Domaine André Bonhomme has proved a blessing on multiple fronts. Let’s start with the one that really counts: This certified-organic family estate, the first domaine of Viré-Clessé – arguably the finest appellation of the Mâconnais – makes beltingly fine Chardonnay that is a respectful, enthralling expression of its myriad terroirs.
The indirect – but significant – advantages of these wines are that they are available at a time when great white burgundy options are scarce and spiralling in cost. And it’s great white burgundy we’re talking about right here: A tremendous Chardonnay tradition, with grapes grown on old vines (more than 100 years for one of these cuvées) on slopes of clay and limestone. There’s minerality allied to vitality of acid line. The Chardonnay vine here ripens to reveal yellow fruits and exotic fruit but sweetness is tempered, and shape tapered, by Aurélien Palthey’s minimal use of new oak (25% is the most for any cuvée) and eschewal of bâtonnage.
The value here – as well as the definition, drinkability and quality – is quite breathtaking. We’re really pleased to see this family’s star rise here in Australia.
2016 André Bonhomme Viré-Clessé Pierres Blanches RRP $43
The estate’s classic Viré-Clessé is from vines ranging from 10 to 45 years old. The main component of the blend comes from 30-year-old vines planted on the summit of the hillside on the rocks, with many little white stones in the soil, hence “pierres blanches”. It is made in stainless steel, to emphasise fruit and minerality.
(bottled three weeks prior to my October visit; also made in stainless steel; the main portion of this cuvée is from vines between 10 and 45 years of age on thin soil on the top of the hillside; Palthey noted that he had to break the limestone to plant these vines): Light-medium yellow. Distinctly smokier on the nose than the Mâcon-Villages Vieilles Vignes, offering aromas of yellow fruits and minerals. A very rich, savoury wine with an almost dusty texture and captivating pungent minerality. Finishes very long and dry, with a touch of bitterness. This youthfully austere wine will show spice and toasted bread notes six or seven years from now but it will also make delicious early drinking for its fresh fruit and adamant minerality. 90 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media November 2017
2016 André Bonhomme Viré-Clessé Vieilles Vignes RRP $53
375ml RRP $32
MAGNUM RRP $116
This cuvée is completely different because it’s from vines that are between 70 to 95 years old on clay and limestone. All the wines are separated during winemaking before blending. So, for 12 months all the wines are in oak ranging from new (15 to 20%) to 8 years old. Then the family blends all the barrels in stainless tanks to spend a further nine months or more.
2015 André Bonhomme Viré-Clessé Les Prêtres de Quintaine RRP $81
Bonhomme’s Prêtres de Quintaine is a cuvée produced in tiny quantities (about 2,000 bottles). This powerful blend is very refined coming from very old vines of close to 100 years of age situated on the Quintaine lieu-dit, which sits at the point where the communes of Viré and Clessé meet. Quintaine is a climat in the heart of the appellation which is unique on account of its soils (limestone from the Middle Jurassic Bathonian period and marl from the Upper Jurassic Oxfordian period) and also from its east/south east exposure. The name of the cuvée comes from the fact the parcel is planted on the slope facing the Quintaine chapel. The wine is fermented and aged for 24 months in oak casks. The result is a distinguished, minerally wine with beautiful layers which will take some years to fully fan out.
(bottled three weeks ago; from 100+-year-old vines that produced 30 hectolitres per hectare in 2015; 25% new oak; from marl and white clay soil): Medium yellow. Captivating nose offers yellow and white stone fruits, quince, white pepper, spices, white flowers, menthol and smoky minerality. Densely packed and fairly full but conveys a lighter touch and sharper definition than the Vieilles Vignes bottling, with an impression of higher acidity. But this salty, chewy wine is quite backward and tight. Palthey notes that Quintaine normally produces a rounder style of wine, while Viré is more powerful, but this 2015 hardly lacks for structure or strength. 92 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media November 2017
2015 André Bonhomme Viré-Clessé Le Côteau de l’Epinet RRP $91
L’Epinet is a unique and exceptional climat located at the extreme north of Viré-Clessé, opposite Bonhomme’s Quintaine parcel. Planted in 1923, the old roots have been able to express themselves in a microcuvée of around 800 bottles since 2010. The soil here consists of reddish clay with stony outcrops which bring finesse, beautiful ripeness and great length in the mouth. These characters get to shine thanks to a slow, natural, long vinification over 24 months in oak casks. The wines from this climat have a more marked minerality and depth than Quintaine, allied sometimes to a certain austerity in their youth.
(bottled in mid-September; from 95-year-old vines in the northern part of Viré; made in the same age and toast of barrels as the Prêtres de Quintaine and Hauts de Ménard; the only difference is the soil, which here is rich in red clay and limestone): Medium yellow. Very expressive aromas of peach, smoke and iodine; more refined and more minerally than the Quintaine. Then seriously smooth and fine-grained on the palate, displaying perfectly integrated acidity and enticing lemony firmness. Quite dry and classic, with a fresh, spreading finish that conveys rare minty lift for this very ripe year. Palthey noted that his Quintaine wine is normally easy to drink young while this one is typically longer-lived. 93 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media November 2017
2015 André Bonhomme Hommage à Gisèle RRP $135
Fruit for the blend comes from Chardonnay parcels planted in the 1930s and earlier. The cuvée is made in homage to Gisèle Bonhomme, mother and grandmother of the current winemaking generation. She spent more than 60 years working with these vines to create the heritage and class that you can taste today. Vinification and élevage unfurl naturally over 24 months in oak casks. The wine is bottled unfiltered.
(from a blend of vines planted before and during the 1930s; 16% new oak; bottled three weeks before my visit to the estate): Medium yellow with gold highlights. Ripe, nutty aromas of yellow fruits, hazelnut and marzipan; the extra year of aging has brought greater elegance. Then surprisingly tight, backward and penetrating in the mid-palate, with firm acidity framing and extending the flavors of spices, mint and white pepper (this is actually carrying 4.1 grams per litre of acidity, about the same as the other Bonhomme 2015s). This salty, tactile, very long wine still needs to absorb more of its oak element but should gain in complexity for at least a decade. 93 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media November 2017