A striking wine that has such intensity, length and complexity, yet somehow manages to deliver a very elegant, pure and focused style… Impressive in every respect.”
Nick Stock on ‘18 Kellerberg Riesling
RIESLING
2016 F.X. Pichler Riesling Burgstall Federspiel RRP $64
The single vineyard Burgstall stretches on a high plateau featuring pure gneiss and granite soils with blown-in sands on top. The name comes from a small fortification built in the Middle Ages to defend the farm animals against raiders. It was mentioned in the chronicles as early as 1248. This sun-pampered and breezy vineyard is most suitable for lacy, fruit-driven and purist Rieslings in the Federspiel range.
Strong scents of lemon and lemon curd, green herb, anise. The palate has a light spritz in the nicest possible way, zingy as acidity lifting more of the lemon juice and lemon curd richness, with flavours long and suggestive through the wine. A touch of wax/honeycomb to finish lends complexity. Interesting expression. 93 points. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front April, 2019
2018 F.X. Pichler Riesling Steinertal Smaragd RRP $119
This single vineyard is located on the eastern end of Wachau, between the Loibenberg and Pfaffenberg sites. It is a small valley section composed of a deeply deposited, weathered gneiss soil. The resulting wine shows off aromas and flavours of vineyard peaches and impresses by its raciness and finesse. It is succulent and displays high drinkability, and is most distinctly characterised by the minerality of the primitive rock soil, which suggests a long future for this.
The 2018 Ried Steinertal Riesling Smaragd is terribly coolish, precise and fresh on the clear and reductive nose, with white peach and raspberry aromas. From sandy, weathered bedrock soils, this is an elegant, lush and very precise and structured Riesling with stimulating phenolic grip and tension on the finish. This is an excellent Riesling from the Wachau. Tasted at the domain in September 2019. 93 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2020
2017 F.X. Pichler Riesling Steinertal Smaragd RRP $124
Very cool and crystalline with a ton of white peaches and citrusy acidity driving the long, radically mineral finish. Long aging potential. Drink or hold. 96 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2018
The 2017 Ried Steinertal Riesling Smaragd is intense and flinty on the dark and stony, very flinty and coolish nose with its concentrated white peach and lime aromas. Full-bodied, sharp, super pure and mineral on the palate, this is a full-bodied, tight, fresh and serious wine with a long and tensioned but still terribly young finish. Great complexity and tension! One of the finest Rieslings from the Danube River in 2017. 94 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate December 2018
2018 F.X. Pichler Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd RRP $190
MAGNUM RRP $340
There is an international consensus that Kellerberg is the absolute model vineyard. This vertiginous, barren and purist primitive-rock terrace, which is exposed from south to south-east and located at the exit of a side valley, creates a very special microclimate. The Kellerberg vineyard is already pampered by the sun early in the morning. During night, cool air streaming in from the bordering woods fosters the development of the complex texture and delicately nuanced, usually exotic aromas and flavours typical of this wine. In fall, large temperature differences between day and night shape the grapes. Honey melon, mango, passion fruit, banana and fully ripe peach, concise minerally notes as a dowry of the meagre, weathered soil, and the extremely deeply rooting old vines make the wines of this site unparalleled and outstanding.
