, ginger, apple, lemon zest and Campari forming an intense background track to its mineral solo. It needs at least five years to calm down before daring to approach, and will likely live a lifetime. 95 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2014-2015
2002 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
This is one of the most profound chardonnays of the Vallée de la Marne, yet from a site where no one believed good chardonnay could be grown, discovered only by the Chiquets when a 1995 vin-clair stood out. The mineral impression of this wine is inexplicable, from a site with chalk no less than 2.5 metres under the surface, in a village unrecognized for chardonnay of structure. Its violent, deep, frothing, salty minerality fills the palate with immense texture, drawn out with incredible persistence by super-focused acidity. Such is its aromatic intensity that I could smell it the moment it was poured on the table before me. Wonderful layers of yellow summer fruits leap out of the glass amid nougat, brioche and almond aromas. Its mineral structure and lively acidity control this intensity on the palate, propagating a finish that does not stop. 97 points. Tyson Stelzer
1996 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF MILLÉSIME MAGNUM RRP $1,277
This is a blend of 57 percent pinot noir and 43 percent chardonnay, and this bottle was disgorged in July of 2012. Compared to Jacquesson’s 1996 Avize DT, this is generous and broad, feeling voluptuous where the other wine feels incisive and pointed. It’s honeyed and spicy, showing golden, ornate aromas of saffron, roasted nuts, dried fruit and incense, and while its acidity is firm, it doesn’t feel aggressive, making it somewhat more approachable than the Avize. It needs a great deal of time in the glass to fully emerge, revealing a subtle, layered complexity and long, harmonious length. Peter Liem, ChampagneGuide.net September 2012
=1989 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF MILLÉSIME MAGNUM RRP $1,277
Severe frosts in spring were followed by a cold snap during flowering, causing coulure and millerandage. A very hot and sunny summer brought on an early, ripe harvest of low acidity. The wines are ample, opulent and very aromatic. This comes from the Grande Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs and Vallée de l’Ardre and comprises 47% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Noir and 35% Pinot Meunier. – Jacquesson
1995 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF GRAND VIN MAGNUM RRP $979
Medium straw. Fresh and lively on the nose, with focused, finely etched flavors of bitter orange, tarragon and smoked ham. An impressively concentrated midweight, with ripe orange, smoky bacon, rose petal and yeasty bread flavors. A very intensely flavored and fresh example of the vintage; its excellent focus bodes well for cellaring. Considerably more complex than a bottle reviewed two years ago. 92 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media November 2005
NV SELEQUE SOLLESSENCE MAGNUM RRP $182
Tightly wound, bracing Champagne of velocity and intensity. A supersonic pulse of tart, green apple, citrus, faint ginger biscuit in flavours, with a perfume that echoes the same but with more volume. Texture is chalky, bubbles tight and firm, almost aggressive, but doing a good job of refreshment factor. It feels really un-evolved in a sense, but the drinkability remains and freshness and mouth-puckering freshness are the result. This is really good. 94 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front September, 2018
NV SELEQUE SOLESSENCE ROSÉ MAGNUM RRP $215
Jean-Marc Sélèque gained experience working around the world, including the Yarra Valley’s Domaine Chandon. This pale salmon wine is 45% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Meunier and 15% Pinot Noir, 40% perpetual reserve, 60% base wine ex ’15. Spice and wild strawberry fuel an elegant palate with utterly exceptional drive and presence. 95 points. James Halliday’s Top 100 Wines of 2018 November, 2018
2017 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS MAGNUM RRP $96
Honey, green apple, hay or bread dough, shells, fennel. It’s bright and juicy, good cut and tang through honey glossed texture, with crunch and orange tang on a pretty long finish. Lovely to drink, and so easy to enjoy. 92 Points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front November, 2018
2015 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1er CRU MONTÉE DE TONNERRE MAGNUM RRP $180
Distinct smell of pastis along with rockpools and sea shells, nectarine and ripe lemon. It’s full-flavoured, yet discreet, marrying flint to a subtle glycerol texture. There’s crunch and vivacity, complexity and satisfaction at every sip along the way, and a tight almost chalky finish of excellent length and carry. Wonderful. 95 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front October 2017
2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1er CRU MONTÉE DE TONNERRE MAGNUM RRP $180
Showing the purity that’s typical of Guillaume Michel’s style – oak is rarely if ever used – this superb wine comes from a single four-hectare parcel. Saline, yet showing the richness of the right bank with a stony bite and layers of flavour. 96 points. Tim Atkin MW, Gourmet Traveller WINE April 2016
2016 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES MAGNUM RRP $116
This cuvée is completely different because it’s from vines that are between 70 to 95 years old on clay and limestone. All the wines are separated during winemaking before blending. So, for 12 months all the wines are in oak ranging from new (15 to 20%) to 8 years old. Then the family blends all the barrels in stainless tanks to spend a further nine months or more.
