What follows is a compilation of magnums that CellarHand has in stock ready for the festive season. It’s long – tall, if you will, and contains some outstanding stuff from the listed producers.
For a less unwieldy means of viewing this, feel free to contact us for a PDF of the offer.
AUSTRALIA
CHALMERS Heathcote
CLOS CLARE Clare Valley
CULLEN Margaret River
DOTT. Heathcote
FRANKLAND ESTATE Great Southern
MOUNT MARY Yarra Valley
NOCTURNE Margaret River
WANTIRNA ESTATE Yarra Valley
FRANCE
JACQUESSON Champagne
LOUIS MICHEL Chablis
ANDRÉ BONHOMME Mâconnais
OSTERTAG Alsace
PAUL BLANCK Alsace
TAUPENOT-MERME Burgundy
DOMINIQUE PIRON Beaujolais
GERMANY
DR LOOSEN Mosel
HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN Mosel
GEORG BREUER Rheingau
DÖNNHOFF Nahe
A. CHRISTMANN Pfalz
WITTMANN Rheinhessen
HUBER Baden
AUSTRIA
EMMERICH KNOLL Wachau
F.X. PICHLER Wachau
PITTNAUER Burgenland
MORIC Burgenland
AUSTRALIA
2017 CHALMERS ROSATO MAGNUM RRP $58
In 2017 the Chalmers family once again sourced the grapes for their rosato from the highest altitude, most prized block at their Heathcote site. For the first time, though, all three of the varieties planted there made it into this unique blend. Aglianico (63%), Sagrantino (33%) and Nero d’Avola (4%) were hand-picked, whole bunch-pressed, and vinified separately. The Nero and Sagrantino parcels were fermented in stainless steel tank, and the Aglianico parcel was fermented in old French barriques. All parcels were wild fermented with no acid additions, and blended together once dry.
2015 CLOS CLARE RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $75
One small, five-acre corner of a Riesling vineyard, in Watervale, was sectioned off 30 years ago to help the Barry family fund the purchase of some truly hallowed ground. The Florita was the greater vineyard and the tiny corner was named clos Clare by its new owner, artist and the designer of its eye-catching label, Ian Sanders. In 2007, the Barrys bought this little vineyard back but wisely kept the brands separate. Today, this incomparable wine is made by Sam Barry (Jim Barry’s grandson) and it is all about excitement – from the tender yet racy nose to the pellucid, glassy palate and beyond to a breakneck, high-drama finish. I have followed this wine for just short of twenty years and it has never failed to move me. The 2015 shows rare Riesling sophistication and no matter when or where you drink this wine you will recognise its unique signature scent and peerless poise. Matthew Jukes, 100 Best Australian Wines June 2016
2009 CULLEN KEVIN JOHN CHARDONNAY MAGNUM RRP $383
The flavours aren’t flashy or obvious but the first sip made me lean back in the chair and whisper Wow. It’s hard to describe why, though the wine’s piercing length is the main suspect. There are flavours of mineral and grapefruit, ripe pear and tropical fruit. There’s some creamy oak to be enjoyed too. But all these flavours feel refined and controlled. It’s a quiet but immensely confident wine. There’s a lot of lemony, spicy push through the finish. And it has both a sunniness and a seriousness. It is, undeniably, an outstanding chardonnay. 96 points. Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front July 2011
2011 CULLEN DIANA MADELINE MAGNUM RRP $330
A blend of 80% cabernet sauvignon, 12% merlot, 4% malbec, 3% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot, it spent 18 months in French barriques. The bouquet is attractive but doesn’t prepare you for the sheer intensity of the quite beautiful palate, with gloriously juicy redcurrant and cassis cradled by fine tannins and integrated oak. Drink to 2031. 12.5% alc; screwcap. 97 Points. James Halliday July 2013
2010 CULLEN DIANA MADELINE MAGNUM RRP $330
A 77/10/6/4/3% blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc. Medium-bodied and perfectly balanced, its array of blackcurrant, redcurrant, earth and spice fruit flavours are clearly varietal. Effortless grace, sure to develop beautifully over the next 20-30 years. 96 points. James Halliday August 2012
2009 CULLEN DIANA MADELINE MAGNUM RRP $373
A 77/10/6/4/3% blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, malbec and cabernet franc. Medium-bodied and perfectly balanced, its array of blackcurrant, redcurrant, earth and spice fruit flavours are clearly varietal. Effortless grace, sure to develop beautifully over the next 20-30 years. 96 points. James Halliday August 2012
2007 CULLEN DIANA MADELINE MAGNUM RRP $373
The 2007 offers seamless integration of blackcurrant fruit, earthy richness and cedary oak. It has a lovely texture, dense, complex flavour and lightly puckering tannins. Ralph Kyte-Powell August 2009
2017 DOTT. MALVASIA ISTRIANA MAGNUM RRP $93
Dott. is the Chalmers family’s tribute to the late Dr. Rod Bonfiglioli, the passionate, eccentric viticulturist whose dogged determination and visionary foresight brought so much colour, interest and integrity to Australian wine. 2017 Malvasia Istriana is golden straw coloured and has delicate spiced apple, lemon and hay aromas with a crisp, mineral palate of fresh red apple, fine structure and pleasant acidity.
2017 DOTT. PAVANA MAGNUM RRP $93
Dott. is the Chalmers family’s tribute to the late Dr. Rod Bonfiglioli, the passionate, eccentric viticulturist whose dogged determination and visionary foresight brought so much colour, interest and integrity to Australian wine. The garnet coloured 2017 Pavana has intense fragrance of fresh wild raspberry and Darjeeling tea leaves with a light, vibrant palate of rhubarb, rosehip and geranium with subtle tannin structure around a long acid line.
2017 DOTT. SCHIOPPETTINO MAGNUM RRP $93
Dott. is the Chalmers family’s tribute to the late Dr. Rod Bonfiglioli, the passionate, eccentric viticulturist whose dogged determination and visionary foresight brought so much colour, interest and integrity to Australian wine. The 2017 Schioppettino is bursting with white pepper and Dutch speculaas spice aromas with a hint of jasmine and woodsy notes. The medium bodied palate reiterates the anise, cinnamon and cardamom spices with cedar oil and Davidson plum flavours supported.
2006 FRANKLAND ESTATE RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $128
The most expressive bouquet, highly floral and lime/citrus accented; the palate follows along the same track, with lingering lime/citrus fruit; has excellent structure. This was the one which started the terroir search. 95 points. James Halliday March 2007
2014 MOUNT MARY TRIOLET MAGNUM RRP $213
I described last year’s release as “quality with a charming face”. This release is in the same mould. It oozes drinkability and yet it doesn’t leave sophistication behind. It’s textural too: it’s one of those whites that just feels good as it rolls through your mouth. Grapefruit is to the fore, some lemongrass too, a slip of smokiness, minor florals/rosewater, a bit of grip. It’s pristine but not clinical; it’s firm and yet it gives up plenty of flavour. It’s hard not to be both delighted and impressed. 93 points. Campbell Mattinson September 2016
2013 MOUNT MARY TRIOLET MAGNUM RRP $213
Vertical tastings suggest this blend (75/13/12% Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Muscadelle) can outlive the Chardonnay, and that it needs more time to fully come out, as it were. There is a bracing zesty, almost crackling, array of flavours on the long palate, and it certainly invites the second, and the third, glass; the barrel ferment oak is easily swallowed up by the fruit. 95 points. James Halliday July 2013
2012 MOUNT MARY TRIOLET MAGNUM RRP $213
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle, barrel-fermented in used French oak, and likewise matured in used oak. Shines brightly in the context of the vintage, with vibrant lemony fruit, crisp acidity and a long, cleansing and satisfying finish. Will become more complex with age in bottle, but that can be bypassed without committing vinous sacrilege. 96 points. James Halliday June 2014
2012 MOUNT MARY CHARDONNAY MAGNUM RRO $231.50
Pale, brilliant quartz-green; the bouquet and palate reveal a wine of ultimate refinement, with laser-like clarity and precision of its flavours; while barrel-fermented, it is the fruit that drives the very long palate; the flavours span white- fleshed stone fruits, a touch of cashew, finishing with grapefruity acidity. 13.5% alc; 96 points. James Halliday March 2014
2013 MOUNT MARY PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $426
This was a great pinot vintage, and everything about this patrician pinot reflects this, and a great deal more. The colour is deep and bright, the bouquet with enough different aromas to cause the beagle to sit by the glass and refuse to move on, the palate with more of the same, no single fruit variety dominant, multi-spice waiting its turn, and the texture and structure of Grand Cru status. Get in the queue to buy this, don’t worry about the price. 98 points. James Halliday July 2015
2012 MOUNT MARY PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $426
Bright, clear crimson-purple; reflects the special qualities of the site, the age of the vines (40-plus years) and the great vintage; the flowery, red-berried bouquet leads into an exquisitely flavoured and structured palate. A great pinot noir. 97 points. James Halliday March 2014
2010 MOUNT MARY PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $426
Beautiful limpid crimson; a fragrant, perfumed bouquet of red fruits leads into a glorious palate that effortlessly caresses the mouth with its display of red fruits in a silken web in no way dependant on oak, just the finest tannins. 97 points. James Halliday August 2012
2014 MOUNT MARY QUINTET MAGNUM RRP $335
While there wasn’t a lot of wine made in the Yarra Valley in ‘14 (wind and rain during flowering), some wine of very high quality was made – witness this. Mount Mary has shown over the decades that Quintet develops superbly, and this complex dark berry-flavoured Bordeaux blend will do just that. 97 points. James Halliday July 2016
2013 MOUNT MARY QUINTET MAGNUM RRP $335
Bright, clear colour; the fruit-filled, fragrant bouquet is followed by a classic Mount Mary palate: medium-bodied, and with a certain transparency akin to an orchestra with different instruments, the very essence thereof; near the flute are red fruits, the violin the black fruits, the bassoon tannins – all very different, but all in harmony, the sum of the parts greater than the whole. 96 points. James Halliday July 2015
2012 MOUNT MARY QUINTET MAGNUM RRP $337
A 45/30/15/5/5% blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot and malbec. Bright crimson; the bouquet swarms with red and black fruits and quality oak; the medium-bodied palate is supremely elegant yet intense, with cassis and redcurrant fruit; of course there is tannin and French oak, but these are largely passive observers. 97 points. James Halliday March 2014
2017 NOCTURNE NEBBIOLO ROSÉ MAGNUM RRP $71
The fruit comes from a single site, the Lentondelle Vineyard in the Carbanup sub-region of Margaret River. It’s a flat, warm site with fertile, red sandy soils. The grapes were hand harvested on 3rd April. After chilling, the fruit was whole bunch-pressed directly to old oak for fermentation. The juice was fractionated into free-run and pressings but ultimately all of the fractions were used in the final blend. Fermentation was wild and no additions were made to this wine at all. After 10 weeks in oak unsulphured on gross lees, the wine was emptied from barrel, settled, filtered, sulphured and bottled.
