This Baron of the Barossa is local nobility but it’s the land that rules him, not the other way around. Ben Glaetzer’s realm is the Ebenezer sub-district at the valley’s northern tip. It’s unique dirt where vines aged up to 130 years old yield as little as 2 tonnes of grapes per hectare. They’ve well and truly earned their tribute, and Ben pays it in full, year after year.
Ben’s 2015 offering is a generous, characterful and impeccably turned out bunch with that striking family likeness. Full-flavoured, multi-layered and intense yet elegant, stylish and finely balanced – these are the succulent fruits of this earth.
The vineyards enjoyed above average winter rain in 2014 followed by warm spring temperatures. This in turn meant healthy vines with significant early bud growth. What came next were mild temperatures in December and January, before a good, freshening dose of January rain. Thus the vines were set up perfectly for the ripening period. Harvest started early on Valentine’s Day but the last pick took place on 15th April – about the normal end date. The general theme is wines of deep, vibrant colours with savoury tannins and rich, seductive flavours.
Two wines from the 2015 range have already been released and are slipping down with time-honoured ease. Wallace’s bringing together of old-vine Shiraz, Grenache and ludicrous value is “tasty and well balanced” according to Campbell Mattinson. His Wine Front colleague, Mike Bennie, is meanwhile beguiled by “that old black magic of the Barossa” conjured up by Bishop.
Now it’s time for the flagships. The 2015 Anaperenna is a worthy follow-up to last year’s trophy-winner for best Shiraz-dominant blend at the Great Australian Red competition. Then Amon-Ra, the great Shiraz classified as “Outstanding” by Langton’s, once again shows why it’s a perennial feature – and mover – on all manner of quality wine lists the world over. This wine has averaged more than 96 points out of 100 in Wine Advocate over the past seven vintages. The 2014 wine – the most recent to be reviewed by the influential magazine – maintained that record, with critic Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW calling it “a great contender for wine of the vintage”.
And so the ritual continues with the 2015s. They greet you in their unmistakable Ebenezer dialect, folding you in that sincere, soft-hearted embrace. It’s a tribe that welcomes any sucker for a damned good red.
THE WINES
2015 Glaetzer Wallace Shiraz Grenache RRP $23
A blend of 78% Shiraz and 22% Grenache from 50- to 80-year-old Shiraz vines and Grenache plantings of between 50 and 110 years of age. Yields are 3.5 tonnes per hectare. Old-vine Barossa Grenache has a liveliness and structure that does not benefit from oak maturation, so oak contact was minimised for the Grenache component to preserve the purity and character of the fruit. The Shiraz was matured for 16 months in 2- and 3-year-old oak hogshead barrels (80% French and 20% American).
In the glass it’s medium to deep garnet, with a flash of purple on the rim. It has an enticing nose of dark plum, raspberry and lavender with hints of anise and ground spice. Black fruits prevail in the mouth with touches of pepper, blackcurrant and strawberry. Firm, savoury yet rounded tannins balance with brightness and lift.
It’s from the Ebenezer – what a great name/word – sub-region of the Barossa Valley and quality-wise it’s always there or thereabouts. So too this release. It’s not spectacular but it’s tasty and well balanced. It works/it drinks well. It tastes of ripe plum, raspberry, earth and dried spice and it keeps a good, firm, controlled shape as it progresses through your mouth. 90 points. Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front November 2016
2015 Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz RRP $36
100% Shiraz, cropped at 3 tonnes per hectare. Vines aged 35-125 years old. Fermented in 1.5- and 2-tonne open fermenters, hand-plunged two to three times daily. Extended maceration was employed to enable good tannin development, so the wine is soft and approachable early. Maturation on lees for 16 months in new (40%) and 2- to 3-year-old oak hogsheads (90% French, 10% American).
This is soft, ripe, bold shiraz. It doesn’t drown the sense but the volume is on loud. That old black magic of Barossa dark fruits, sweet spice, cedary-tobacco oak in the bouquet. Comfort in the slip-on feel of rich, forest berry sweetness to taste, a dusting of cinnamon-clove wood spice, decent length, though the finish does have a touch of a lemony-salty bite. That being said, it does Barossa well. Full flavoured, neat and tidy, easy to drink in the style. 90 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front November 2016
2014 Glaetzer Anaperenna RRP $55
A blend of 82% Shiraz and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. The Shiraz vines are aged between 30 and 100 years old, and the Cabernet between 30 and 130. Yields are 2.5 tonnes per hectare.
Fermented in 1- and 2-tonne open fermenters, hand plunged 3 times daily. Matured for 16 months in 100% new oak hogshead barrels (92% French and 8% American) and matured on lees to maintain fruit profile and animation.
Glaetzer Anaperenna is a seamless fusion of these two classic varieties. Voluptuous, opulent and yet refined, with a very long and satisfying finish. Vibrant purple in appearance, with a pronounced nose of sweet herbs, cherry and cassis. It has a mouth-filling palate with superb freshness and silky, linear tannins.
2014 Glaetzer Shiraz Amon-Ra RRP $100
100% Shiraz from vines aged between 50 and 130 years old and yielding 2 tonnes per hectare. Fermented in 1- and 2-tonne open fermenters, hand plunged 3 times daily. Matured for 16 months in 100% new oak hogshead barrels (95% French and 5% American) and left on lees to maintain fruit profile and animation. Bottled unfiltered to ensure minimal intervention with the wine’s natural characteristics.
The wine is deep purple, almost black. It’s highly perfumed with dried spice, espresso, plum and blackberry on the nose. The palate has awesome balance with tremendous depth.