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES MAGNUM RRP $119
(bottled in June; the vines here are 75 to 95 years old; made entirely in barriques, 20% new, then moved into stainless steel for its second year of aging): Pale straw-yellow. Riper, yellower and more exotic on the nose than the cuvée Spéciale, with aromas of apricot, honey and fresh porcini. Rich and firm on the palate, with enticing fruit flavors of peach, apricot and quince complemented by lightly saline minerality. Not a sweet or fleshy style, and nicely dry at 1.8 grams per liter of residual sugar. Finishes firm and persistent, with a strong impression of extract and brisk citrussy grip. “This wine is our ID card,” noted Palthey, adding that his grandfather was best known for this cuvée. 91 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 2016
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ LES PRÊTRES DE QUINTAINE MAGNUM RRP $206
(Palthey estimated that about 40% of these 103-year-old vines on marly soil with red clay still remain, with the rest having been replanted over the years; production here is still 25 to 30 hectoliters per hectare; done entirely in pièces, 25% new, the rest one, two and three years old; bottled two days before my visit): Bright, light yellow. Sexy aromas of yellow fruits, smoky minerality, marzipan and white truffle. Large-scaled and ripe but dry, filling the mouth without leaving any impression of weight. More large than long in the typical style of Quintaine, whose wines are known for their residual sugar. Finishes lively and gripping, with a light touch and lingering notes of fresh apricot and lemon. Needs time. Today I prefer this wine to the 2013 version, which was extremely tight when I first tasted it but is now revealing its botrytis influence. 91 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 20162
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ LE CÔTEAU DE L’EPINET MAGNUM RRP $206
(just 800 bottles made from 95-year-old vines; the same élevage and oak as the Prêtres de Quintaine): Pale yellow-gold color. Very ripe aromas of peach, apricot and smoky minerality are a bit more dynamic than those of the Prêtres de Quintaine. Unctuous on entry, then tighter in the middle palate, with very ripe stone fruit flavors accented by spicy oak. This thick but energetic wine shows a distinctly creamy quality for the vintage. Finishes with slowly mounting length and considerable power. This mid-slope climat on red clay soil with small stones in the extreme north of the appellation is one of its best sites, says Palthey, who added that the calcaire here is far under the surface. He added that his 2014s are actually lower in acidity than his 2015s. 92 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 2016
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ LES HAUTS DES MÉNARDS MAGNUM RRP $206
Bright yellow with a gold tinge. Sexy, expressive, very ripe scents of dried apricot, ripe peach, white pepper and hazelnut. Very rich, smooth, ripe and silky but youthfully unforthcoming in the middle palate. This plush wine finishes powerful and very long, with a touch of citrus peel firmness and a tannic quality I did not pick up in the other 2014s at this address. Less harmonious than the other 2014 Viré-Clessé examples but a complete wine nevertheless (like the Prêtres de Quintaine and Côteau de l’Epinet, this was bottled two days prior to my visit). 91+ points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 2016
2014 PAUL BLANCK RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $85
A seriously lovely Alsace riesling, with all the expected flavour – and unexpected elegance and lightness of foot running alongside the synergistic fusion of fruit and acidity. There are none of the phenolic hoof prints of many young Alsace rieslings, instead hints of spiced pear and camomile. Bargain, and will glide through the next 20 years. Drink to 2034; 12.5% alc. 94 points. James Halliday August 2015
2015 DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1e r CRU COMBE D’ORVEAU MAGNUM RRP $660
A cool, pure and elegant nose combines aromas of essence of red cherry, lilac, violet, lavender and plenty of spice components. The sense of refinement continues on the sleek, mineral-driven and wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that deliver fine persistence on the firm, complex, classy and well-balanced finale This is lovely juice. 90-92 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound January 2017
2013 DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1e r CRU COMBE D’ORVEAU MAGNUM RRP $561
The 2013 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d’Orveau has a tightly-wound bouquet: cranberry and pomegranate, sous-bois and light rose-petals scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasing, fleshy entry. There is good body and presence here: sappy red berry fruit and a generous dash of spice toward the grippy finish. This is very fine. 89-91 points. Neal Martin, Wine Advocate
2015 DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME MAZOYÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU MAGNUM RRP $1,070
The 2015 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense bouquet with lifted redcurrant, raspberry, spice box and quite a noticeable marine influence coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin. This is very focused, almost athletic in terms of tension and somehow “nimble” in the mouth, no heaviness here (a great attribute in such a warm growing season). This is one of the best Mazoyères-Chambertin that I have tasted. 94-96 points Neal Martin, Wine Advocate December 2016
2016 PIRON BEAUJOLAIS MORGON CÔTE DU PY MAGNUM RRP $92
This young wine has great potential. It shows weight and a powerful tannic structure as well as bold, ripe black fruits. Coming from the top sector of Morgon, the wine has concentration and richness. It needs to age, and won’t be ready before 2019. 94 points. Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast January 2018
2013 PIRON BEAUJOLAIS MORGON CÔTE DU PY MAGNUM RRP $92
Deep ruby. Vibrant, mineral-tinged cherry and floral pastille aromas are complicated by suggestions of licorice, game and peppery spices. Sappy and energetic in style, offering black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that are given lift and spine by juicy acidity. Finishes with very good intensity and focus, leaving smoky mineral and cherry liqueur notes behind. 91 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media July 2016
2016 LABRUYÈRE COEUR DE TERROIRS MAGNUM RRP $107
Barrel sample. Mid crimson. Peppery and dark-fruited with a light rocky/mineral note. Dry and savoury on the palate, a lovely refined darkness but not lacking fruit. Classic Moulin-à-Vent with tannic finesse and firmness, well balanced for ageing. Dry, chalky finish. Elegant. 16.5/20. Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January, 2018
2016 LABRUYÈRE CHAMP DE COUR MAGNUM RRP $120
The peculiarity of this south-east facing granitic plot is the presence of pebbles under a thick layer of dense clay, which gives the wine a bold character with pronounced minerality. 100% Gamay with an average age of 50 years planted to 10,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are harvested manually in 25kg crates before passing through a double sorting table. The fermentation of 100% destemmed grapes takes place in a single concrete vat, in order to isolate the parcel and to express the unique characteristics of its terroir. The entire system is thermo-regulated. The wine is aged in used 600-litre demi-muids for 13 months. Slight filtration and no fining.