2001 WANTIRNA AMELIA MAGNUM RRP $305
Very good structure and mouthfeel; abundant black and red fruits flow evenly. James Halliday March, 2004
1998 WANTIRNA AMELIA MAGNUM RRP $305
Medium red-purple; clean, sweet, redcurrant fruit and subtle oak on the bouquet followed by a quite delicious palate, with ripe cassis, redcurrant and mulberry fruit supported by long, fine tannins. James Halliday February, 2001
FRANCE
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 740 MAGNUM RRP $297
From the 2012 harvest and five locations in Champagne. The farming is now biological/organic, the winemaking decidedly low intervention. Indeed, the wines sit on lees in barrel for their life outside bottle, unfined and unfiltered. Sulphur addition would be on the very lower side for Champagne at 20ppm added and less than 40ppm total. Effectively, as natural-leaning as Champagne gets these days. All the info is on the label too. This is a super-dooper release too.
It’s a marriage of toasty-richness and bristling freshness here. Compact in the palate with undertones of brioche, marzipan, ginger biscuit, with a coursing vein of green apply, tangy fruit character and lively oyster-shell-like minerality. The bouquet is attractive, a mesh of patisserie, honey and apple/citrus character. It pulses through the mouth with refreshment factor and light, palate sticking fruit-yeast sweetness. It’s gulpable and yet fine. It’s stunning stuff. 94 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front July 2017
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 738 MAGNUM RRP $429
As ever, it’s coiled and tense on release, will benefit from a few more years to flesh out, and will blossom magnificently over the coming decade. Chardonnay takes the lead in impressive focus of crunchy lemon and grapefruit, opening into crunchy red apple and the subtle spice of barrel fermentation. More recent tastings have shown generous suggestions of golden fruit cake and fruit mince pies. Skilfully managed barrel work spins a beautifully woven texture without oxidation or oak character, building a fine, creamy mouthfeel that amplifies salty minerality. A well-crafted and characterful wine of driving structure, charged with excellent acid line, finishing even, dry and long. 94 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2015-2016
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 737 MAGNUM RRP $429
The varietal composition of Jacquesson’s non-vintage blend changes significantly according to the conditions of the base year: this one, based on 2009, is made up of 43 percent chardonnay, 30 percent meunier and 27 percent pinot noir, with reserve wines accounting for 30 percent of the total. It certainly reflects its base year in its round, generous depth, feeling spicy and rich on the palate. Its flavors are notably opulent, showing creamy notes of stone fruits, apple and exotic citrus accented by hints of honey and vanilla, yet they’re firmly anchored by fresh acidity, feeling focused, lively and dry. The extra brut dosage of 3.5 g/l also helps to keep this wine firmly tethered, giving it length and shape. Peter Liem www.champagneguide.net.au
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 736 MAGNUM RRP $429
Based on vintage 2008 with 2007 and 2006 (totaling a third) in supporting roles, and 53% Chardonnay; 29% Pinot; 18% Meunier, the Jacquesson NV Extra Brut Cuvee 736 delivers a captivating performance in which prominent acidity, bone-dryness and underlying firmness that in lesser hands or from lesser material would come off as spare and austere, here instead blossom into an irresistibly mouthwatering wealth of scents of flavors. Lemon, grapefruit and white peach tinged with their pits and with pungent yeastiness are further allied with hickory nut bittersweetness, freshly milled cornmeal, mint, chalk, and brine both on the pungent nose and vibrant, gripping palate. Expansive yet productively tense and consummately refreshing, this finishes with cheek-pinching, salivary gland-milking intensity. It should prove rewarding to follow over at least the next 3-5 years, as well as from any subsequent disgorgements. 93 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate November 2013
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 735 MAGNUM RRP $429
The NV Brut Cuvee No. 735 caresses the palate from start to finish. Subtle and layered, the 735 is laced with dried pears, flowers and spices, all of which come together in an attractive, mid-weight style with considerable early appeal. I don’t see the 735 improving much in bottle, but it is absolutely delicious today. The 735 is based on the 2007 vintage, with 28% Reserve wines. The blend is 47% Chardonnay, 33% Pinot Noir and 20% Pinot Meunier. Dosage was 3.5 grams per liter. This bottle was disgorged in October 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. 91 points. Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate October 2012
NV JACQUESSON CUVÉE 734MAGNUM RRP $429
The NV Brut Cuvee No 734 is an absolutely beautiful bottle of wine. Rich and expansive on the palate, the Brut Cuvee No 734 flows onto the palate with expressive fruit, showing wonderful richness and depth. The aromatics and minerality of the Chardonnay play off the richness of the Pinot and Meunier with remarkable grace. The Brut Cuvee No 734 is 54% Chardonnay, 26% Pinot Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir, all from Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards in the Vallee de la Marne and Cote des Blancs. The principal vintage is 2006 and constitutes 73% of the final blend, with the rest of the blend coming from the estate’s reserve wines. Dosage was 5 grams per liter. This bottle was disgorged in the 1st quarter, 2010. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. 91 points. Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate December 2010
NV JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF 733 MAGNUM RRP $479
Jacquesson presented a pre-release offer of its first DT before anyone had tasted it – and the entire 16,000-bottle production sold out in one month. The phenolic texture and grip of 2005 make for a more firmly structured cuvée that is evolving more quickly than other 700 series releases. Crunchy grapefruit, lemon zest and pear definition is upheld amid layers of brioche, butterscotch, mixed spice and subtle tertiary notes of wood smoke. A wine of vitality on release, it has quickly evolved into developed characters of burnt orange, bitter almonds, fruit mince spice and wood spice, with a long, dry finish of hazelnut skin bitterness. 93 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017
2005 JACQUESSON AVIZE CHAMP CAÏN MAGNUM RRP $850
The terroir of Avize is so all-consuming that you can literally smell the violent tidal wave of surging salt minerality coming. The bouquet is a salty sea breeze, a steamy whiff of bath salts that heralds an intricately crystalline salt structure. The frothing, energetic interplay between chalk minerality and beautiful acid line is captivating, amplified by subtle barrel texture and long lees age that gently massage the cut of Avize. Magnificent freshness and coiled potential, even at a decade of age, suggest that it calls for another decade yet to fully come into its own. There are few 2005 Champagnes of which this can be said. Jacquesson has conjured one of the finest. 97 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017
2004 JACQUESSON AVIZE CHAMP CAÏN MAGNUM RRP $850
This blanc de blancs gives the impression of generosity, then quickly pulls into a chiselled and streamlined vector of crunchy pear and apple fruit with a crisp grapefruit zest finish, accented with pristine aromas of pure apple blossom and a hint of nutmeg. Deep layers of fine, salty minerality are amplified by subtle barrel and fruit structure, and the textural influence of long lees ageing. An intricately structured champagne that will require at least five years to put flesh on its tense frame. 95 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2014-2015
2002 JACQUESSON AVIZE CHAMP CAÏN MAGNUM RRP $850
Nuances of exotic spice weave seamlessly amid white peach and fig, with notes of vanilla and nougat. A beautifully gauged hint of flinty reduction gives an air of sophistication to tight grapefruit and lemon aromas. Chalk minerality is soft, subtle and understated, in a graceful and elegant style of prolonged persistence and exacting poise. Signature Avize. 96 points. Tyson Stelzer
2005 JACQUESSON ÄY VAUZELLE TERME MAGNUM RRP $850
This tiny pocket is Jacquesson’s finest pocket of all, giving birth to a Champagne for long contemplation in large glasses and preferably not for at least five years yet. The 2005 is the vintage to drink while 2004 and 2002 mellow long in the cellar. This is a vintage driven by the structure and dry, textural grip of the season, expressed in notes of wood spice and quince. In time, fruit rises to enchanting reflections of poached strawberries, red apples and cherries, laced with ginger and exotic spice. A finely structured texture unites creamy lees age with chalk mineral depth. A rousing celebration of Aÿ Pinot Noir. 96 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017
2007 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
A powerful, deep wine, the 2007 Dizy-Corne Bautray offers notable depth to match its ample frame. Still quite fresh and vibrant for the year, the Dizy-Corne Bautray wraps around the palate with layers of expressive yellow stone fruit nuances. Although the 2007 is not a super complex wine, it is impeccably balanced and harmonious, with a sense of spherical richness that is impossible to miss. There is plenty to like, that is for sure. Disgorged November, 2015 and bottled with zero dosage. This is the only lieu-dit Champagne Jacquesson bottled in the 2007 vintage. 94 points. Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media August 2016
2005 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
Jean-Hervé has no idea why his father planted Chardonnay in Dizy, but a half a century later these old vines have tapped so deep into the terroir that the voice of the soil speaks above the tones of the fruit and the expression of the barrels. The chalk mineral impression of this cuvée is inexplicable, though irrefutable in all recent vintages, from a site no less than 2.5m under the surface, in a village unrecognised for Chardonnay of structure. Grapefruit and lemon zest are backed by the subtle almond-meal notes of long lees age, finishing structured and scaffolded with impressive energy and drive, a standout wine from a difficult season. A bottle tasted in Sydney showed more development of coffee bean, cocoa and blood orange flavours, with some bitter orange-zest grip on the finish. 96 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2016-2017
2004 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
Such is the immense tidal wave of surging, heaving salt minerality of overwhelming texture that crashes through the palate of this dizzying chardonnay that it might fool the unsuspecting with the impression that its phenolically heavy. It’s not. This is the voice of the soil over the tones of the fruit and the expression of the barrels. It’s powerful and pristine, with distinctive characters of cherry kernel, fennel, ginger, apple, lemon zest and Campari forming an intense background track to its mineral solo. It needs at least five years to calm down before daring to approach, and will likely live a lifetime. 95 points. Tyson Stelzer, The Champagne Guide 2014-2015
2002 JACQUESSON DIZY CORNE BAUTRAY MAGNUM RRP $850
