Scorpo sits comfortably in the highest rank of wines from the Mornington Peninsula – or any of Australia’s cool-climate regions, for that matter. It’s been there for years, yet somehow seems like a slow-burning success. It’s been a little quiet about it, perhaps that’s why. But wine writers are vociferously unequivocal. We thought we ought to speak up, too. This has been a true, from-the-ground-up project. The planning, planting, nurturing and honing of the vineyard absorb the attention of trained horticulturist and landscape architect Paul Scorpo. The process of perfecting the site continues, of course, with closer plantings and more precise clonal selections the latest developments.
The vineyard rolls over red/brown, clay-rich soils derived from tertiary Eocene volcanics dating back about 40 million years. The vines are planted at an altitude of between 70 and 100m on a north- to northeast-facing slope with a 10% gradient. It’s a brilliant suntrap with ideal drainage to slowly grow and ripen grapes. The celebrated Pinot Gris is planted both here and on the other side of the ridge – the southwest-exposed slope towards Port Phillip Bay.
All the while he’s been quietly refining his beloved site, the wines have been garnering effusive praise across the board. These aren’t just consistent across the range and through the years; they’re consistently imbued with nuance, depth and texture. They are wines which – without ever raising their voice – resonate equally with the mind and senses, as the words below attest.
“Paul Scorpo has a well-deserved reputation for his Pinot Gris, and this isn’t going to let him down.” James Halliday on the 2015.
“An archetype of modern Australian chardonnay, in all its rip-roaring deliciousness.” Campbell Mattinson on the ’15 Aubaine.
“It takes excellence and challenges it to reach higher.” Campbell Mattinson on 2010 Estate Chardonnay.
“This is goooooood.” Mike Bennie on the same.
“I really, really like good rosé. Not a bad thing having Paul Scorpo at the helm of one.” Mike Bennie on the ’15.
“It feels skilful. It tastes terrific.” Halliday Wine Companion on 2015 Noirien.
“Tasted this early last year – loved it – and have been meaning to review it here. It looks every bit as lovely a year on.” Campbell Mattinson on 2014 Estate Pinot.
“In excellent form, as is the entire Scorpo range.” James Halliday on the ’10 Old Vine Shiraz
THE WINES
2015 Scorpo Pinot Gris RRP $36
Very pale pink; Paul Scorpo has a well-deserved reputation for his Pinot Gris, and this isn’t going to let him down. Clear pear/poached pear fruit provides excellent mouthfeel, and the finish is long and well structured. 14% alc. 95 points. Halliday Wine Companion 2017
The Mornington region has this gastronomic PG thing really happening, and here’s more proof. This wine’s initial florals reveal woody herbal and native bush notes, the fruit profile building with poached, spiced pear characters then lifted again with a sense of white pepper. This serious pinot gris is richly rewarding, and balances power with delightful vitality. 4.5/5 stars. Tony Love, Herald Sun
2015 Scorpo Aubaine Chardonnay RRP $32
It has a come-hither aspect but the back half is elegant and long. A class act. Beautiful white peach, apple and pear with seamless integration of cedary/spicy oak. Delightful. 95 points. Halliday Wine Companion 2017
An archetype of modern Australian chardonnay, in all its rip-roaring deliciousness.
It flows so well. It feels so soft. It has backbone but it coats it in velvet. White peach, green apple, fresh/juicy pears, all infused with spicy/cedary oak. It draws you in, keeps you there, and then sets you sailing on the finish. 94 points. Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
2012 Scorpo Estate Chardonnay RRP $45
It takes excellence and challenges it to reach higher. It’s complex and flinty with grapefruit and white peach flavours running pure and bright from start to finish. Fennel and cream notes play throughout, as do struck match/sulphide characters. 4 years young. Brilliant. 97 points. Halliday Wine Companion 2017
From Merricks North in Mornington Peninsula. The wine is fermented in new and old oak, then sulphured to stop malolactic fermentation occurring, and is left on lees without stirring – Scorpo house style. I like that they are released with age too, which also suits the lean, fresh intent of the wines.
Moreish scents of nougat, light cashew nut whiffs, green apple, citrus peel, cinnamon. The palate is cool and restrained but shows a juiciness and light spice that ripples into mouthwatering acidity and clean, wet pebble-like mineral finish. Fine, gentle gloss to texture too. This is goooooood. 94+ points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2013 Scorpo Eocene Chardonnay RRP $55
Paul Scorpo’s top selection of Chardonnay from his vineyard, made only in exceptional vintages.
2015 Scorpo Rosé RRP $32
It’s pippy and spicy and strawberried, its pale salmon colour at one with its savoury/elegant personality. Cracks of fennel build on the charm. 94 points. Halliday Wine Companion 2017
I really, really like good rosé. Not a bad thing having Paul Scorpo at the helm of one. Pinot Noir is the grape used, but that is by-the-by.
Pale garnet coloured, pretty to look at. Dive into watermelon and raspberry scents, whiffs of floral things, sniff of tobacco and spice. Light in red berry and spice flavour but has fullness of texture to back it up – indeed, delicacy is refreshing and an asset. Light chew of tannin seals the deal. Rosé lovers apply here. 93 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2015 Scorpo Noirien Pinot Noir RRP $32
The word integration springs to the front of your mind. This is meaty, spicy and complex but it carries the various facets easily along with it, the fruit flowing at a fair clip. It feels skilful. It tastes terrific. 95 points. Halliday Wine Companion 2017
Someone asked me, off record, what I thought about Scorpo wines the other day, and I only had good things to say. Been a while since I laid eyes on Paul Scorpo too, but with a WineFront regional tasting in the making for October, that may just be solved. Anyway, Noirien is the lighter-shade-of-Scorpo pinot noir, let’s say. It’s still pretty serious.
Good release this. Shies away from fruitiness and settles into earth, briar, undergrowth and even a whiff of chookshed before revealing red and black berry fruits. The palate is light, delicate, firm with ribs of tannin, finishes mouthwatering and tight. Technoboobs will love saying this wine is ‘reductive’, but that just means you need more time with it open or in glass. It’s a firm, chewy, light red wine of pinot prettiness underlying. Good. 92+ points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
2014 Scorpo Estate Pinot Noir RRP $52
This is taking the slow road to maturity, due to small bunches and berries, ex rain-ravaged flowering. The depth & balance to its black cherry & foresty tannins assure rewards to those who are patient. 95 points. Halliday Wine Companion 2017
Tasted this early last year – loved it – and have been meaning to review it here. It looks every bit as lovely a year on.
It’s meaty and substantial but it has class written all over it. Foresty red/black cherries, mineral, a spread of spice and smoky, polished, seductive oak. It feels complete, it feels complex, it feels delicious. Not a bad combination. Length is exemplary too. 95 points. Campbell Mattinson, The Wine Front
2010 Scorpo Old Vine Shiraz RRP $52
In excellent form, as is the entire Scorpo range. White pepper melts into black cherry-plum and woodsmoke. Offers a good burst of ripe fruit but it’s characterised by its pepperiness. Spicy tannin spins through the finish. I can’t recall a better Scorpo shiraz. 95 points. Halliday Wine Companion 2016