2016 LABRUYÈRE LE CARQUELIN MAGNUM RRP $156
Barrel sample. Deep crimson. Not very expressive now, just dark and rocky and invitingly so. Tantalising. Savoury and rocky dark fruit, has fruit to balance but not to shout at you. This is really elegant and the opposite of showy. Super-refined. 17/20. Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January, 2018
2016 LABRUYÈRE LES CLOS DU MOULIN ÁVENT MAGNUM RRP $222
Monopole. Barrel sample. Deep cherry red. Smells very different from Le Carquelin, more meaty but still that dark, rocky minerality. Bone dry, chalky. Refined texture, almost chalky but more like layers of paper. A long, dark, savoury finish. Needs time. 17++ / 20. Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January, 2018
GERMANY
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER PRÄLAT RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $412
The 2015 Erdener Prälat Riesling Alte Reben GG is very clear and intense on the nose, where tropical fruit flavors intertwine with smoky red slate, herbal and lemon aromas. This Riesling is full-bodied, rich and lush, but fresh and highly finessed on the palate. This is a very complex and tightly woven, pure and salty, but nevertheless aromatic Riesling; it has concentrated yellow plum and stone fruit aromas. The finish is gorgeous for intellectual wine lovers, as well as for hedonists. The Prälat, though located straight under Loosen’s old vines Treppchen plot and closer to the Mosel river, seems even purer and finer than the Treppchen GG, which is more lush and creamy, showing more tannins. This is an amazing Riesling and the finest dry Prälat I have probably ever tasted. It is ready to drink, but folks, don’t be foolish! Keep it for years and drink it as many times as possible. Just one fuder produced, so less than 1,000 liters. 96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2015 DR LOOSEN BERNKASTELER LAY RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
The 2015er Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett was made with fruit harvested at a modest 82° Oechsle. It offers a gorgeous nose of fresh herbs, white peach and spices. The wine dances on the palate, with good presence and elegance. The finish is airy and vibrant. This is a deliciously well-made Kabinett 2025-2035. 91 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2014 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $107
Fresh apple dominates in this delicate, buoyant, understated interpretation of its site and genre. Apple blossom and heliotrope waft across a juicy, subtly creamy palate, and the lingering, refreshing, discreetly sweet finish features an appropriate undertone of wet stone. 90 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2016
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $107
From iron-rich, red slate soils, the 2015 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett opens with a clear and aromatic, slightly flinty bouquet with tropical fruit and ginger aromas. Round, lush and piquant, this is an intense and well-concentrated Kabinett; it has fine acidity, serious terroir expression and an elegant and persistent finish that reveals good grip and salty purity. This is a very stimulating and complex 8% alcohol Kabinett from old vines on steep terraces. 90 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2014 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $107
A lovely nose mingles anise, sassafras, and lime, which then inform a delicate, juicy, polished palate. Like its Wehlener Sonnenuhr counterpart, this is a model of understatement, lift and judicious sweetness, and like the corresponding Ürziger Würzgarten, its refreshingly lingering finish incorporates the invigorating cut of lime peel. None of these Loosen Kabinetts is especially concentrated but they take delicious advantage of the relatively generous clusters and modest must weights of vintage 2014 while having scrupulously eliminated any hint of rot or acescence. 90 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $107
The 2013 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett has a quite powerful bouquet with discreet but ripe fruit aromas of ripe and cooked apples. Rich and almost opulent on the palate but not as zesty and buoyant as the Kabinetts from Wehlen or Erden, this is rather a 7% alcohol Spätlese than a Kabinett. The acidity is fine and lingering and the development of this juicy Würzgarten will be slower than in the more bright and charming wines from Erden and Wehlen. 90 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2013 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Plush for the vintage, with open-textured green pear and peach flavors. Offers a minerally finish, with some ripe kiwifruit and savory spice notes. Drink now through 2035. 91 points. Kim Marcus, Wine Spectator February 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
This offers a gorgeous elegant feel of yellow peach, white minerals and earthy herbs. The wine is nicely playful and vibrant on the palate as more white minerals and juicy yellow fruits come through towards the airy and elegant finish. This proves light, airy and very hard to resist. It only needs a decade to fully integrate its youthful exuberance. 2025-2045. 93 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2014 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Very rich and intense on the nose, with floral and tropical fruit aromas opens the 2014 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (#24). This is a nobly textured, concentrated yet very fine and delicate Riesling with a perfect balance of fruit, minerals and acidity. Absolutely delicious and provided with a long and stimulatingly salty finish. 92 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Elegant aromas of cherry, apple blossom and hazelnut. Sweet and creamy on the palate, tinged with herb, nut and vanilla flavors. Offers good balance and a nice underlying sense of slate. Good length. 88 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media March 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Fresh strawberry and lime laced with cress offer a bracing aromatic and palate impression, and bright, infectious juiciness carries into an invigoratingly zesty and mouthwateringly salt-tinged finish. As befits Riesling of Mosel origins, wet stone runs like a cantus firmus through this entire delightful performance, whose supportive sweetness knows when to back off in the interest of clarity and refreshment. 91 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media June 2017