This is one of the most profound chardonnays of the Vallée de la Marne, yet from a site where no one believed good chardonnay could be grown, discovered only by the Chiquets when a 1995 vin-clair stood out. The mineral impression of this wine is inexplicable, from a site with chalk no less than 2.5 metres under the surface, in a village unrecognized for chardonnay of structure. Its violent, deep, frothing, salty minerality fills the palate with immense texture, drawn out with incredible persistence by super-focused acidity. Such is its aromatic intensity that I could smell it the moment it was poured on the table before me. Wonderful layers of yellow summer fruits leap out of the glass amid nougat, brioche and almond aromas. Its mineral structure and lively acidity control this intensity on the palate, propagating a finish that does not stop. 97 points. Tyson Stelzer
1996 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF MILLÉSIME MAGNUM RRP $1,277
This is a blend of 57 percent pinot noir and 43 percent chardonnay, and this bottle was disgorged in July of 2012. Compared to Jacquesson’s 1996 Avize DT, this is generous and broad, feeling voluptuous where the other wine feels incisive and pointed. It’s honeyed and spicy, showing golden, ornate aromas of saffron, roasted nuts, dried fruit and incense, and while its acidity is firm, it doesn’t feel aggressive, making it somewhat more approachable than the Avize. It needs a great deal of time in the glass to fully emerge, revealing a subtle, layered complexity and long, harmonious length. Peter Liem, ChampagneGuide.net September 2012
1990 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF MILLÉSIME MAGNUM RRP $1,277
While fully mature this remains admirably fresh with its array of brioche, lemon rind, baked apple and pronounced yeast aromas. There is fine intensity to the notably complex and markedly dry flavours that terminate in a crisp, intense and linear finish that delivers outstanding persistence. This is a wine of restraint and understatement yet the depth is impressive particularly for a non-dosage example as many do not develop to the same degree that this has. 93 points. Burghound October 2015
1989 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF MILLÉSIME MAGNUM RRP $1,277
Severe frosts in spring were followed by a cold snap during flowering, causing coulure and millerandage. A very hot and sunny summer brought on an early, ripe harvest of low acidity. The wines are ample, opulent and very aromatic. This comes from the Grande Vallée de la Marne, Côte des Blancs and Vallée de l’Ardre and comprises 47% Chardonnay, 18% Pinot Noir and 35% Pinot Meunier. – Jacquesson
1995 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF AVIZE GRAND CRU MAGNUM RRP $979
The 1995 Avize Grand Cru is beautifully complete, layered and nuanced. Almonds, smoke, lemon, apricot pit and white flowers are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. The 1995 has both the complexity from extended time on its lees and the freshness of a late-disgorged bottling. Today, it is firing on all cylinders. This bottle was aged on the cork and disgorged in September 2013. The Avize Grand Cru, which has since been discontinued, runs its course with the 2000, which will be released in 2016. 95 points. Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media May 2014
1995 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF GRAND VIN MAGNUM RRP $851
Medium straw. Fresh and lively on the nose, with focused, finely etched flavors of bitter orange, tarragon and smoked ham. An impressively concentrated midweight, with ripe orange, smoky bacon, rose petal and yeasty bread flavors. A very intensely flavored and fresh example of the vintage; its excellent focus bodes well for cellaring. Considerably more complex than a bottle reviewed two years ago. 92 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media November 2005
1990 JACQUESSON DÉGORGEMENT TARDIF GRAND VIN MAGNUM RRP $1,411
Spring frosts and coulure during flowering reduced what would have been a sizeable crop. Ideal sunny conditions during harvest completed a summer which was hot and mostly dry. The wines have an opulence and complexity which is offset by terrific freshness. This is 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir from the Grande Vallée de la Marne, Montagne de Reims and Côte des Blancs. – Jacquesson
2015 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS MAGNUM RRP $99
It’s Chablis all right, though a little more fruity and fleshy than some years. White stonefruit, almond, mint/aniseed, a little flintiness, but flavoursome and juicy with a silky almond gloss, punchy citrus acidity and subtle green tones throughout. Finish is modest, with a few stones scattered amongst the white peach. Lacks backbone, but it’s altogether pleasant to drink. 90 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front September 2016
2013 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS MAGNUM RRP $96
Bold juicy flavours on offer here with sweet green apple, lemon barley, sea spray over shells, and a subtle floral note. Fresh faced but amply fruited, light chalky texture and a lemon rind tang to the finish, which offers satisfying length. Good typical Chablis takes some beating for sheer necking pleasure. 91 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front April 2015
2015 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1er CRU MONTÉE DE TONNERRE MAGNUM RRP $180
Distinct smell of pastis along with rockpools and sea shells, nectarine and ripe lemon. It’s full-flavoured, yet discreet, marrying flint to a subtle glycerol texture. There’s crunch and vivacity, complexity and satisfaction at every sip along the way, and a tight almost chalky finish of excellent length and carry. Wonderful. 95 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front October 2017
2014 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1er CRU MONTÉE DE TONNERRE MAGNUM RRP $180
Showing the purity that’s typical of Guillaume Michel’s style – oak is rarely if ever used – this superb wine comes from a single four-hectare parcel. Saline, yet showing the richness of the right bank with a stony bite and layers of flavour. 96 points. Tim Atkin MW, Gourmet Traveller WINE April 2016
2010 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1er CRU BUTTEAUX VIELLIES VIGNES MAGNUM RRP $180
Michel’s 2010 Chablis Butteaux Vieilles Vignes boasts serious depth. In 2010 the Vieilles Vignes is rich, powerful and seductive. Honey, almonds and succulent peaches wrap around the palate as this deeply resonant, textured wine shows off its class and pedigree. Endless layers of fruit continue to build through to the finish. This is a dazzling effort. 93 points. Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media August 2012
2009 LOUIS MICHEL CHABLIS 1er CRU BUTTEAUX VIELLIES VIGNES MAGNUM RRP $180
The 2009 Chablis Butteaux Vieilles Vines shows fewer signs of the warm vintage than the regular Butteaux. It is a tightly wound, cool Chablis graced with exquisite finesse and elegance. Citrus peel and white flowers embellish the inward, cool finish. 91 points. Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media August 2011
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ VIEILLES VIGNES MAGNUM RRP $119
(bottled in June; the vines here are 75 to 95 years old; made entirely in barriques, 20% new, then moved into stainless steel for its second year of aging): Pale straw-yellow. Riper, yellower and more exotic on the nose than the cuvée Spéciale, with aromas of apricot, honey and fresh porcini. Rich and firm on the palate, with enticing fruit flavors of peach, apricot and quince complemented by lightly saline minerality. Not a sweet or fleshy style, and nicely dry at 1.8 grams per liter of residual sugar. Finishes firm and persistent, with a strong impression of extract and brisk citrussy grip. “This wine is our ID card,” noted Palthey, adding that his grandfather was best known for this cuvée. 91 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 2016
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ LES PRÊTRES DE QUINTAINE MAGNUM RRP $206
(Palthey estimated that about 40% of these 103-year-old vines on marly soil with red clay still remain, with the rest having been replanted over the years; production here is still 25 to 30 hectoliters per hectare; done entirely in pièces, 25% new, the rest one, two and three years old; bottled two days before my visit): Bright, light yellow. Sexy aromas of yellow fruits, smoky minerality, marzipan and white truffle. Large-scaled and ripe but dry, filling the mouth without leaving any impression of weight. More large than long in the typical style of Quintaine, whose wines are known for their residual sugar. Finishes lively and gripping, with a light touch and lingering notes of fresh apricot and lemon. Needs time. Today I prefer this wine to the 2013 version, which was extremely tight when I first tasted it but is now revealing its botrytis influence. 91 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 20162
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ LE CÔTEAU DE L’EPINET MAGNUM RRP $206
(just 800 bottles made from 95-year-old vines; the same élevage and oak as the Prêtres de Quintaine): Pale yellow-gold color. Very ripe aromas of peach, apricot and smoky minerality are a bit more dynamic than those of the Prêtres de Quintaine. Unctuous on entry, then tighter in the middle palate, with very ripe stone fruit flavors accented by spicy oak. This thick but energetic wine shows a distinctly creamy quality for the vintage. Finishes with slowly mounting length and considerable power. This mid-slope climat on red clay soil with small stones in the extreme north of the appellation is one of its best sites, says Palthey, who added that the calcaire here is far under the surface. He added that his 2014s are actually lower in acidity than his 2015s. 92 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 2016
2014 BONHOMME VIRÉ-CLESSÉ LES HAUTS DES MÉNARDS MAGNUM RRP $206
Bright yellow with a gold tinge. Sexy, expressive, very ripe scents of dried apricot, ripe peach, white pepper and hazelnut. Very rich, smooth, ripe and silky but youthfully unforthcoming in the middle palate. This plush wine finishes powerful and very long, with a touch of citrus peel firmness and a tannic quality I did not pick up in the other 2014s at this address. Less harmonious than the other 2014 Viré-Clessé examples but a complete wine nevertheless (like the Prêtres de Quintaine and Côteau de l’Epinet, this was bottled two days prior to my visit). 91+ points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media October 2016
2012 OSTERTAG MUENCHBERG GRAND CRU RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $213
Lightly honeyed and accented by ground spice and citrus zest notes, this dry white offers juicy acidity and flavours of glazed apricot, anise, beeswax and orchard blossom. Elegant, with a lasting, minerally finish. Drink now through 2019. 90 points. Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator October 2014
2014 PAUL BLANCK RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $85
A seriously lovely Alsace riesling, with all the expected flavour – and unexpected elegance and lightness of foot running alongside the synergistic fusion of fruit and acidity. There are none of the phenolic hoof prints of many young Alsace rieslings, instead hints of spiced pear and camomile. Bargain, and will glide through the next 20 years. Drink to 2034; 12.5% alc. 94 points. James Halliday August 2015
2015 DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1e r CRU COMBE D’ORVEAU MAGNUM RRP $660