A striking wine that has such intensity, length and complexity, yet somehow manages to deliver a very elegant, pure and focused style. Aromas of ripe stone fruit, white flowers, spice and freshly picked herbs lead to a palate that has a vivid stream of minerals, swathed in ripe peaches and mangoes and coursing through the finish. Impressive in every respect. Drink or hold. 97 points. Nick Stock, jamessuckling.com December 2019
2013 F.X. Pichler Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd RRP $149
From the estate’s parade vineyard, the 2013 Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg displays a very rich and intense aroma of super-ripe and concentrated Riesling berries. Rich and powerful, but also precise, impressively concentrated and piquant on the palate, this well-balanced and highly elegant Riesling with its lemon and orange aftertaste is another signature wine of both the Wachau and the 2013 vintage. It’s aging potential should be terrific. A serious, tension-filled Riesling of great expression, which I highly recommend. 95 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2015
2016 F.X. Pichler Riesling Unendlich Smaragd RRP $373
Like its 2015 counterpart – and in a departure from earlier practice – this installment of “Unendlich” is sourced from the Kellerberg and Höhereck as well as the more usual Loibenberg. Around 10 percent of the fruit, reported Lucas Pichler, was shriveled though botrytis-free. The result is an intense concentrate of succulent pear, peach and apricot headily draped in wisteria and lent counterpoint by pit piquancy and smoky, ore-like earthiness. The lusciously lingering finish billows with inner-mouth floral perfume and practically glows with piquancy while avoiding outright bitterness or heat. 94 points. David Schildknecht, Vinous Media December 2018
GRÜNER VELTLINER
2018 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Loibner Federspiel RRP $53
This is the wine formerly known as Loibner Frauenweingarten. The vineyards stretch across the Loiben basin, featuring warm soils composed of sands washed out of the Danube and partially interspersed with gravel. This is the ideal terroir for F.X. Pichler’s Federspiel Grüners, which are structured like lace, displaying clear and delicate fruit.
Vinified in stainless steel, the 2018 Grüner Veltliner Loibner Federspiel is terribly aromatic and fresh on the highly attractive and spicy-phenolic and floral nose. Lush, clear, elegant and with stimulating grip, this is a juicy, round and accessible Veltliner for immediate pleasure. Moderate 12% alcohol. Tasted at the domain in September 2019. 88 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2020
2017 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Loibner Federspiel RRP $53
Fresh and energetic with plenty of apple, sage and some white-pepper character. Very straight and clean finish. Drink now. Screw cap. 90 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2018
2018 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Dürnstein Smaragd RRP $75
A blend of F.X. Pichler’s vineyards in Dürnstein, historically small parcels from Kellerberg, Loibenberg, Mühlpoint and Steinertal. 60% comes from the terraces, and the balance from the flat. Floral with nicely defined fruit. Juicy and intense on the palate with a whack of mineral, spice and grapefruit kicking in through the finish.
From the first harvest pass in all the terraces (from younger vines) and from riper fruits in the flat area, the 2018 Dürnsteiner Grüner Veltliner Smaragd is clear, bright and white-fruited on the spicy-elegant nose. On the palate, this is a full-bodied but also fresh and piquant Veltliner Smaragd with good grip and nice bitters. Tasted at the domain in September 2019. 90 points. Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate April 2020
2017 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Dürnstein Smaragd RRP $75
Spice, ginger, juicy grapefruit, green banana, creamy vanilla yoghurt smoothness, but bright and fresh too, lively and weighty, then comes the pepper and celery on a long cool finish. Wonderful. 94 points. Gary Walsh, The Wine Front September 2019
2018 F.X. Pichler Ried Liebenberg Grüner Veltliner Smaragd RRP $138
The steeply terraced Liebenberg vineyard, which stretches west of Dürnstein, ranks among the most interesting single-vineyard sites of Wachau. It is located on meagre, weathered soils of gneiss and mica schist with an exposure from south to southwest. Here thrive vines that produce wines full of mineral elegance and expansive nuances, which will not lose their distinctive origin even after many years of cellaring.
Tons of pear tart, mango dessert, earl-grey tea, orange marmalade, white pepper and baked Alaska here. Full-bodied and concentrated on the palate with a gyclerol-like texture and lots of ripe-fruit character. The acidity takes on a direct but subtle persona. Drink now or hold. 94 points. Nick Stock, JamesSuckling.com December 2019
2017 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Ried Liebenberg Smaragd RRP $138
Lots of green-plum and wild-berry aromas, plus herbal freshness that beautifully balances the considerable power of this unusual Wachau Grüner Veltliner. Great tension through the long finish. From chalk-rich soil, a rarity for the region. Drink or hold. 96 points. Stuart Pigott, jamessuckling.com October 2018