2014 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
From clusters with the tiniest berries and loosest, smallest clusters among Loosen’s wealth of old, single-post-trained Würzgarten vines, this delivers site-typical strawberries in lightly confitured form, mingled with quince jelly and laced with mint and candied lime peel. A glossy palate and significant sweetness reinforce the confitured impression, which is complemented by liquid lily perfume. Yet there is still a refreshing stock of primary juiciness to the lusciously lingering finish. 92 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
The 2013 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese is purer and more precise and spicy on the nose than the Kabinett. It is a serious, lusciously sweet and juicy, well-balanced highlight of the 2013 vintage, showing a piquant mineral finish and a stimulating grip on the palate. Lovely to drink today, but you can also keep it for more than two decades. 92 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2013 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $234
The 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese has a rich and ripe but also cool and smoky nose of crushed grey slate plates and a dash of lime juice. The wine is round and sweet and very elegant on the palate, quite luscious and mellow but still delicate and well balanced whereas the finish is sensual and exuberant with ripe fruit flavors. A wine made for at least 3 or 4 decades. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The 2015 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese is sourced in the whole Treppchen, where Loosen owns 4 or 4.5 hectares. The wine opens clear, fresh and piquant on the nose, and reveals a juicy intensity and slate-like freshness on the palate. It is very stimulating, though not as deep and rich as the corresponding Sonnenuhr Auslese. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2016
2014 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The 2014 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese is even more open and refined on the clear, coolish and herbal-flavoured flavoured nose with its subtle slate and black olive aromas. Very sweet and intense on the palate, with a pure background and a piquant mineral acidity, this concentrated and elegant Riesling needs another 7-10 years to reach its first maturity. 93+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The pure and flinty-piquant slate aromas intermixed with bright tropical fruit flavors such as pineapples but also floral and herbal notes lead the 2013 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese to an absolutely clear, delicious, delicate and filigreed, well balanced terroir ambassador of great finesse and elegance. This is the most subtle and refined Auslese of the 2013 vintage at Dr. Loosen. 95 points Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The 2015 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese is super clear, fresh and precise on the nose, which reveals flint and stony, as well as lemony fruit aromas. On the palate, this is a refreshing, piquant and vibrant Auslese made from perfectly selected grapes with 50% of botrytis. The wine is enormously vital and crisp, showing a very intense and long finish with tropical fruit aromas. Great aging potential and highly digestible. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2014 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $234
Pure and slate-like on the nose, with some flinty flavors and a lot of terroir expression and stones starts the 2014 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese. Pretty, piquant and racy on the palate, this is a compact and minerally-structured Auslese that tastes drier than the Sonnenuhr Auslese; even so, the residual sweetness is a bit higher here. It is the deep, piquant and mineral finish with its saltiness and raciness that makes this a terroir-driven, stimulating Riesling. Very promising. 93+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER PRÄLAT RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM LUC RRP $396
Picked at 145°Oechsle, the 2015 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule has a clear, fresh, mineral, grapefruit and lemon bouquet. On the palate, this is a rich, sweet and elegant TBA with an enormously vital acidity and stimulatingly fresh fruit. This amazing Auslese is a very digestible Riesling provided with great aging potential. 96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2013 DR LOOSEN ERDENER PRÄLAT RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $346
Rich golden yellow. Unctuous aromas of papaya, dried apricot and fresh fig waft over botrytis notes of nutmeg and cinnamon. Succulent honey-glazed peach fruit is kept fresh by robust, bright acidity and a dash of slate. Polished and high-toned on the long, satisfying finish. 92 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media March 2015
2015 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN SCHIEFERTERRASSEN RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $117
Quite honeyed, toasty, but still with that scintillating dart of searing acidity to keep you sweating on your forehead with the whoosh of freshness. It shows scents of rockmelon, ripe stone fruits, ripe apple, honey, toast. The palate is soft, spreads on its gentle gloss of honey on fruit character, and yeah, that acidity crackles beneath. Delicious, simply. 91 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front February 2018
2016 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN LAUBACH RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $230
From a slate soil with 10% chalk, the 2016 Riesling Uhlen L ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ shows licorice, flinty and bright fruit aromas on the nose. Juicy, piquant and tensioned on the palate, this is an intense and complex Riesling with lush and intense fruit. The finish is long and promising. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2018