A cool, pure and elegant nose combines aromas of essence of red cherry, lilac, violet, lavender and plenty of spice components. The sense of refinement continues on the sleek, mineral-driven and wonderfully textured medium weight flavors that deliver fine persistence on the firm, complex, classy and well-balanced finale This is lovely juice. 90-92 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound January 2017
2013 DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY 1e r CRU COMBE D’ORVEAU MAGNUM RRP $561
The 2013 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Combe d’Orveau has a tightly-wound bouquet: cranberry and pomegranate, sous-bois and light rose-petals scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasing, fleshy entry. There is good body and presence here: sappy red berry fruit and a generous dash of spice toward the grippy finish. This is very fine. 89-91 points. Neal Martin, Wine Advocate
2015 DOMAINE TAUPENOT-MERME MAZOYÈRES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU MAGNUM RRP $1,070
The 2015 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense bouquet with lifted redcurrant, raspberry, spice box and quite a noticeable marine influence coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin. This is very focused, almost athletic in terms of tension and somehow “nimble” in the mouth, no heaviness here (a great attribute in such a warm growing season). This is one of the best Mazoyères-Chambertin that I have tasted. 94-96 points Neal Martin, Wine Advocate December 2016
2013 PIRON BEAUJOLAIS MORGON CÔTE DU PY MAGNUM RRP $92
Deep ruby. Vibrant, mineral-tinged cherry and floral pastille aromas are complicated by suggestions of licorice, game and peppery spices. Sappy and energetic in style, offering black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that are given lift and spine by juicy acidity. Finishes with very good intensity and focus, leaving smoky mineral and cherry liqueur notes behind. 91 points. Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media July 2016
GERMANY
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER PRÄLAT RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $412
The 2015 Erdener Prälat Riesling Alte Reben GG is very clear and intense on the nose, where tropical fruit flavors intertwine with smoky red slate, herbal and lemon aromas. This Riesling is full-bodied, rich and lush, but fresh and highly finessed on the palate. This is a very complex and tightly woven, pure and salty, but nevertheless aromatic Riesling; it has concentrated yellow plum and stone fruit aromas. The finish is gorgeous for intellectual wine lovers, as well as for hedonists. The Prälat, though located straight under Loosen’s old vines Treppchen plot and closer to the Mosel river, seems even purer and finer than the Treppchen GG, which is more lush and creamy, showing more tannins. This is an amazing Riesling and the finest dry Prälat I have probably ever tasted. It is ready to drink, but folks, don’t be foolish! Keep it for years and drink it as many times as possible. Just one fuder produced, so less than 1,000 liters. 96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2015 DR LOOSEN BERNKASTELER LAY RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
The 2015er Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett was made with fruit harvested at a modest 82° Oechsle. It offers a gorgeous nose of fresh herbs, white peach and spices. The wine dances on the palate, with good presence and elegance. The finish is airy and vibrant. This is a deliciously well-made Kabinett 2025-2035. 91 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2016 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
The 2016 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett develops a reduced nose of almond and herbs which only gradually give way to cassis, pear, yellow peach, and almond cream after airing. It proves delicately smooth and creamy on the palate with some nice ripe acidity lifting up the aromatics in the finish. 2026-2036. 91 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2017
2015 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
This offers a rather elegant feel of herbs and spices, pear and white flowers on the nose. The wine is nicely elegant and vibrant yet well balanced on the palate and leaves a clean feel in the finish. The wine only needs a little bit of time to smoothen its sharp edges and should then prove a lovely expression of Wehlener Sonnenuhr. 2025-2040. 92 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2014 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
Fresh apple dominates in this delicate, buoyant, understated interpretation of its site and genre. Apple blossom and heliotrope waft across a juicy, subtly creamy palate, and the lingering, refreshing, discreetly sweet finish features an appropriate undertone of wet stone. 90 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
Whereas the ’13 Bernkasteler Lay is effortlessly total seduction, this calmly asserts the primacy of its great site, its flavours etched in finest detail on a headstone of titanium. The Bernkasteler Lay flaunts its charms, this wine plays the opposite game, making you work and realise there is so much more to come down the track, great though it is now. Drink to 2033; 8% alc. 97 points. James Halliday, The Weekend Australian August 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
From iron-rich, red slate soils, the 2015 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett opens with a clear and aromatic, slightly flinty bouquet with tropical fruit and ginger aromas. Round, lush and piquant, this is an intense and well-concentrated Kabinett; it has fine acidity, serious terroir expression and an elegant and persistent finish that reveals good grip and salty purity. This is a very stimulating and complex 8% alcohol Kabinett from old vines on steep terraces. 90 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2014 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
A lovely nose mingles anise, sassafras, and lime, which then inform a delicate, juicy, polished palate. Like its Wehlener Sonnenuhr counterpart, this is a model of understatement, lift and judicious sweetness, and like the corresponding Ürziger Würzgarten, its refreshingly lingering finish incorporates the invigorating cut of lime peel. None of these Loosen Kabinetts is especially concentrated but they take delicious advantage of the relatively generous clusters and modest must weights of vintage 2014 while having scrupulously eliminated any hint of rot or acescence. 90 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2016
2015 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
The 2015 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett displays a very clear, pure and refined, but deep, complex and flinty bouquet; there are stony and lemon perfume aromas. On the palate, this is a very complex, firm and racy Riesling that is low in alcohol (8%), but high in tension and acidity. The finish is long, tight and very complex. I’d keep this Kabinett in the cellar for five or more years, but it can easily age for more than 20 years. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2014 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
Fresh apple, kiwi and lime run from the nose through a buoyant, juicy palate to a refreshing finish deftly judged in its residual sugar and incorporating invigorating bite of apple skin and lime peel. 90 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $106
The 2013 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Kabinett has a quite powerful bouquet with discreet but ripe fruit aromas of ripe and cooked apples. Rich and almost opulent on the palate but not as zesty and buoyant as the Kabinetts from Wehlen or Erden, this is rather a 7% alcohol Spätlese than a Kabinett. The acidity is fine and lingering and the development of this juicy Würzgarten will be slower than in the more bright and charming wines from Erden and Wehlen. 90 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2013 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Plush for the vintage, with open-textured green pear and peach flavors. Offers a minerally finish, with some ripe kiwifruit and savory spice notes. Drink now through 2035. 91 points. Kim Marcus, Wine Spectator February 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
This offers a gorgeous elegant feel of yellow peach, white minerals and earthy herbs. The wine is nicely playful and vibrant on the palate as more white minerals and juicy yellow fruits come through towards the airy and elegant finish. This proves light, airy and very hard to resist. It only needs a decade to fully integrate its youthful exuberance. 2025-2045. 93 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2014 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Very rich and intense on the nose, with floral and tropical fruit aromas opens the 2014 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spätlese (#24). This is a nobly textured, concentrated yet very fine and delicate Riesling with a perfect balance of fruit, minerals and acidity. Absolutely delicious and provided with a long and stimulatingly salty finish. 92 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Elegant aromas of cherry, apple blossom and hazelnut. Sweet and creamy on the palate, tinged with herb, nut and vanilla flavors. Offers good balance and a nice underlying sense of slate. Good length. 88 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media March 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
Fresh strawberry and lime laced with cress offer a bracing aromatic and palate impression, and bright, infectious juiciness carries into an invigoratingly zesty and mouthwateringly salt-tinged finish. As befits Riesling of Mosel origins, wet stone runs like a cantus firmus through this entire delightful performance, whose supportive sweetness knows when to back off in the interest of clarity and refreshment. 91 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media June 2017
2014 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
From clusters with the tiniest berries and loosest, smallest clusters among Loosen’s wealth of old, single-post-trained Würzgarten vines, this delivers site-typical strawberries in lightly confitured form, mingled with quince jelly and laced with mint and candied lime peel. A glossy palate and significant sweetness reinforce the confitured impression, which is complemented by liquid lily perfume. Yet there is still a refreshing stock of primary juiciness to the lusciously lingering finish. 92 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $149
The 2013 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese is purer and more precise and spicy on the nose than the Kabinett. It is a serious, lusciously sweet and juicy, well-balanced highlight of the 2013 vintage, showing a piquant mineral finish and a stimulating grip on the palate. Lovely to drink today, but you can also keep it for more than two decades. 92 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2013 DR LOOSEN WEHLENER SONNENUHR RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $234
The 2013 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese has a rich and ripe but also cool and smoky nose of crushed grey slate plates and a dash of lime juice. The wine is round and sweet and very elegant on the palate, quite luscious and mellow but still delicate and well balanced whereas the finish is sensual and exuberant with ripe fruit flavors. A wine made for at least 3 or 4 decades. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The 2015 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese is sourced in the whole Treppchen, where Loosen owns 4 or 4.5 hectares. The wine opens clear, fresh and piquant on the nose, and reveals a juicy intensity and slate-like freshness on the palate. It is very stimulating, though not as deep and rich as the corresponding Sonnenuhr Auslese. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2016
