A light breeze of floral & herbal aromas drifting across from a summer meadow. Quite exquisite.
Michael Schmidt on ’18 Pettenthal GG
2018 Gunderloch Fritz’s Riesling RRP $23
Fritz’s Riesling grows in a very small and special part of Rheinhessen called the Roter Hang, a name meaning “red hill“ due to its red-slate soils. The Roter Hang is located between the village of Nackenheim and the village of Nierstein, 20km south of the city of Mainz. The red colour comes from a high proportion of minerals and iron in the soil. The vineyards are very close to the river Rhine, face south-east and they have steep slopes. The combination of those four factors – the red slate soil, the proximity to the river, the exposure to the sun and the steepness of the vineyards – are perfect for producing wonderful ripeness. The wine shows lovely stone fruit, fresh natural acidity, spice and aromatic lift. Dry, fresh and full of character.
2018 Gunderloch Red Stone Riesling RRP $32
Lovely smoky herbal note of the ferment, fruity, smoky and cool. Not particularly long but precise, bright with grapefruit. A great introduction to off-dry Riesling. 16/20 Julia Harding MW, JancisRobinson.com May 2019
2018 Gunderloch Jean Baptiste Riesling Kabinett RRP $36
From the Rothenberg, Pettenthal and Hipping vineyards. Chervil, lemon and grapefruit peel on the nose express the Roter Hang spiciness. Citrus zestiness with a juicy but tart red apple sweetness in a classic off-dry style that pivots on Riesling’s incomparable freshness. Slender-bodied, and dangerously easy to drink. 93 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Decanter Magazine July 2019
2018 Gunderloch Als Wär’s Ein Stück Von Mir Riesling RRP $43
For Johannes Hasselbach’s “A piece of me”, he decided to push an imaginary reset-button and look back at how his grandparents made wine. The focus is on the grapes and he wants to use every part of them (e.g. long maceration time on fully crushed grapes up to 72 hours; minimal clarification; natural yeast fermentation; long time on lees) but he also wants to make sure not to lose or alter anything (no artificial yeasts; no fining; no aromatisation of any kind). 100% healthy fruit comes from young vines in the top site Nackenheimer Rothenberg, blended with grapes from a parcel of 35-year-old vines from Hipping in Nierstein to create a tautly strung wine with extraordinary aromatic expression.
2018 Gunderloch Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $108
The grapes for this wine grow in the steepest parcels of the Pettenthal grand-cru vineyard in Nierstein, on the imposing Roter Hang slopes of crumbly red slate.
This has richness and density to it with rich, apple and pear-pastry aromas, as well as a fine, perfumed layer. The palate has smoothly resolved, dry-apple and lime-juice flavors with a smooth, quite long and fresh finish. Drink or hold. Screw cap. 92 points. Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com December 2019
On the nose the Pettenthal is still a bit shy, a light breeze of floral and herbal aromas drifting across from a summer meadow. Also still quite gentle on the palate, but already revealing glimpses of citrus fruit and peel, and expertly punctuated by a slightly medicinal notion of green herbs and quinine. Quite exquisite. 18.5/20 Michael Schmidt, JancisRobinson.com August 2019
2018 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $117
MAGNUM LUC $184.90
The Rothenberg grand-cru vineyard encompasses about 20 hectares directly on the Rhine River on the north end of the “Roter Hang” between Nackenheim and Nierstein. Around five hectares of this comprise the heart of the Rothenberg. The vineyard has a slope of 30 to 80% and comprises 290-million-year-old red shale plates. The Hasselbach family of Gunderloch Estate own around 4.5 hectares of this prime vineyard made up predominantly of very steep parcels. Just one small parcel of no more than 20 rows producing the highest quality of grapes are devoted to this wine.
Scintillating pink-grapefruit aromas with breathtaking clarity and purity that reaches ethereal heights. The palate has a smooth and supple build with such attractive, fresh and defined, ripe lemons and grapefruit. Measured acidity, great depth and detail. Drink or hold. 95 points. Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com December 2019
Quite ethereal fragrance of ripe green fruit, citrusy aromas and a fine spicy notion. On the palate the fruit is fairly sweet, but also zesty with pink grapefruit and a dash of exotic spice. In keeping with the vintage the texture is generous, but given clear contours by a tactile phenolic edge. 18/20 Michael Schmidt, JancisRobinson.com August 2019
ALSO AVAILABLE, IN LIMITED QUANTITIES
2017 Gunderloch Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $107
Still closed, though there’s plenty of smoke and fresh parsley on the nose. This sleek beauty has wonderful elegance on the palate and a long, racy finish with a ton of herbs and wild berries. Try in 2019. Screw cap. 95 points. Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com September 2018
2016 Gunderloch Pettenthal Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $96
Still rather closed this is a very concentrated wine with a beautiful balance that makes it taste less powerful than it really is. Major minerality at the very long, powerful finish. And all this at just 12.5% alcohol. Better from 2018. 95 points. Stuart Pigott, jamesuckling.com September 2017
2017 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $107
Deep and complex with plenty of smoke and hot, dry-stone character. The mineral energy of this wine is enormous and there isn’t a hint of opulence to stand in its way. Super-long and firm finish. This is as original as it gets. Try in 2019. Screw cap. 96 points. Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com September 2018
2016 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $107
A super-elegant and filigree wine that is both deep and finely-etched with a very long pure finish that’s as straight as a laser beam! Best from 2018. 95 points. Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com September 2017
2014 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Grosses Gewächs RRP $96
Terra rossa is not unique to the Coonawarra but alive and well in the Rothenberg of Rheinhessen too. I have never found the same fascinating composition of pink grapefruit and spice in any Riesling from anywhere else, a powerful argument for terroir. Gunderloch’s Grosses Gewächs makes full use of this special attribute and throws in a subtle note of zesty lemon peel for good measure. 18/20. Michael Schmidt, jancisrobinson.com June 2015
2016 Gunderloch Rothenberg Riesling Auslese 375ml RRP $70
Lush and exotic in the nose, but oh so racy and brilliant on the palate, this is a stunning Auslese with a mineral finish that is filigree and intense. Best from 2018 through 2040. 95 points. Stuart Pigott, JamesSuckling.com September 2017