2015 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $363
Tasted from the barrel and still dusty in its ripe golden color, the 2015 Riesling Uhlen R ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ (which is always bottled late) combines super ripe, rich and intense tropical fruit aromas (pineapples) with the spicy flavors of red (iron-rich) slate. The palate, however, is stunningly pure and finessed, highly elegant and almost light whereas the finish is very long, full of salt, grip and tension. A great promise! 95-97 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2017
2014 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
Served from the decanter as a barrel sample, the 2014 Riesling Uhlen R ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ from the Roth Lay plot offers an intensely fruity and lovely flinty/smoky bouquet, with mango flavors and very fine slate and herbal aromas that indicate great purity and intensity. Full-bodied, rich and round on the palate, with a lot of finesse and tension, this is on its way to develop into a beauty that combines contradictory attributes: richness and concentration with purity, density with finesse, and power with elegance. The finish is highly promising. This is one of the Mosel wines of 2014 you shouldn’t miss! 95-97 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
Tasted from the barrel, the 2013 Winningen Uhlen R(oth Lay) Grosse Lage Riesling trocken shows an elderflower and Almdudler nose (an Austrian, sweetened carbonated beverage flavoured with herbs) along with ripe Riesling and apple fruit as well as herbal slate flavors. There is a racy-mineral attack on the full-bodied and creamy/juicy palate and also the long and complex finish is marked by the iron-rich terroir of the Uhlen’s Roth Lay parcel. The wine is dense, elegant and firmly structured and the finish is tension-filled, expressive and enormously persistent. Again the Uhlen R is Reinhard Löwenstein’s most impressive dry Riesling rivalled in 2013 only by the stunning Laubach. 93+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate May 2015
2011 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
Pale gold. A little more muted but better behaved than the Von Blauem. Fun. Almonds. 17/20. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com May 2014
2016 GEORG BREUER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $326
The 2016 Rheingau Riesling Rüdesheim Berg Schlossberg has a very clear, deep, pure and flinty bouquet of bright fruit and crushed stone aromas. This is absolutely fascinating in its purity, finesse and complex elegance. Round and terribly lush on the palate, with very fine tannins and ripe, crystalline acidity, this is a highly elegant, delicate and complex Riesling that is enormously filigreed yet tensioned and long. A goddess of the greatest finesse and elegance. The sweetness, body and minerality are in perfect balance. 95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December, 2017
2014 DÖNNHOFF ESTATE RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $96
Gleaming straw-green; elegance personified, delicate yet with laser precision; grapefruit and apple flow through the length of the palate, strung along a strand of bright acidity; excellent length. Will grow and grow on its perfect balance. Drink to 2034; 11.5% alc. 95 points. James Halliday August 2015
2015 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $825
Dönnhoff first dry Riesling from their monopole Brücke (bridge) site in many years with a much more limited production than the other GGs. Tart blackcurrant and grapefruit notes dominate the nose suggesting that this is going to be quite a cool and tart wine, and indeed it is. Enormous drive and depth on the palate lead into a whiplash finish. 96 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com September, 2016
2015 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $239
The 2015 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese opens with an aristocratic bouquet of coolish, flinty slate and citrus perfume along with concentrated Riesling flavors. There is great complexity and expression here! On the palate, this wine is highly elegant and its seamless, silky texture is like that of the Dellchen GG. Very salty, full of finesse and tension on the palate – this is a great, perfectly balanced Spätlese. There is no other Riesling in the Nahe that has such nobly aristocratic attitude. It’s one of the finest Spätlese Rieslings you can buy from this vintage. 95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December 2016
2013 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $239
Smoky notes, some wet stone, freshly zested mixed citrus. Juicy and crisp texture to taste, but also has an inward concentration matched to a bristle of zingy acidity. Quite a unique flavour spectrum, complex, layered, with a tingle through the finish. Pretty epic in its drive and energy, finding supreme interest and balance. Wicked. 95 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front February 2015
2011 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $239
A riveting, high-toned aromatic diversity announces the Donnhoff 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese with themes that inform an at once creamy yet subtly tannic and vibrant palate: quince, pear, lychee, nut oils, fusel oils, distilled herbal essences, brown spices, and smoky black tea. This behaves as if a bit of Traminer had been blended-in. The rich nuttiness and glaze of honey as well as sheer succulence of fruit make for a more opulent performance than that of Brucke, but to say that this is less energetic or dynamic would be misleading. Its incessant interplay of elements is utterly kaleidoscopic – just more calmly harmonious than the Spatlese from next door. Like that sibling, this deserves to be followed for a good quarter-century. 96 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2013 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $346