2014 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The 2014 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese is even more open and refined on the clear, coolish and herbal-flavoured flavoured nose with its subtle slate and black olive aromas. Very sweet and intense on the palate, with a pure background and a piquant mineral acidity, this concentrated and elegant Riesling needs another 7-10 years to reach its first maturity. 93+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ERDENER TREPPCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The pure and flinty-piquant slate aromas intermixed with bright tropical fruit flavors such as pineapples but also floral and herbal notes lead the 2013 Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese to an absolutely clear, delicious, delicate and filigreed, well balanced terroir ambassador of great finesse and elegance. This is the most subtle and refined Auslese of the 2013 vintage at Dr. Loosen. 95 points Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate February 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $256
The 2015 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese is super clear, fresh and precise on the nose, which reveals flint and stony, as well as lemony fruit aromas. On the palate, this is a refreshing, piquant and vibrant Auslese made from perfectly selected grapes with 50% of botrytis. The wine is enormously vital and crisp, showing a very intense and long finish with tropical fruit aromas. Great aging potential and highly digestible. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2014 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $234
Pure and slate-like on the nose, with some flinty flavors and a lot of terroir expression and stones starts the 2014 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese. Pretty, piquant and racy on the palate, this is a compact and minerally-structured Auslese that tastes drier than the Sonnenuhr Auslese; even so, the residual sweetness is a bit higher here. It is the deep, piquant and mineral finish with its saltiness and raciness that makes this a terroir-driven, stimulating Riesling. Very promising. 93+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 DR LOOSEN ÜRZIGER WÜRZGARTEN RIESLING AUSLESE MAGNUM RRP $234
The 2013 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese again is purer and more precise, piquant and flinty on the nose than the gold-capsuled Spätlese, which makes the Auslese a better terroir ambassador than the luxury Spätlese. Compared with the regular Spätlese the Auslese is even more refined and sophisticated and, of course, more concentrated and sweet or, to shorten the eulogy, a terrific, piquant and terroir-driven Würzgarten: grand cru à la Moselle! 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt Wine Advocate February 2015
2015 DR LOOSEN ERDENER PRÄLAT RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $396
Picked at 145°Oechsle, the 2015 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Long Gold Capsule has a clear, fresh, mineral, grapefruit and lemon bouquet. On the palate, this is a rich, sweet and elegant TBA with an enormously vital acidity and stimulatingly fresh fruit. This amazing Auslese is a very digestible Riesling provided with great aging potential. 96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2017
2013 DR LOOSEN ERDENER PRÄLAT RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $346
Rich golden yellow. Unctuous aromas of papaya, dried apricot and fresh fig waft over botrytis notes of nutmeg and cinnamon. Succulent honey-glazed peach fruit is kept fresh by robust, bright acidity and a dash of slate. Polished and high-toned on the long, satisfying finish. 92 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media March 2015
2015 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN SHIEFERTERRASSEN RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $117
The 2015er Trocken Schieferterrassen is made from the Estate’s holdings in Winningen (Domgarten, Brückstück and Hamm) and Kobern (Fahrberg and Weissenberg) as well as from declassified fruit from its “cru” vineyards. It offers a gorgeous nose of marzipan, herbs and spices. The wine is delicately baroque and full of character on the palate as ripe yellow fruits are nicely complemented by spicy herbs and a hint of tartness in the finish. 2018-2025. 88 points. Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines October 2016
2015 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $363
Tasted from the barrel and still dusty in its ripe golden color, the 2015 Riesling Uhlen R ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ (which is always bottled late) combines super ripe, rich and intense tropical fruit aromas (pineapples) with the spicy flavors of red (iron-rich) slate. The palate, however, is stunningly pure and finessed, highly elegant and almost light whereas the finish is very long, full of salt, grip and tension. A great promise! 95-97 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2017
2014 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $297
Served from the decanter as a barrel sample, the 2014 Riesling Uhlen R ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ from the Roth Lay plot offers an intensely fruity and lovely flinty/smoky bouquet, with mango flavors and very fine slate and herbal aromas that indicate great purity and intensity. Full-bodied, rich and round on the palate, with a lot of finesse and tension, this is on its way to develop into a beauty that combines contradictory attributes: richness and concentration with purity, density with finesse, and power with elegance. The finish is highly promising. This is one of the Mosel wines of 2014 you shouldn’t miss! 95-97 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $297
Tasted from the barrel, the 2013 Winningen Uhlen R(oth Lay) Grosse Lage Riesling trocken shows an elderflower and Almdudler nose (an Austrian, sweetened carbonated beverage flavoured with herbs) along with ripe Riesling and apple fruit as well as herbal slate flavors. There is a racy-mineral attack on the full-bodied and creamy/juicy palate and also the long and complex finish is marked by the iron-rich terroir of the Uhlen’s Roth Lay parcel. The wine is dense, elegant and firmly structured and the finish is tension-filled, expressive and enormously persistent. Again the Uhlen R is Reinhard Löwenstein’s most impressive dry Riesling rivalled in 2013 only by the stunning Laubach. 93+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate May 2015
2011 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $297
Pale gold. A little more muted but better behaved than the Von Blauem. Fun. Almonds. 17/20. Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com May 2014
2010 HEYMANN-LÖWENSTEIN UHLEN ROTH LAY RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $297
Very ripe pear, quince and peach allied to nutty piquancy and ravishingly sweetly-scented floral perfume characterize the finished bottling of Heymann-Lowenstein 2010 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Roth Lay Reserve which boasts an improbable absence of any negative characteristics from its 14.7% alcohol or of overt sweetness from its roughly 30 grams of residual sugar, and an uncanny alliance of textural creaminess and expansiveness with lift and vivacity that are still much as I described them from cask in issue 199. Glowing, resonant, and gripping yet without phenolic or alcoholic roughness, this superb concentrate ought to perform memorably for a dozen or more years, though granted there is always some risk that its alcohol will become evident. 95 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate April 2013
2014 GEORG BREUER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $346
Super stony and pure on the very deep and intense nose, which displays ripe fruit and refreshing lemon aromas, the 2014 Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Trocken is a full-bodied, powerful wine with melting stones as well as an enormous salinity and structure. It is very grippy, firmly structured, and very long and complex. A great and persistent wine. Lots of finesse and elegance. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December 2015
2012 GEORG BREUER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $319
Stately aromas of nectarine, honeysuckle and bay leaf. Dense peach fruit texture and slate-driven minerality are nicely juxtaposed on the palate. Excellent depth and spice on a delicious finish. One of the finest dry efforts of the vintage, with only 11.5% alcohol! 92 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media January 2014
2011 GEORG BREUER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $319
Exuberant bouquet of star fruit, honeysuckle and bay leaf. Dense peach fruit texture and slate-driven minerality are nicely juxtaposed on the palate. Shows excellent depth and spice character on the delicious finish. A hint of residual sugar provides this wine with an air of nobility. 93 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media January 2013
2014 DÖNNHOFF ESTATE RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $96
Gleaming straw-green; elegance personified, delicate yet with laser precision; grapefruit and apple flow through the length of the palate, strung along a strand of bright acidity; excellent length. Will grow and grow on its perfect balance. Drink to 2034; 11.5% alc. 95 points. James Halliday August 2015
2015 DÖNNHOFF TONSCHIEFER RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $132
The 2015 Riesling Trocken Tonschiefer is from the Oberhausen Leistenberg, from a weathered carbonic slate soil that is able to take water. The wine opens with a lovely, clear and subtle bouquet of white fruits and weathered slate plates. On the palate, this is a light, salty, very well gripped and tension-filled Riesling with clear, dry fruit and dancing slate grains. This is another beauty of the 2015 vintage, and as a Riesling enthusiast you ask yourself: What else do I need? 91 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December 2016
2014 DÖNNHOFF TONSCHIEFER RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $117
This bottling based as usual on the heavily clay- (Ton) rich slate of the Oberhäuser Kieselberg no doubt also reflects that site’s superior ventilation in eclipsing this year’s basic dry generic. Apple and white peach are mingled with hints of orange and grapefruit and tinged with brown spices on the nose. The aforementioned fruits collaborate for a colourful and succulent mid-palate where peach stone piquancy and wet stone add interesting counterpoint. A cooling combination of floral and herbal inner-mouth elements delightfully complements the fruit in a succulently sustained finish. 90 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media May 2016
2013 DÖNNHOFF TONSCHIEFER RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $117
Some real depth to this wine with polish and tonic qualities. Long. 16.5/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com May 2014
2013 DÖNNHOFF DELLCHEN RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $322
Never the biggest puncher among the Grosse Gewächse, the Dellchen tends to state its case through elegance and finesse, and in this way 2013 does not differ from preceding vintages. It would be true to say that the acidity is more pronounced in this vintage, giving the wine a very lively character and very subtly chiselled purity. It is probably a little less fruity than in previous years, but does have a fine herbal finish to produce the customary complexity. 18/20 Michael Schmidt jancisrobinson.com September 2014
