It’s precisely two years since we began working with the Labruyère family to bring you these refined burgundies from some of the most exalted parcels on the Côtes d’Or.
Once again winemaker Nadine Gublin and the team have shown their sensitivity in translating the land and the vintage conditions in a very special range of wines. The exceptional mildness and sunshine of March and the first fortnight of April led to rapid development of the vines. The drop in temperatures at the end of April had no consequence and, unlike 2016, the vineyard was spared frost.
With temperatures still high, vine development during the vegetation phase was meteoric (early and rapid flowering at the end of May-beginning of June and “lightning” veraison, completed on August 10th).
With a very warm end of August interspersed with rainy intervals, the grape ripening process accelerated and 2017 enters the ranks of the earliest vintages since the beginning of the 2000s. Harvest began on August 29th.
2017 REDS – Premier Cru
2017 Jacques Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Santenots RRP $289
0.59Ha plot within Jacques Prieur’s Clos des Santenots monopole, with vines planted in 1997.
The 2017 Volnay Santenots 1er Cru comes from the younger vines, around 22-years old from the Clos des Santenots. This is completely de-stemmed. It has an attractive bouquet with violet and iris scents infusing the black cherry and cassis fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, gentle in terms of grip, not enormously complex but it has a lilting quality that will make it attractive in its youth. 87-89 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
A more obviously floral-infused nose displays cool nuances of tangerine peel, pear and a hint of matchstick. There is both better volume and richness to the generously proportioned flavors that possess good underlying tension if only average depth on the refreshing finish. 89-91 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Pommard 1er Cru Les Charmots RRP $372
100% Pinot Noir from holdings of 0.27 hectares, coming from two small parcels located on the mid-slope overlooking the 1er cru Les Epenots. The site has ideal east exposure on a well-drained, shallow, stony soil consisting of marly limestone. 21 days in the open wooden vat at controlled temperature; plunged twice a day during alcoholic fermentation. 17 months’ élevage in oak.
The 2017 Pommard Les Charmots 1er Cru matures with 100% whole bunches. It has a fresh, almost “airy” bouquet with blackberry, iodine and a light incense aroma. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin. This is quite masculine and “rigid” at the moment, the whole bunch addition lending pepperiness and spiciness towards the extended finish. Give this three or four years in bottle for it to fully integrate. 88-90 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
Here too there is a discreet application of wood to be found on the softly spicy and quite floral-scented nose of essence of dark currant. The succulent, round and caressing flavors deliver fine length though not quite the same depth though that may well develop as this ages. 89-92 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Beaune 1er Cru Clos de la Féguine Rouge RRP $207
1.59Ha plot on a very steep slope with south exposure. Thin, light brown, light loamy and clay-limestone soil over lots of cracked limestone running through. Perfect drainage. 100% destemmed. Élevage 16 months.
The 2017 Beaune Clos de la Féguine 1er Cru is a monopole and it is completely de-stemmed. It has a fresh, clean raspberry and cranberry scented bouquet with hints of vanilla pod. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine line of acidity, well structured with a brisk, minerally finish. Good potential – I expect this to land towards the top of my banded score. 89-91 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
Here too a discreet application of wood surrounds the cooler and airier aromas of pure green apple and citrus rind scents. The racy and well-detailed flavors possess both better volume and a chalky texture, all wrapped in a stony, very dry, crisp and iodine-infused finish that is vaguely Chablis-like. This is quite tightly wound and will benefit from at least a year or two of bottle age first and should ultimately reward 5 to 8. 89-91 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Beaune 1er Cru Champs-Pimont Rouge RRP $190
This large plot with the name meaning “fields at the foot of the hill” climbs the hillside behind Beaune, towards Pommard. This vines have full south exposure, and produce both white and red wine. The Pinot Noir in its lower part has plenty of clay in the soil, giving powerful wines with colour, while the high proportion of iron often brings out smoky notes. 30% new oak.
The 2017 Beaune Champs Pimonts 1er Cru matures with 20% whole bunches. The fruit here is darker, a little more opulent than the Clos de la Féguine, yet still well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry offset by the quite rigid tannins that frame this Beaune, the finish quite precise and with commendable brightness. 89-91 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
A discreet application of wood sets off the red and dark raspberry aromas that offer up wisps of underbrush and spice. Here too there is a beguiling mouth feel to the enveloping medium weight flavors that possess a velvety texture along with plenty of minerality that really comes up on the youthfully austere and softly rustic finish. This is slightly less refined but there is more depth and more aging potential. 90-92 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru RRP $380
0.49 hectare plot with full east exposure, with deep, highly evolved soil that is brown on the surface and has large blocks of cracked limestone in the subsoil. 20 months’ élevage. Three of the eight barrels were new.