The 2013 Riesling Auslese Niederhauser Hermannshohle is clear and piquant on the pure nose displaying lime and grapefruit aromas in a very subtle way. Really sweet and piquant on the palate, this is a thrillingly salty and persistently minerally wine of great expression and concentration (120 Oe!) and length – an Auslese monument of great expression and joy. It is enormously piquant. 96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate January 2015
2013 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $330
The 2013 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese has a very clear and precise bouquet of slightly cooked apples and lemons. Piquant on the palate this is a very bright, firmly structured and salty wine with a great and complex length. It is precise and very juicy but always piquant and salty. A great and stimulating Auslese. 94+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate January 2015
2011 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $319
The Donnhoff 2011 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese gold capsule represents a selection of partly-botrytized bunches pulled out before what remained was packed under film to await the first hard frost. Mango and papaya, quince and peach deliver an impression both tropical and northerly, with musky animal and smoky black tea scents adding intrigue, while alkaline, saline, and otherwise maritime nuances lend saliva-inducing counterpoint to this elixir’s sheer richness of fruit as well as its palate’s opulence, oily texture, and honeyed glaze. There is a glowing, soothing yet stimulating harmony to the finish, even if not the animation or spellbinding interactivity of this year’s Donnhoff Spatlesen. I would plan to follow it over the next 20-25 years. Donnhoff doesn’t disagree with me that this is 2011 first and Brucke second. “You can’t heighten the typicity of the site by means of botrytis,” he adds. “That reached its apex already in the Spatlese.” 93 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2016 A. CHRISTMANN IDIG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $314
The delicious paradox of this great dry riesling is the way it is built on an imposing scale, but is very pure and super straight without any hint of heaviness, even on the very long powerful finish. You’ll need to be patient for at least a couple of years if you want to experience all the subtle nuances, but the ripe mirabelle note is already delightful. At least thirty years of ageing potential. 96 Points. Stuart Pigott, jamesuckling.com December 2017
2013 A. CHRISTMANN IDIG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $297
Some toasty notes, drizzle of honey, punch of ripe green apple. It’s a beautiful bouquet, evocative of complex, layered Riesling. Hedonistic flavours of green apple, honey, brioche, but with crackling acidity, lively chalky fringes, a focus, but also generosity and drive. Slate and lime characters. Driven and delicious. 97 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front March 2015
2015 GUNDERLOCH ROTHENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING RRP $280
Can the 2015 Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling trocken GG top the excellent Nackenheim “1er Cru”? Wow, it can! This wine is very clear, precise and very deep on the stony and smoky—or rather flinty—nose. There are ripe stone fruit aromas that come along as more discreet and spicy, with crushed slate notes. On the palate, the minerals buffer the lively acidity and give an almost mealy, round and silky texture. This is a noble wine with a stimulatingly salty and vibrating finish. If you don’t want to miss one of the greatest wines made from the red slope in 2015, then this is surely a wine to buy. 94-95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2016 GUNDERLOCH ROTHENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $280
The Rothenberg never fails to fascinate with its intriguing combination of grapefruit and spice. Plenty of patience with the harvest has been rewarded with a successful alliance of sweet citrus fruit including mandarin, juicy acidity and generous body, but the icing on the cake, as always, is that fine dusting of sweet spices which gets the palate tingling. 17.5/20. Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com April 2017
2016 WITTMANN MORSTEIN GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $305
Be prepared! This is the most closed of the 2016 Wittmann Grosses Gewächs, but it has extraordinary finesse. Then the fundamental power climbs out of the abyss and pushes the incredibly fine, chalky finish out towards infinity. Please wait until at least 2018, because this has enormous potential. No hurry! You can even hang on through 2050. 98 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com December 2017
2012 HUBER MALTERDINGER PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $124
Good colour; Huber grows and makes pinot of world class; the bouquet is fragrant and very expressive, hinting at the cherry and plum fruit that has a juicy succulence as it rolls over the back-palate and into the finish and aftertaste. 95 points. James Halliday September 2015
2013 HUBER MALTERDINGER PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $124
Spicy and sappy, smoky cherry and plum with oak well in the background. Light to medium bodied, spicy and undergrowthy, with crunch of acidity and a fine dusting of tannin. A bit minerally and has precision, without being too strict. Finish is good too. Likely better with a couple of years on it too, though attractive now. 92 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front May, 2016
2013 HUBER ALTE REBEN PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $206
Huber’s 2013 Spätburgunder Alte Reben comes from a selection of vines that average 40 years of age and are planted on shell limestone soils, including the crus. The wine displays a deep, spicy, clear and slightly flinty cherry and red berry bouquet, which has remarkable finesse and precision. Medium to full-bodied, juicy, fresh and refined, this is a beautifully elegant and balanced Pinot Noir. There are present yet silky tannins and a long, clear, fresh and aromatic finish. This is an excellent little cru with grip and stimulating authenticity. 91 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2013 HUBER PINOT NOIR BIENENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