2011 DÖNNHOFF DELLCHEN RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $322
Juicy white peach and its kernel, crabapple and its pit, tartly and piquantly mark the Donnhoff 2011 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, which displays a shimmering sense of transparency to vibrant crystalline and stony (as well as the aforementioned piquant) nuances. Saliva-inducing saline savor and an invigorating sense of piquancy and tactile mineral impingement render the finish here profound and provocative (above all, of the next sip!). I would look for at least a decade of stimulation. 93 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2009 DÖNNHOFF DELLCHEN RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $322
Donnhoff’s 2009 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs evinces distilled mirabelle and purple plum; shrimp shell reduction; sea breeze; peat; and forest floor, in an aromatic display of head-scratching intrigue and complexity. All of these aromatic complications reveal their counterparts on a palate of surprisingly lush fresh-fruitedness. The sense of lift, vibrancy, and focus are striking for a wine of 13% alcohol and the iodine, salt, and shrimp shell mineral aspects render the finish compulsively saliva- and next sip-inducing. I expect this to perform brilliantly for another 12-15 years. 94 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2011
2011DÖNNHOFF FELSENTÜRMCHEN RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $322
Lifted interesting nose. A real edge of interest here though it would be easy to overlook as it is very far from flashy. Made for the long term? Bone dry. Lots to get your teeth into. 17.5/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com August 2012
2014 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $328
Dönnhoff’s iconic 2014 Riesling Hermannshöhle GG opens with a beautifully clear, coolish and smoky/fumy bouquet of great purity, precision and aromatic complexity. Think of intermingling lemon and slate aromas. The attack on the palate is racy and clear, and the wine starts straightly dancing over the palate. This is concentrated, perfectly ripe Riesling on the knife’s edge; it’s nicely piquant, highly mineral and endlessly salty. There are notes of melting stones and mineral, with great tension. “The vines are older in the Hermannshöhle, one plot is as old as I am,” says Dönnhoff, who was born in 1949. 96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $328
There is something fresh and cool about the fragrance of the Hermannshöhle, although the customary yellow fruit aromas are not missing. On the palate apple and lime produce a mouth-watering alliance which is perfected by a scintillating acidity. Add to this already intriguing combination a generous measure of compact minerality and you have the makings of one of the most promising Grosse Gewächse of the 2013 vintage. 18.5/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com September 2014
2012 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $328
Sumptuous aromas of dried apricot, blackberry and oyster shell, complicated by a smoky, herbal character. Dense passion fruit and finely polished minerality animate the palate. Rich, elegant and spicy on the persistent finish, this will certainly improve with bottle age. 91 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media January 2014
2011 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $328
High-toned, bitter-sweetly suggestive herbal and floral essences as well as intimations of musk and crushed stone rise from the glass of Donnhoff 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Grosses Gewachs, with projects both mid-palate stuffing and inviting primary juiciness, its herbal extracts and inner-mouth floral perfume wafting through a sparely-textured, palpably extract-rich matrix of white peach and lime. Positively green and nutty sprout-like, as well as maritime impingements serve for invigoration in a sustained, saliva-inducing, energy-evoking, rivetingly interactive finish. This model of what Donnhoff dubs his “puristic” ideal for dry Riesling will give you something to wonder at over for at least 12-15 years. (A consensus seems to have developed in certain German quarters that Donnhoff’s dry wines have in recent years been rendered softer and more approachable, while losing an allegedly once uncompromising dryness and acidity. Wherever did good tasters get this idea?!) 94 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2015 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $825
Dönnhoff first dry Riesling from their monopole Brücke (bridge) site in many years with a much more limited production than the other GGs. Tart blackcurrant and grapefruit notes dominate the nose suggesting that this is going to be quite a cool and tart wine, and indeed it is. Enormous drive and depth on the palate lead into a whiplash finish. 96 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com September, 2016
2014 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER LEISTENBERG RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $97
The 2014 Riesling Kabinett Oberhäuser Leistenberg is cool, fresh and just ripe on the pure and elegant nose. Gentle and smooth, but also piquant and salty on the palate, this is a light and fruity, well balanced Kabinett with ripe acidity and a pure and salty, very stimulating finish. In a few words: round and juicy, but extremely stimulating and light. As father Hermann Dönnhoff once said, “The Leistenberg is not the wine with the highest must weight, but it’s always our finest wine.” 90 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate March 2016
2013 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER LEISTENBERG RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $97
Fragrant, flowery lime blossom aromas lead like the path of an arrow into the bullseye of the glorious lime juice palate, the tension between the fruit and the electric acidity mouthwateringly intense. A perennial favourite of mine, this will be particularly long-lived thanks to that acidity. 9.5% alc. Drink to 2026. 96 points. James Halliday, The Weekend Australian June 2015
2011 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER LEISTENBERG RIESLING KABINETT MAGNUM RRP $97
Prominent wet-stone “slate” character and piquant toasted walnut lend counterpoint to lusciously juicy apple and quince in a Donnhoff 2011 Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett that epitomizes the distinctive virtues of its genre: levity, transparency to nuance, and refreshment – and this despite a relatively low-acid and unusually ripe vintage in which the wine pushes 10% alcohol. A sense of extract and stuffing is evident but somehow doesn’t in the least weigh-down this long-finishing Riesling with its delectably dynamic finishing interaction of stone, spice, nuts and fruit. This, Helmut Donnhoff opines, is an example of “a site displaying its special talent.” Look for at least 12-15 years of exemplary performance. 92 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2015 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $239
The 2015 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese opens with an aristocratic bouquet of coolish, flinty slate and citrus perfume along with concentrated Riesling flavors. There is great complexity and expression here! On the palate, this wine is highly elegant and its seamless, silky texture is like that of the Dellchen GG. Very salty, full of finesse and tension on the palate – this is a great, perfectly balanced Spätlese. There is no other Riesling in the Nahe that has such nobly aristocratic attitude. It’s one of the finest Spätlese Rieslings you can buy from this vintage. 95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December 2016
2013 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $239
Smoky notes, some wet stone, freshly zested mixed citrus. Juicy and crisp texture to taste, but also has an inward concentration matched to a bristle of zingy acidity. Quite a unique flavour spectrum, complex, layered, with a tingle through the finish. Pretty epic in its drive and energy, finding supreme interest and balance. Wicked. 95 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front February 2015
2011 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $239
A riveting, high-toned aromatic diversity announces the Donnhoff 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese with themes that inform an at once creamy yet subtly tannic and vibrant palate: quince, pear, lychee, nut oils, fusel oils, distilled herbal essences, brown spices, and smoky black tea. This behaves as if a bit of Traminer had been blended-in. The rich nuttiness and glaze of honey as well as sheer succulence of fruit make for a more opulent performance than that of Brucke, but to say that this is less energetic or dynamic would be misleading. Its incessant interplay of elements is utterly kaleidoscopic – just more calmly harmonious than the Spatlese from next door. Like that sibling, this deserves to be followed for a good quarter-century. 96 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2013 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $198
The 2013 Oberhauser Brucke Spatlese is very clear, precise, herbal and mineral on the nose with lemon and pineapple aromas. Juicy, piquant and elegant on the palate this is a rich, sweet and salty, stimulating Riesling with a sensual fruitiness and a piquant length. Lovely to drink now and over the next 20 years. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, The Wine Advocate January 2015
2007 DÖNNHOFF NORHEIMER KIRSCHHECK RIESLING SPÄTLESE MAGNUM RRP $297
As usual with Donnhoff’s renditions of this site, his 2007 Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese displays a profusion of flowers (buddleia, rose lily, and cherry blossom) on the nose and cherry fruit and citrus on the palate that combine for an irresistible charm offensive. This silken, pure Riesling is suffused not only with wafting floral perfume, but with saline, savory, scallop-like mineral notes that add to its utterly lip-smacking, saliva-inducing brand of refreshment. Here’s a great example of residually sweet Riesling possessing not one gram more than needed for maximum support of its aromas and fruit flavors, so that sweetness per se is the last thing you have on your mind as you reach for the next sip. While there is no extended track record yet at this address – and perhaps never has been for a Kirschheck with this sort of balance and sheer quality – experience with analogous Donnhoff wines suggest one could hold it for at least two decades. But don’t miss it now, either! 94 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate October 2009
2007 DÖNNHOFF FELSENTÜRMCHEN RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $319
An uncanny alliance of richness and creaminess with delicacy and refreshment characterizes Donnhoff’s 2007 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese, which was picked-out over his entire holdings in that site. Red currant, musk melon, pear, quince, and lily in the nose lead to an exchange of berries, pit fruits, citrus, and smoky, pungent, malty, ore-like elements. This lacks the striking intensity or intricate interplay that characterized some of the best wines in this year’s collection, but it was utterly embryonic in April and only beginning to show its refinement and elegance after six months in bottle. It should be a two-decade keeper. 92 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate October 2009
