A ballerina, a wrestler and a mountain climber walk into a bar… It could easily be a joke, and with jovial raconteur Erni Loosen telling it, it would definitely make you laugh. But actually, Erni is describing how he sees the Grosses Gewächs wines grown on Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Ürziger Würzgarten, and Erdener Treppchen.
The first, with its classic Devonian blue slate, is the dancer: elegance, finesse, delicate acidity. Würzgarten, with its rare red volcanics, is the wrestler: muscular, rocky, rounded. And then, the oxidised red slate of Treppchen, the mountain climber: sleek but powerful, with racy, mineral-driven acidity.
Erni tells us that 2024 is a year where these vineyard signatures are expressed “nice and clear”. And, as always, the methodology helps; these three wines are raised identically. 100% healthy grapes from ungrafted, 100+-year-old vines, fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured for at least 12 months on their lees in topped-up, 3,000-litre foudres.
2024 was a weird year in Germany; frost stole the headlines, and it was wet, but the stats will also tell you it was really warm—and yet most characterisations of the wines point to relatively cool classicism. It even has Erni scratching his head. He is many things, but “I’m not a scientist”, he admits, looking at the confounding juxtaposition of climatic data and taste bud feedback.
“With some wines, I’m really astonished by how beautiful the acidity is,” he says. “And, for me, a perfect ripeness with the right amount of acidity, not too high, not too low, just the amount which we’re looking for for dry wines.”
Erni knows these vineyards inside out; the ballerina, wrestler and mountain climber are practically offspring. And we at CellarHand have been assessing and appreciating these GGs for years and years. Yet, they still give us a jolt that is equal parts surprise and recognition.
“So, overall an absolutely gorgeous vintage,” says Erni. “I mean, astonishing, you know? We all have been tasting and thought, ‘Wow!’” Now, it’s your turn to be wowed by these ’24 GGs.
THE WINES
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2024 Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $107
Each year, this wine remains one of the most graceful and refined of Erni’s GG offerings upon release. From ungrafted vines in the Laychen (central part) and Sandpichter (near Zeltingen) lieux-dits, fermented with ambient yeasts, and aged in oak for 12 months.
At this early stage, the wine is slightly more compact than previous vintages, making it even more approachable right now. However, the inner depth and delicate, lace-like fruit suggest that although delicious just now, a long future lies in wait. It’s shaping up to be one of the standout wines of the year, even at this early juncture!
The white peach and spring blossom aromas pull you into this delicious dry wine that’s at once crisp and elegant, with a touch of slatey darkness on the medium-bodied palate that creates exciting tension. Long, cool finish. Drink from release. 94 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs, from ancient, ungrafted vines, has subtle savor. It shimmers with lemon and stone on the nose. The palate is citric, slaty and the picture of brightness. The 2024 is understated but profoundly lemony, zesty and so linear. It is svelte but incisive. (Dry) 93-95 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous Aug 2025
2024 Dr Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $107
From ungrafted vines in the prime Urglück, Maxberg, and Layenhaus sectors, fermented with ambient yeasts and aged in oak for 12 months. Year after year, the Würzgarten wears its heart on its sleeve, and the 2024 vintage does so with pride. This year’s wine is as expressive as ever, showcasing the site’s unique character.
Very spicy, just as the name of this vineyard site promises. Terrific tension and complexity on the medium-bodied palate. For this amount of power it’s remarkable how cool the wine remains. Very long, complete finish. Drink from release. 95 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Ürziger Würzgarten GG Alte Reben is a subtle, playful Riesling that captivates with its delicate, elegant nose, clear fruit and fine savoriness. Very salty and delicate on the palate, with juicy fruit and crystal-clear acidity, this is possibly Loosen’s finest grand cru of the vintage. Tasted as a sample at the Vorpremiere VDP.Grosses Gewächs in Wiesbaden, August 2025. 94-95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate Nov 2025
A subtle, playful Riesling that captivates with its delicate, elegant nose, clear fruit and fine savoriness.
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
2024 Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $107
From very old ungrafted vines in the Onnerts and Herzlay sectors (situated just above and next to the Prälat) and fermented with ambient yeasts and aged in oak for 12 months.
Erdener Treppchen is perennially the more reserved of the trio of GG’s we present each year, demanding patience and attention. Whilst Sonnenuhr is habitually super charming, and Würzgarten is expressive and upright, Treppchen tends to be more earnest, taking time to reveal its stripes.
The 2024 Dr. Loosen Riesling Mosel Erdener Treppchen GG Alte Reben has a striking nose of sliced fennel and fennel seeds. Compact and crisp, this remarkable GG has tons of structure and very good concentration. It needs some time to emerge from its youth. Best after 2026. 95 points. Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Riesling Erdener Treppchen Alte Reben Grosses Gewächs mixes red apple peel and savor with ripe citrus. The palate tingles with the zestiness of tangerine and salty flavor. A certain lightness is beautifully bedded on smooth, dense creaminess and svelteness. The 2024 is an understated but elegant Treppchen. (Dry) 92-94 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous Aug 2025