From more than 60-year-old German clones, the 2013 Bienenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs displays an intense nose of ripe dark fruit, and some peppery and other spicy aromas. Full-bodied, round and full of finesse, grip and tension, this is a fleshy, well-concentrated and refreshing Pinot Noir. This drinks lovely today, but can age over 6-8 years. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2012 HUBER PINOT NOIR BIENENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
As you ascend the steps of the quality ladder of Huber, the quality of each wine seems to be incapable of being overtaken, but it is. Here there is a perfect union between the varietal expression and a silken mosaic of tannins, oak the hidden backing of the mosaic. Simply beautiful. 97 points. James Halliday September 2015
2011 HUBER PINOT NOIR BIENENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $277
Medium to deep ruby with purple tinge. The Bienenberg really is one of those rare wines that can conjure up images of a sunny autumn afternoon with its delightful fragrance of bonfire smoke, rosehip hedgerows and raspberry bushes. The juicy acidity of cherries and redcurrants demonstrates that Huber has resisted the temptation to pick his grapes too late, and equal restraint is shown by the lack of any strongly roasted notes – a gentle spicy sandalwood notion the only concession to oak. A lively and supple Grosses Gewächs for the uncomplicated appreciation of fine Spätburgunder. 18/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com August 2013
2013 HUBER PINOT NOIR SOMMERHALDE GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
The Sommerhalde charms with a seductive perfume of exotic spices, orchard blossom and fine cigar smoke. On the palate things get a little more intense with lashings of fleshy plums and juicy morello cherries making the early running, only to be reined in by flavours of dark chocolate, dust from the grindstone, roasted hazelnuts and a subtle mix of herbs and spices. Still youthful, but already very elegant. 18/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com September 2015
2013 HUBER PINOT NOIR SCHLOSSBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $346
None of Huber’s Grosse Gewächse are short of fruit, but although the Schlossberg exhibits its fair fragrance of plums and blackberries, they merely act in support of a darker and deeper minerally expression. Shaved pencil, graphite and forest undergrowth represent a most intriguing and almost mysterious composition of aromas. On the palate the fruit of dark berries insists on its juicy ways, supported by fine spices, but then a cool stony notion takes command. Compact structure, full body and firm grip demand to be given time to agree on harmony. 18/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com September 2015
2014 HUBER PINOT NOIR WILDENSTEIN RESERVE GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $743
From an iron-rich, shell limestone soil, the 2014 Malterdinger Bienenberg Spätburgunder GG Wildenstein offers a subtle, very refined and coolish bouquet. It is aristocratic, fresh and elegant, with red fruits, vegetative flavors (nettles) and some dashes of lime juice; it also has floral and very discreet oak aromas. Just perfect in its distinguished flavors. Round, fresh and elegant on the generous, but elegant palate, this has nice grip, but some harsher and mealy oak tannins in the finish. This is a promising wine with tension, freshness, grip and refreshing lemon flavors in the finish. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
AUSTRIA
2013 EMMERICH KNOLL VINOTHEKFÜLLUNG RIESLING SMARAGD MAGNUM RRP $383
Marine breeze, high-toned mintiness and nuances of peach and nectarine that then lusciously inform the full, faintly oily palate. Pithy pit piquancy serves for welcome counterpoint and grapefruit for zesty and vivacious juiciness. For all of its almost honeyed richness, this wine’s finishing penetration is downright rapier-like, displaying an alluring interchange with bright citrus, glowingly cyanic fruit pit, and cooling green herbal notes. 93 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media February 2017
2011 F.X. PICHLER KELLERBERG GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD MAGNUM RRP $266
Lithe, rich and effusively minerally, this offers some saline notes to the lively mix of red peach, wild cherry and white plum flavors. Interesting elements of slate and dried herbs add to the complexity, revealing accents of lemon that linger on the broad-brushed finish. 16.5/20 Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com February 2013
2011 F.X. PICHLER KELLERBERG RIESLING SMARAGD MAGNUM LUC RRP $298
Very rich and perfumed – almost crosses into Torrontés/Gewürztraminer territory. Very much a florist’s wine. Good but not classical. 16.5/20 Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com February 2013
2016 F.X. PICHLER KELLERBERG RIESLING SMARAGD MAGNUM RRP $355
An amazingly concentrated dry riesling that somehow manages to be extraordinarily light-footed. There’s a super-wide spectrum of aromas from parsley through lemon grass, with ripe white peach, mandarin orange and white chocolate in between. The breathtaking balance is more important than all of this, extending right through the incredibly long, lingering finish. Drink any time during the next thirty years! 100 points. JamesSuckling, jamessuckling.com October, 2017
2015 F.X. PICHLER ‘M’ RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $313
Reliance on late-harvested Loibenberg fruit resulted in a bottling that finished with too much residual sugar to qualify as Smaragd. (More thoroughly shriveled Loibenberg fruit resulted in a B.A. and T.B.A.) Lusciously ripe peach is tinged with banana and mingled with almond extract and liquid heliotrope perfume. Fortunately, a measure of grapefruit is not only pungently fragrant but also brightly juicy and piquantly zesty, helping – along with piquancy of peach kernel – to offset this bottling’s enveloping richness and sheer surfeit of ripe, sugar-reinforced fruit. The impressively sustained finish is, however, not at all overtly sweet. 91-92 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media February 2017
