All in all, Dönnhoff presented a beautiful collection this year.
Svelteness, lightness and expressiveness are inherent.
Anne Krebiehl, Vinous
We always thought Helmut Dönnhoff was the epitome of unwavering calm, a guy with the Jedi skill to land a wine at pinpoint balance just by thinking about it. We long since learned—and his cool self-assurance in the face of 2024’s most devastating frost in at least three generations is just the latest proof—that the force is strong in Cornelius. “All in all, Dönnhoff presented a beautiful collection this year,” wrote Anne Krebiehl MW of Vinous. “Svelteness, lightness and expressiveness are inherent.” As if it were ever in doubt.
Almost all the shoots in the Dönnhoff grand-cru vineyards were destroyed between 22nd and 24th April, when temperatures dropped dramatically to below -6°C. The impact on yields across the domaine was catastrophic. Cornelius shrugs it off; they’ve always had frosts here, though earlier budburst due to climate change is putting the vines right in the firing line.
But Cornelius and the team did what they do, composing wines of crystalline brilliance that are microscopically trained on the dirt they grew in. It’s easy to forget that the villages of Schlossböckelheim, Niederhausen, Norheim and Oberhausen lie within a radius of three kilometres, so different are the site expressions. Even Roxheim, where the Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg GG comes from, is about six clicks away as the crow flies. The furthest, about 10km distant, is Bad Kreuznach, where the excellent ’24 Kahlenberg premier cru hails from. But the Dönnhoff genius is to understand the talent of each vineyard, and distil it into its purest essence.
Ironically, you have the frost to thank for showing this gift in a new light. On a recent trip to Melbourne, Rheinhessen guru Philipp Wittmann neatly articulated the Dönnhoff way. “They’re the most elegant wines I know from Germany in these styles, and Cornelius figured out how to produce dry-style Riesling with a lot of texture, with a lot of density and vibration and amazing mineral-type characteristics. He gets it to have ripeness on the one hand and be extremely elegant on the other.”
The praise is apt, since Philipp was one of two close friends who offered Cornelius Riesling grapes from 2024 to offset some of the losses in the Nahe. Nicola Libelli of Dr Bürklin-Wolf in the Pfalz did the same. Hence, we are able to offer village wines from Westhofen and Wachenheim from this harvest. The grapes were picked by Cornelius’s team and vinified à la Dönnhoff at home in Oberhausen.
“And from the beginning, there was this question, which was very interesting for all of us,” Cornelius told us. “If it was Philipp or Bürklin-Wolf or me, what do you see more? Is it the handwriting of us, of the estate of Dönnhoff, of how we do things, or is it terroir?”
Pondering that is a tantalising proposition, especially when it can be done with a glass of Dönnhoff—from the Nahe, Rheinhessen or Pfalz—in your hand.
That opportunity, as well as a chance to taste these sublime new GGs, is yours for the taking…
2024 Dönnhoff Westhofener Riesling RRP $86
The 2024 Dönnhoff Westhofener Riesling is one of the most intriguing releases of the vintage. Born from the devastating spring frosts that dramatically reduced yields across the Nahe, this wine represents a unique collaboration between two of Germany’s greatest estates. Sourced from organically farmed vineyards in Westhofen, Rheinhessen, including parcels within Kirchspiel and Steingrube cultivated by Philipp Wittmann, the fruit was harvested and vinified by Cornelius Dönnhoff, resulting in a wine that beautifully marries the limestone-driven character of Westhofen with the precision and elegance synonymous with Dönnhoff.
The 2024 Westhofener Riesling trocken VDP.Ortswein was sourced in the Kirchspiel and the Steingrube, two parcels that are cultivated organically by Philipp Wittmann in Rheinhessen. This unique wine is intended to help compensate for the dramatic losses suffered by the Dönnhoff family last spring due to frost. The lemony nose represents the calcareous clay terroir in Westhofen and pairs depth and intensity with limestone finesse and citric fruit aromas. The way to the style and flavours of the middle Nahe couldn’t be any clearer. On the palate, this is a mouth-filling, very intense, savoury, racy and persistently saline and finely tannic Riesling with remarkable intensity and length. It is here where the terroir dominates the producer style, at least the Westhofen character is more prominent here than Dönnhoff’s signature. This is a superb dry Riesling from Westhofen and highly recommended to any Riesling aficionado. 12% stated alcohol. Bottled and tasted in April 2025. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate May 2025
2024 Dönnhoff Wachenheimer Riesling RRP $86
A first from Pfalz—and a genuine collaborative effort. The 2024 Wachenheimer Riesling was made possible thanks to the generous support of the Dr Bürklin-Wolf estate, which granted us access to first-class parcels in Wachenheim. The summer vineyard work was carried out by the Bürklin-Wolf team, carefully managed and farmed according to their philosophy. For the harvest, we travelled with our own team and brought in the fruit in autumn. Vinification then took place in our cellar in Oberhausen. – Cornelius Dönnhoff
Dönnhoff’s 2024 Wachenheimer Riesling trocken VDP.Ortswein is sourced from two vineyards (Gerümpel and Rechbächel) from Dr Bürklin-Wolf in the Pfalz to help compensate for the dramatic losses suffered by the Dönnhoff family last spring due to frost. The vineyard has been cultivated by Bürklin, but the grapes were harvested and processed à la Dönnhoff in Oberhausen/Nahe. The wine is pure, refined and crystalline on the nose and has a 100% Dönnhoff character. Salinity and purity intertwine with ripe yellow fruit aromas and the character of coloured sandstone. Round and juicy on the palate, this medium-bodied, more textured than crystalline dry Riesling has intense yellow plum flavours on the finish and aftertaste. The acidity is ripe and elegant, less savoury and saline perhaps than in Niederhausen, Norheim or Schlossböckelheim but very elegant. Dönnhoff’s first Pfalz Riesling is a fascinating case study inside the Dönnhoff world and doubtlessly an excellent Pfalz Riesling with Dönnhoff’s signature. Let the wine breathe for a while or at least give it some time to open up. 11.5% stated alcohol. Bottled and tasted in April this year. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate May 2025
2024 Dönnhoff Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling Erste Lage RRP $96
First mentioned by name in 1499, the Kahlenberg vineyard has a long and venerable history. It has served for generations as the reference site for the former Royal Prussian Institute of Pomology and Viticulture when making official recommendations to winegrowers in the region. The slope faces due south, with Riesling vines growing here in a bed of gravelly loam soil that gives their wines an oft-noted spicy character. This is a dry Riesling infused with charm, elegance and a beguilingly spicy Riesling bouquet.