2013 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $346
The 2013 Riesling Auslese Niederhauser Hermannshohle is clear and piquant on the pure nose displaying lime and grapefruit aromas in a very subtle way. Really sweet and piquant on the palate, this is a thrillingly salty and persistently minerally wine of great expression and concentration (120 Oe!) and length – an Auslese monument of great expression and joy. It is enormously piquant. 96 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate January 2015
2011 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $319
One of three products of botrytis selection in this site that extended into January, the Donnhoff 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese gold capsule strikingly combines custardy richness of texture and honeyed ennoblement with bright acidity; a wellspring of primary juiciness; and salinity that will milk you salivary glands for all that they are worth. Fresh orange with its candied rind; white peach jelly with piquancy of pit fruits; buddleia and lilac; passion fruit, nut pastes and vanilla cream add to the luscious allure of this remarkable libation. A faint aura of truffle and musk emerges with airing – no doubt pointing toward the extremely late picking of by then relatively mature yet still fine botrytis. Dynamically multidimensional, yet sharing with its Brucke counterpart a soothing sense of harmony, this almost endlessly fascinating as well as endlessly lingering wine deserves to be followed for three decades. 97 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2007 DÖNNHOFF HERMANNSHÖHLE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $394
Donnhoff’s 2007 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese leads with an unusually floral aromatic display, and the palate impression is so honeyed you’d think it were Bienenauslese (selected by bees). There is remarkable density here, with site-typical layering of flowers, orchard fruits, citrus, berries, along with smoky, peat-like, stony mineral suggestions that become more prominent as the wine takes on air. The finish is almost luxuriantly rich by Hermannshohle standards. But I am sure this wine will find more to say with time and not fall silent for 30 years or more. 95 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate October 2009
2013 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $330
The 2013 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese has a very clear and precise bouquet of slightly cooked apples and lemons. Piquant on the palate this is a very bright, firmly structured and salty wine with a great and complex length. It is precise and very juicy but always piquant and salty. A great and stimulating Auslese. 94+ points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate January 2015
2011 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $330
The Donnhoff 2011 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese gold capsule represents a selection of partly-botrytized bunches pulled out before what remained was packed under film to await the first hard frost. Mango and papaya, quince and peach deliver an impression both tropical and northerly, with musky animal and smoky black tea scents adding intrigue, while alkaline, saline, and otherwise maritime nuances lend saliva-inducing counterpoint to this elixir’s sheer richness of fruit as well as its palate’s opulence, oily texture, and honeyed glaze. There is a glowing, soothing yet stimulating harmony to the finish, even if not the animation or spellbinding interactivity of this year’s Donnhoff Spatlesen. I would plan to follow it over the next 20-25 years. Donnhoff doesn’t disagree with me that this is 2011 first and Brucke second. “You can’t heighten the typicity of the site by means of botrytis,” he adds. “That reached its apex already in the Spatlese.” 93 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2007 DÖNNHOFF OBERHÄUSER BRÜCKE RIESLING AUSLESE GOLDKAPSEL MAGNUM RRP $383
The 2007 Oberhaueser Brucke Riesling Auslese A.P.#19, remarks Donnhoff, is what would have traditionally been labeled -feine Auslese,- which I suppose you could call -gold capsule Auslese- if you like. The grapes weren’t ripe enough to merit feinste, in other words, but this is pretty damned fine! Red currant, blueberry, honey, and brown spices stream from the glass and saturate the palate, where the contrast of bright high tones of citrus and fruit distillates with low notes of nut oil, browned butter, and malt recapitulates with greater intensity and refinement the already amazing diversity exhibited by the Spatlese. In fact, granted Donnhoff’s point that Spatlese offers the ideal level at which to survey the vineyard, this particular Auslese seems like a crystal-clear aerial photograph of a great site and its fruit, each wealth of details mirrored in a long-drawn-out finish. No doubt 30 years won’t find it past prime. 95 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate October 2009
2015 A. CHRISTMANN IDIG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $297
Noble oaky flavors intertwined with a perfume of ripe stone fruits, lemons, herbs and crushed stones open to the very deep, complex and concentrated 2015 Königsbacher Idig Riesling Trocken GG. This full-bodied, powerful, round and juicy, yet vital and finesse-full Riesling reveals a dense and silky texture. The wine is structured with fine tannins and a highly elegant, mouthwatering and mineral acidity. The oak is still detectable in the beginning, but gets very well integrated with (some hours of) aeration. The finish is pure and salty, as well as powerful, sappy and aromatic. The 2015 Idig is very fine, but also compact and powerful. This will need some years to unfold its great character. 95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2014 A. CHRISTMANN IDIG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $305
Christmann’s iconic 2014 Königsbacher Idig Riesling trocken GG is pure, intense, fresh, and displays chalk and lemon flavors on the concentrated, complex nose. Full-bodied and round on the palate, very elegant, intense and firmly structured, but also full of finesse and a certain lightness, this is great dry Riesling with a very long, complex finish. Again, like in 2013, a great character and among the finest dry German Rieslings of the vintage. Just to see how it feels, I blended the Idig with the Königsbacher, which comes from the lower part of the Idig, and the wine was still terrific in its purity and terroir expression – even fresher and leaner. 95 points Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December, 2015
2013 A. CHRISTMANN IDIG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $305
Some toasty notes, drizzle of honey, punch of ripe green apple. It’s a beautiful bouquet, evocative of complex, layered Riesling. Hedonistic flavours of green apple, honey, brioche, but with crackling acidity, lively chalky fringes, a focus, but also generosity and drive. Slate and lime characters. Driven and delicious. 97 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front March 2015
2012 A. CHRISTMANN IDIG GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $305
Certified biodynamic. Limestone and clay. Tension and raciness. Very nervy and exciting. 17.5/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com May, 2014
2015 WITTMANN ESTATE RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $85
Bottled early April. Very intense floral nose and good balance on the palate – not too austere. Lots to enjoy here. Very fluid and flavourful. Would make a great wine in a resto or wine bar. 16.5/20 Jancis Robinson, jancisrobinson.com October 2016
2011 WITTMANN AULERDE GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $170
A smoky, chalky, ashen impression on the nose of Wittmann’s 2011 Westhofener Aulerde Riesling Grosses Gewachs sets the stage for a relatively austere palate impression. That said, there is ample juicy, apple-y fruit to serve for refreshment and to carry the wine’s impressive load of mineral characteristics into a persistent finish. I suspect this will be best drunk over the next 3-5 years. 90 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate February 2013
2014 WITTMANN BRUNNENHÄUSCHEN GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $272
The 2014 Westhofen Brunnenhäuschen Riesling trocken GG is very intense on the nose, where yeasty lemon flavors and crushed stones are displayed. Very restrained on the pure, fresh and piquant palate with lots of finesse, this dry Riesling reveals a complex old vines intensity and expressive finish as well as a great aging potential. 93-94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December 2015
2014 WITTMANN MORSTEIN GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $272
2013 and 2014 were challenging vintages for growers adhering to biodynamic viticulture, but Wittmann’s Morstein does not reflect those difficulties. On the contrary, adversity seems to have sharpened the focus and has produced a Grosses Gewächs with several distinctive layers. The customary generosity of fruit with its exotic nuances begins the Beguine of flavours, but never masks the contribution of a cool salty minerality. Maybe the body is a little tauter than it has been in warmer years, but this has only altered the structure, not the quality of the wine. Juicy acidity perpetuates the flow, tangy citrus peel adds zest and piquancy. 19/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com September 2015
2012 WITTMANN MORSTEIN GROSSES GEWÄCHS RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $243
Exuberant scents of vineyard peach, sweet lime and cinnamon, plus a hint of clove oil. Intensely flavored and very deep, with a passion fruit flavor perfectly balanced by lively acidity. With its sheer weight and uplifting spice on the finish, this is the most masculine of all of Wittmann’s grand crus and certainly the wine with the most potential. 94 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media January 2014
2012 HUBER MALTERDINGER PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $124
Good colour; Huber grows and makes pinot of world class; the bouquet is fragrant and very expressive, hinting at the cherry and plum fruit that has a juicy succulence as it rolls over the back-palate and into the finish and aftertaste. 95 points. James Halliday September 2015
2013 HUBER MALTERDINGER PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $124
Spicy and sappy, smoky cherry and plum with oak well in the background. Light to medium bodied, spicy and undergrowthy, with crunch of acidity and a fine dusting of tannin. A bit minerally and has precision, without being too strict. Finish is good too. Likely better with a couple of years on it too, though attractive now. 92 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front May, 2016
2013 HUBER ALTE REBEN PINOT NOIR MAGNUM RRP $206
Huber’s 2013 Spätburgunder Alte Reben comes from a selection of vines that average 40 years of age and are planted on shell limestone soils, including the crus. The wine displays a deep, spicy, clear and slightly flinty cherry and red berry bouquet, which has remarkable finesse and precision. Medium to full-bodied, juicy, fresh and refined, this is a beautifully elegant and balanced Pinot Noir. There are present yet silky tannins and a long, clear, fresh and aromatic finish. This is an excellent little cru with grip and stimulating authenticity. 91 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2013 HUBER PINOT NOIR BIENENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