2013 F.X. PICHLER ‘M’ RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $313
This vintage’s “M” originates solely in the Loibenberg and, following a common practice in the Wachau, takes the designation Reserve because of having finished fermenting with too much residual sugar (in this case, 16 grams) to qualify as Smaragd. A further consequence is its weighing in at only a bit more than 13% alcohol. This was raised in a once-used 2,500-liter cask so there is still some resin and spice from the oak, but, like the wine’s subtle sweetness, that element manages to integrate successfully into honey and cocoa powder notes that inflect luscious flavors of peach, pineapple, pink grapefruit and mango. Surprisingly fruit-dominated, this expansive and creamily textured Riesling elixir acquires welcome counterpoint and invigoration thanks to piquancy of peach kernel and tart twang of pineapple core and grapefruit rind. It finishes with compelling, indeed amazing, length, if not—for now, at least—significant complexity of an interactive sort. 94 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2015
2011 F.X. PICHLER ‘M’ RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $313
2013 F.X. PICHLER ‘M’ GRÜNER VELTLINER MAGNUM RRP $313
Lucas Pichler’s monumental 2013 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M opens with an ultra-ripe, concentrated and slightly speck-y yet still precise and even mineral-scented bouquet on the nose. Very rich and intense on the palate, this elegant, full-bodied, densely textured and powerful Veltliner from late-harvested grapes reveals an aromatic and juicy fruit core along with a stunningly vibrant acidity that gives structure, length and a lifting as well as lingering salinity and piquancy. Maracuya and other tropical fruit flavors dominate the aromatic aftertaste. Although I have no experience with matured samples of this Austrian icon Veltliner, I suspect it has an aging potential of 5-10 years and should be cellared at least for another 2 or 3 years. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2015
2012 F.X. PICHLER UNENDLICH RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $766
Representing roughly 75% Kellerberg, 20% Hollerin and 5% Steinertal, and weighing-in at 14% alcohol, the Pichler 2012 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich projects lusciously ripe, brown-spiced peach mingled with both the sweet marzipan-like and the bitterly cyanic sides of almond, as well as with pistachio extract, smoky black tea, and a sweet-saline, iodine-tinged, salivary gland-milking savor akin to lobster shell reduction. Living up to its name while managing to convey animation as well as soothing richness, this reveals a subtly different emphasis with each compulsive sip and wave of finishing flavor. A beautiful tribute to its vintage and cepage, this should reward attention through at least 2028. 97 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate April 2014
2011 F.X. PICHLER UNENDLICH RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $636
The varieties of nature are never-ending, but each vineyard resembles a microcosm that reflects life and history – also those of our family. The idea to make the most of a terroir and varietal had already been alive long before the first “Unendlich” (the German word for never-ending). With the 1998 vintage, that vision for the first time became true. It reflects our passion to craft a wine that is an experience for all senses – a total work of art.
The label for this exceptional offering was inspired by the stage setting created by Karl Friedrich Schinkel for Mozart’s opera “The Magic Flute”. It represents a starry sky on blue ground – a symbol of cosmic infiniteness. An allegoric way to describe a wine with a “never-ending” finish.
2015 PITTNAUER DOGMA ST LAURENT MAGNUM RRP $99
Liquid cherry jam spiked with cinnamon, cumin spice. Spot on. Cool and refreshing red wine of perky acidity, amaro sweet-sour, pomegranate crunch to close. It’s vibrant, vital, light on, so smashable. It’s not cerebral, nor is it trying to be, it invites you in instead and says ‘lay on the couch with your shoes on’. Welcoming freshness in red wine. Hello summer. 91 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front August 2016
2016 PITTNAUER PITT NAT MAGNUM RRP $117
The rosé comes from parcels with red wine grapes in conversion to biodynamic viticulture, mainly Syrah and Merlot. The team picked the grapes by hand in early September, on the first day of harvest 2016. The grapes were pressed as whole bunches and the juice was settled overnight (about ten hours) with no additives. The juice was racked in the morning after pressing. Spontaneous fermentation started two days after pressing. From then on they did a daily tasting and checking of the density to get information about the progress of fermentation.
Pitt Nat Rosé 2016 was bottled at a density between 1008 and 1005 and ended its fermentation in bottle. Gerhard did a warm disgorging by hand in December, to get rid of the main lees and to avoid foaming over after opening the bottles. He used the same wine for topping. To show that the product is Pet-Nat, not traditional sparkling wine, the Pittnauers used crown seal as the closure again and left some of the lees inside the bottles. This light cloudiness helps to preserve the freshness of that wine, because it is preservative free.
2015 MORIC BURGENLAND BLAUFRÄNKISCH MAGNUM RRP $91
Wet earth and smoke, blueberry and ripe cherry, Dutch liquorice, plenty of spice too. Medium bodied, mineral water feel to the acidity (perhaps makes sense when/if you taste it, but work with me…), purple fruit like mulberry and boysenberry, a pleasing burr of fleshy tannin lending grip, dry and savoury to close, with that pippy kind of just-ripe berry acidity to kick it along. It’s a wine with a pulse, and heaps of character. 93 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front June 2017
2011 MORIC BURGENLAND BLAUFRÄNKISCH MAGNUM RRP $102
Dark garnet with violet highlights. Herbal cherry, plum, brown spices and an earthy nuance on the nose. Ripe redcurrant flavors are supported by refreshing acidity. Well balanced on the finish. 88 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media December 2013