This is aromatically quite similar to the Gevrey 1er though with a broader panoply of spice elements. There is more obvious minerality as well as better size, weight and power to the tautly muscular flavors that display excellent focus and drive on the linear, youthfully austere and firmly structured finish. 91-94 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 REDS – Grand Cru
2017 Jacques Prieur Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru RRP $520
Clay dominates this terroir, which produces powerful and structured wines which are a little rustic in their early youth. Jacques Prieur’s roughly 1Ha is “at the top of the bottom of the Clos”
The 2017 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru includes 20% whole bunches this year. It has a slight mintiness on the nose, quite generous if not as complex as the Corton-Bressandes tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite strict and fresh with a chalky texture, and a slightly curmudgeonly finish. Give this three to four years in bottle to lighten up. 90-92 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
Moderate wood influence isn’t subtle though neither does it interfere with the spicy and ripe aromas of warm earth and poached plum. The attractively rich and velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors conclude in a bitter chocolate and warm finish. This is awkward today and while my range offers the benefit of the doubt, this was not an especially good showing. 88-91 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Échezeaux Grand Cru RRP $1568
100% Pinot Noir from a 0.36 hectare plot in the “Champs Traversins”, in the heart of historic Echézeaux. It’s a north-south planting just outside the Combe d’Orveau. Brown soil, not particularly thick. Pebbles on the surface, very fine and sandy/siliceous. Nice micro-climate, very airy, fresh, healthy with a small stream of fresh air. The grapes were harvested by hand then sorted and totally destemmed. Fermentation lasted 21 days at a controlled temperature in wooden vats. 18 months’ ageing.
The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru is completely de-stemmed. It has a slightly conservative bouquet with pure dark cherry and cranberry aromas, but does not quite deliver the nuance and complexity of the best wines from this vineyard in 2017. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, but very strict and stoic, tight-lipped towards the finish. Hopefully this will gain more personality once it is in bottle. 90-91 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
An overtly spicy nose features notes of Asian-style tea, sandalwood, cassis and lovely floral hints. The caressing yet entirely serious medium weight plus flavors possess good density for the vintage, all wrapped in a surprisingly powerful and lengthy finish. 91-93 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Musigny Grand Cru RRP $2310
It’s of the greatest terroirs of the Côte de Nuits on a fault overlooking the Clos de Vougeot and adjoining the Combe d’Orveau. With a southeast exposure and a confined, sunny micro-climate, the parcel has thin, light soil with a strong presence of stones, guaranteeing good drainage. 100% destemmed. Aged in new oak barrels for 20 months.
The 2017 Musigny Grand Cru, which is completely de-stemmed, has a very sensual and generous bouquet with very pretty black cherries, raspberry preserve, overripe Satsuma and mineral scents that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannin, more backward than the aromatics at the moment but very well balanced with super-fine tannin framing the feminine and quite persistent finish. Good potential here. 92-94 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
A reserved and grudging blend features notes of jasmine tea, red and dark raspberry, lavender and an exotic spice nuance. The silky and refined big-bodied flavors possess excellent volume if not quite the same power as I’m used to seeing but the length is first-rate on the beautifully harmonious finish that is shaped by a firm core of tightly wound tannins. Patience will definitely be necessary. 92-94 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Chambertin Grand Cru RRP $1485
0.49Ha plot with deep and highly evolved soil, brown on the surface. Large blocks of cracked limestone below; full east exposure. Totally destemmed and with 18 days at controlled temperature in wooden vats; pigeage twice a day during the active phase of the alcoholic fermentation. Élevage in 100% new oak for 20 months.
The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru, which is completely de-stemmed, has quite an understated, elegant bouquet for this vineyard, hints of salted liquorice infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin – an assertive Chambertin that feels strict and, unlike the aromatics, quite penetrating. Yet, I seek a little more nuance and preferably more red fruit towards the finish. It just needs to loosen its tie. 90-92 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Media January 2019
This is aromatically quite similar to the Gevrey 1er though with a broader panoply of spice elements. There is more obvious minerality as well as better size, weight and power to the tautly muscular flavors that display excellent focus and drive on the linear, youthfully austere and firmly structured finish. 91-94 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 WHITES – Regional
2017 Jacques Prieur Bourgogne Chardonnay RRP $91
From vines close to the domaine in Meursault. No new oak.