From more than 60-year-old German clones, the 2013 Bienenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs displays an intense nose of ripe dark fruit, and some peppery and other spicy aromas. Full-bodied, round and full of finesse, grip and tension, this is a fleshy, well-concentrated and refreshing Pinot Noir. This drinks lovely today, but can age over 6-8 years. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate August 2016
2012 HUBER PINOT NOIR BIENENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
As you ascend the steps of the quality ladder of Huber, the quality of each wine seems to be incapable of being overtaken, but it is. Here there is a perfect union between the varietal expression and a silken mosaic of tannins, oak the hidden backing of the mosaic. Simply beautiful. 97 points. James Halliday September 2015
2011 HUBER PINOT NOIR BIENENBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $277
Medium to deep ruby with purple tinge. The Bienenberg really is one of those rare wines that can conjure up images of a sunny autumn afternoon with its delightful fragrance of bonfire smoke, rosehip hedgerows and raspberry bushes. The juicy acidity of cherries and redcurrants demonstrates that Huber has resisted the temptation to pick his grapes too late, and equal restraint is shown by the lack of any strongly roasted notes – a gentle spicy sandalwood notion the only concession to oak. A lively and supple Grosses Gewächs for the uncomplicated appreciation of fine Spätburgunder. 18/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com August 2013
2013 HUBER PINOT NOIR SOMMERHALDE GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
The Sommerhalde charms with a seductive perfume of exotic spices, orchard blossom and fine cigar smoke. On the palate things get a little more intense with lashings of fleshy plums and juicy morello cherries making the early running, only to be reined in by flavours of dark chocolate, dust from the grindstone, roasted hazelnuts and a subtle mix of herbs and spices. Still youthful, but already very elegant. 18/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com September 2015
2012 HUBER PINOT NOIR SOMMERHALDE GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $297
Concentrated plum hue with bright purple rim. We have had minerality, fruit and power in Huber’s other three Grosse Gewächse. The Bombacher literally excels in the field, or to be more precise, meadow, with herbs and hay evoking associations of a warm Indian summer. Sweet cherries and mouthwateringly juicy plums deliver plenty of fruit, barriques donate tasteful notes of cloves and cedar, firm tannins and an assertive acidity complete a solid structure. The poor man’s Wildenstein, not so much in taste, but in terms of value for money. 18.5/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com September 2014
2011 HUBER PINOT NOIR SOMMERHALDE GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $277
If Bombacher awakes associations of bombast, only the colour of the Sommerhalde with its deep plum hue and distinctive purple rim could be seen to do justice to that image. The nose conjures up an image of a hazy Indian summer’s afternoon, with bonfire smoke drifting across meadows and hedgerows exuding fragrances of wild herbs and autumn fruit. For those who don’t get out that much (or far), juicy morello cherries, ripe plums and mouthwatering redcurrants are served well by a generous contribution of sandalwood spices, dried herbs and expertly toasted aromas. A tight minerality partners assertive tannins to provide a firm structure. Spätburgunder suave and sophisticated. 19/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com August 2013
2013 HUBER PINOT NOIR SCHLOSSBERG GROSSES GEWÄCHS MAGNUM RRP $346
None of Huber’s Grosse Gewächse are short of fruit, but although the Schlossberg exhibits its fair fragrance of plums and blackberries, they merely act in support of a darker and deeper minerally expression. Shaved pencil, graphite and forest undergrowth represent a most intriguing and almost mysterious composition of aromas. On the palate the fruit of dark berries insists on its juicy ways, supported by fine spices, but then a cool stony notion takes command. Compact structure, full body and firm grip demand to be given time to agree on harmony. 18/20 Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com September 2015
AUSTRIA
2015 EMMERICH KNOLL SCHÜTT RIESLING SMARAGD MAGNUM RRP $264
The most multidimensional of its vintage’s Knoll Rieslings, this combines the focus, brightness, extract-richness and animation of the corresponding Pfaffenberg Selektion with extra measures of textural silkiness and depth of fruit. Succulent white peach is complemented by juiciness of fresh lime and piquancy of hazelnut and peach kernel, along with a fascinating range of marine mineral nuances. The finish is forceful and saliva-inducing, full of intrigue, yet never abandons vintage-typical fruitiness or forgets Riesling’s obligation to refresh. 92-93 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media Feb 2017
2013 EMMERICH KNOLL VINOTHEKFÜLLUNG RIESLING SMARAGD MAGNUM RRP $383
Marine breeze, high-toned mintiness and nuances of peach and nectarine that then lusciously inform the full, faintly oily palate. Pithy pit piquancy serves for welcome counterpoint and grapefruit for zesty and vivacious juiciness. For all of its almost honeyed richness, this wine’s finishing penetration is downright rapier-like, displaying an alluring interchange with bright citrus, glowingly cyanic fruit pit, and cooling green herbal notes. 93 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media Feb 2017
2011 F.X. PICHLER KELLERBERG GRÜNER VELTLINER SMARAGD MAGNUM RRP $266
Lithe, rich and effusively minerally, this offers some saline notes to the lively mix of red peach, wild cherry and white plum flavors. Interesting elements of slate and dried herbs add to the complexity, revealing accents of lemon that linger on the broad-brushed finish. 16.5/20 Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com February 2013
2011 F.X. PICHLER KELLERBERG RIESLING SMARAGD MAGNUM RRP $298
Very rich and perfumed – almost crosses into Torrontés/Gewürztraminer territory. Very much a florist’s wine. Good but not classical. 16.5/20 Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com February 2013
2015 F.X. PICHLER ‘M’ RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $313
Reliance on late-harvested Loibenberg fruit resulted in a bottling that finished with too much residual sugar to qualify as Smaragd. (More thoroughly shriveled Loibenberg fruit resulted in a B.A. and T.B.A.) Lusciously ripe peach is tinged with banana and mingled with almond extract and liquid heliotrope perfume. Fortunately, a measure of grapefruit is not only pungently fragrant but also brightly juicy and piquantly zesty, helping – along with piquancy of peach kernel – to offset this bottling’s enveloping richness and sheer surfeit of ripe, sugar-reinforced fruit. The impressively sustained finish is, however, not at all overtly sweet. 91-92 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media February 2017
2013 F.X. PICHLER ‘M’ RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $313
This vintage’s “M” originates solely in the Loibenberg and, following a common practice in the Wachau, takes the designation Reserve because of having finished fermenting with too much residual sugar (in this case, 16 grams) to qualify as Smaragd. A further consequence is its weighing in at only a bit more than 13% alcohol. This was raised in a once-used 2,500-liter cask so there is still some resin and spice from the oak, but, like the wine’s subtle sweetness, that element manages to integrate successfully into honey and cocoa powder notes that inflect luscious flavors of peach, pineapple, pink grapefruit and mango. Surprisingly fruit-dominated, this expansive and creamily textured Riesling elixir acquires welcome counterpoint and invigoration thanks to piquancy of peach kernel and tart twang of pineapple core and grapefruit rind. It finishes with compelling, indeed amazing, length, if not—for now, at least—significant complexity of an interactive sort. 94 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media November 2015
2013 F.X. PICHLER ‘M’ GRÜNER VELTLINER MAGNUM RRP $313
Lucas Pichler’s monumental 2013 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M opens with an ultra-ripe, concentrated and slightly speck-y yet still precise and even mineral-scented bouquet on the nose. Very rich and intense on the palate, this elegant, full-bodied, densely textured and powerful Veltliner from late-harvested grapes reveals an aromatic and juicy fruit core along with a stunningly vibrant acidity that gives structure, length and a lifting as well as lingering salinity and piquancy. Maracuya and other tropical fruit flavors dominate the aromatic aftertaste. Although I have no experience with matured samples of this Austrian icon Veltliner, I suspect it has an aging potential of 5-10 years and should be cellared at least for another 2 or 3 years. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2015
2012 F.X. PICHLER UNENDLICH RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $766
Representing roughly 75% Kellerberg, 20% Hollerin and 5% Steinertal, and weighing-in at 14% alcohol, the Pichler 2012 Riesling Smaragd Unendlich projects lusciously ripe, brown-spiced peach mingled with both the sweet marzipan-like and the bitterly cyanic sides of almond, as well as with pistachio extract, smoky black tea, and a sweet-saline, iodine-tinged, salivary gland-milking savor akin to lobster shell reduction. Living up to its name while managing to convey animation as well as soothing richness, this reveals a subtly different emphasis with each compulsive sip and wave of finishing flavor. A beautiful tribute to its vintage and cepage, this should reward attention through at least 2028. 97 points. David Schildknecht, Wine Advocate April 2014
2011 F.X. PICHLER UNENDLICH RIESLING MAGNUM RRP $636
2015 PITTNAUER DOGMA ROSÉ MAGNUM RRP $107
Leering, lurid garnet colour. Lively with cherry pip, maraschino cherry aromas. Shows some spice and ruby grapefruit lift in perfume too. Palate is crunchy, tangy, more of the bright cherry kind of feel, so refreshing, so thirst crushing, feels just so darn good to drink. A little rub of tannin and extra tang to finish. Stacks to like here. 93 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front December 2016
2013 PITTNAUER DOGMA ST LAURENT MAGNUM RRP $99
Liquid cherry jam spiked with cinnamon, cumin spice. Spot on. Cool and refreshing red wine of perky acidity, amaro sweet-sour, pomegranate crunch to close. It’s vibrant, vital, light on, so smashable. It’s not cerebral, nor is it trying to be, it invites you in instead and says ‘lay on the couch with your shoes on’. Welcoming freshness in red wine. Hello summer. 91 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front August 2016
2015 MORIC BURGENLAND BLAUFRÄNKISCH MAGNUM RRP $91
Wet earth and smoke, blueberry and ripe cherry, Dutch liquorice, plenty of spice too. Medium bodied, mineral water feel to the acidity (perhaps makes sense when/if you taste it, but work with me…), purple fruit like mulberry and boysenberry, a pleasing burr of fleshy tannin lending grip, dry and savoury to close, with that pippy kind of just-ripe berry acidity to kick it along. It’s a wine with a pulse, and heaps of character. 93 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front June 2017
2011 MORIC BURGENLAND BLAUFRÄNKISCH MAGNUM RRP $102
Dark garnet with violet highlights. Herbal cherry, plum, brown spices and an earthy nuance on the nose. Ripe redcurrant flavors are supported by refreshing acidity. Well balanced on the finish. 88 points. Joel B. Payne, Vinous Media December 2013