An extremely cool and elegant wine for this vineyard site, which can give quite round wines. Delicately pithy on the mid-palate, then the lemon character and crisp acidity kicks in. Long, very clean finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. 94 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling Aug 2025
Grosses Gewächs
A masterpiece of power and elegance that has incredible lightness,
yet with fantastic power in the finish. 98 points.
jamessuckling.com
2024 Dönnhoff ‘Hermannshöhle’ Grosses Gewächs Riesling RRP $240
The 2024 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs is a profound expression of what is widely regarded as the Nahe’s greatest vineyard. This legendary site, consistently recognised as the highest-rated vineyard in the Nahe, occupies a dramatic south-facing amphitheatre overlooking the Nahe River. Its complex mosaic of weathered grey slate, volcanic rock and limestone inclusions creates the perfect conditions for producing Rieslings of extraordinary depth, finesse and longevity. The vines, some up to 65 years old, yield a modest 40 hl/ha, concentrating flavour and site character in every berry. In the frost-affected 2024 vintage, dramatically reduced yields have further heightened the wine’s intensity and precision, resulting in a Grosses Gewächs of exceptional pedigree and site transparency.
A masterpiece of power and elegance that has incredible lightness, yet with fantastic power in the finish. I love the delicate peach and peach blossom aromas. This carries the high acidity of the vintage beautifully, but your patience will be rewarded. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. 98 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com Aug 2025
The 2024 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs is from vines planted in 1949 on shale with some calcareous inclusions. Just 1,500 kg per hectare were harvested, about 8% less than usual. This is already luminous, even as barrel sample, with sumptuousness, poise and grace. A ripe lemon juice note flows and stays the course in a straight line, taking over and filling out the mouth and mind. Its exquisite ripeness is depicted in the most svelte shape with crystalline clarity. (Bone-dry) 95–97 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous Jun 2025
Exceptionally refined and racy, this has terrific Amalfi lemon freshness and white peach fruit
on the very focused, medium-bodied palate. 98 points.
Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com
2024 Dönnhoff ‘Dellchen’ Grosses Gewächs Riesling RRP $231
A historic steeply sloping vineyard that Dönnhoff awoke from its slumber. Steep terraces in a hollow with slate and porphyry soils. The vines are about 20 years old and yield about 35hl/ha. 100% selective hand harvest. The must ferments and the wine matures in classic wooden barrels and stainless-steel vats. Vigorously spicy and at the same time dancingly elegant with great depth and a fascinating charisma.
Exceptionally refined and racy, this has terrific Amalfi lemon freshness and white peach fruit on the very focused, medium-bodied palate. Incredible drive in the super-long finish. The aromatic finesse of the wild flower, peach and Amalfi lemon nose is almost as great as the textural finesse. Incredible delicacy in the super-long finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. 98 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com Aug 2025
The 2024 Riesling Norheimer Dellchen Grosses Gewächs was made in tiny quantities this year. It is from a porphyry site with shale cover. Flint, herb and lemon aromas come together in a most enticing combination. The palate is taut, svelte and luminous. Stony and fine, elegance runs through it like sunlight, heightening the citric freshness imbued with peppery, zesty savour. The 2024 is so linear and bright yet completely ripe. Cornelius says that they picked just 1,500 kg per hectare. (Bone-dry). 94–96 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous Jun 2025
2024 Dönnhoff Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling RRP $199
The 2024 Dönnhoff Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg Grosses Gewächs is a compelling expression of one of the Nahe’s most distinctive Riesling sites. Sourced from the finest parcels within the steep, red-sandstone slopes of Roxheimer Höllenpfad, this Grosses Gewächs derives its character from weathered Rotliegend sandstone soils that impart a remarkable combination of intensity, spice, and mineral precision. In a vintage marked by severe spring frost and dramatically reduced yields, the wine captures both the concentration and classical structure that define the finest wines of 2024.
Such an elegant wine, with sensational balance of stony minerality and very fine peachy fruit. All the flavors of the peach from white to red via yellow. Super-long and elegant finish with great finesse. From organically grown grapes with Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. 96 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com Aug 2025
The 2024 Riesling Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlberg Grosses Gewächs, from the very heart of this red Permian sandstone site, tingles with a sense of pepper on the nose. The palate is beautifully clear and luminous, only revealing tender notions of the usually herbal savour as shimmering touches of tansy and yarrow. This is like a sublimation of Riesling. It’s ultra-light, ultra-bright and so deeply rooted in stone. (Bone-dry). 93–95 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous Jun 2025