There are whiffs of matchstick and petrol to the airy and fresh aromas of citrus and green apple. The attractively vibrant and well-detailed flavors possess a lovely texture with very good depth and persistence for a wine at this level. Young vines or not, this is really quite good and worth your interest. 87 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 WHITES – Village
2017 Jacques Prieur Meursault Clos de Mazeray Village Monopole RRP $207
Large (2.87Ha) walled vineyard in Meursault with soil of chalky clay-limestone laid on an old river bed. 10% new oak, though most of the wine is in large barrels resembling Alsace foudres. 20 months’ élevage.
A very Meursault-like nose offers up notes of hazelnut, various white orchard fruit and soft lemon zest nuances. There is both excellent volume and richness to the sappy and seductively textured medium weight flavors that deliver fine length on the refreshing finish. This generously proportioned effort isn’t especially refined but it delivers fine quality for its level. 89 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 WHITES – Premier Cru
2017 Jacques Prieur Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes RRP $330
Facing south-east, this 1.5 hectare plot has clay-limestone soil with a strong presence of pebbles. Whole bunch-pressed, settled over 12 to 14 hours and then full barrel fermentation (about 30% new). 100% MLF. 17 months’ élevage.
Here too the wood toast influence isn’t subtle as it includes discreet notes of vanilla on the markedly floral aromas that include wisps of lilac, lavender, acacia and gardenia along with mildly exotic fruit nuances. The very rich, succulent and borderline opulent medium-bodied flavors coat the palate with copious dry extract that also buffers the moderately firm acid spine shaping the bitter lemon-inflected finish. This is both stylish and classy and should amply reward up to a decade of cellaring; besides it will need at least a few years to integrate the wood. 90-93 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 WHITES – Grand Cru
2017 Jacques Prieur Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru RRP $1485
0.13-hectare parcel. Upper slope, full eastern exposure. Soil thin, stony. Outcrop of white marl. Harvested by hand in small crates, then whole bunches are pressed in a pneumatic press. The juice is cold settled after pressing for 12 to 14 hours. Alcoholic fermentation and ageing are 100% in new oak barrels. Full MLF. Élevage of 21 months.
A distinctly leesy nose is firmly reduced. Otherwise there is both good freshness and verve to the concentrated, powerful and quite serious large-scaled and mouth coating flavors that flash evident minerality on the driving, structured and impressively long finish. This is a big Chevalier that will definitely need at least 5-ish years to become civilized and very likely 10 to 12 to reveal its full potential. 91-94 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Montrachet Grand Cru RRP $2558
From a 0.59-hectare parcel. Very sunny, mid-slope, perfect drainage. East/southeast exposure. Thin, stony soil, higher in sodium. Outcrop of white marl. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates, then whole bunches are pressed in a pneumatic press. The juice is cold settled after pressing for 12 to 14 hours. Alcoholic fermentation and ageing are 100% in new oak barrels. Full MLF. Élevage of 21 months.
This too is quite leesy and impossible to read today. More interesting are the bigger, rich and more muscular broad-shouldered flavors that deliver superb depth and persistence on the equally driving and hugely long finish. This carries its imposing weight effortlessly and while it’s no ballerina, the fine balance and proportions impress me. 92-95 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019
2017 Jacques Prieur Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru RRP $825
From a 0.22-hectare parcel located on the hill of Corton. Oriented full east, it overlooks the villages of Ladoix-Serrigny and climbs to the edge of the woods. Steep and very chalky, a guarantee of intense minerality. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates, airbag- pressed as whole bunche. Cold settled after pressing for 12 to 14 hours. 100% in new oak barrels. Full MLF. Élevage of 21 months.
The airy, cool and restrained nose is wonderfully pure with its essence of green apple, acacia blossom, wet stone and discreet spice and chalk whiffs. The tautly muscular big-bodied flavors are blessed with both an abundance of dry extract as well as almost painful intensity before culminating in a stony, balanced and once again hugely long finish. This beauty is one the best examples of 2017 Corton-Charlemagne. 92-95 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2019