“The style here is pure and understated, minimal wood influence meaning that it is the grapes — and the climats that shape them — that are front and centre at all times.” This was the summary from Wine Advocate’s William Kelley in delivering his latest report from the Matrot family. It’s right on the money and points to the no-nonsense common sense of Elsa and Adèle Matrot: When you’re lucky enough to have old vines sitting in the best sites of Meursault and Puligny, why let anything get in the way?
2017 Matrot Bourgogne Blanc RRP $53
Vines with an average age of 30 years.
A whiff of wood surrounds the fresh aromas of straw and pear scents. There is both good volume and intensity to the delicious middle weight flavours that terminate in a bitter lemon-inflected and slightly rustic finish. This could use a bit more depth but this is by no means simple. 86 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound
2017 Matrot Meursault RRP $140
Vines with an average age of 40 years (11 parcels)
Pungent aromas feature notes of gunflint, citrus & hazelnut. The delicious, detailed & attractively vibrant medium-bodied flavours possess an appealing texture before concluding in a clean and dry finish that offers a bit more depth if not quite the same refinement. 88 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound
2017 Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Blagny RRP $206
Vines with an average age of 35 years.
The 2017 Meursault-Blagny 1er Cru unfurls in the glass with a vivid bouquet of crisp green apple, pear, Meyer lemon and oyster shell. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, fleshy but cool and controlled, with bright acids and a mineral finish. The high-altitude site tempers the sun kissed charm of the vintage. 90 points. William Kelley, Wine Advocate
2017 Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes RRP $206
Vines with an average age of 37 years.
Matrot’s 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes was still a little shut down, having been bottled last week, but with coaxing it offers up a textbook nose of dried white flowers, fresh pears, buttered apples and mint. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny textured and pure with brisk acids and a deep, tight-knit core. 92+ points. William Kelley, Wine Advocate
2017 Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières RRP $272
Vines with an average age of 56 years.
The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières is excellent, offering up notes of lemon oil, white flowers, crushed oyster shell and wet stones. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and layered with tangy acids, a tensile and tight-knit core, excellent mid-palate amplitude and a long, mineral finish. This is one of the most promising young white Burgundies I’ve tasted from Matrot. 94 points. William Kelley, Wine Advocate
2017 Matrot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux RRP $206
Vines with an average age of 30 years.
The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux is a promising bottle in the making, unfurling in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of mandarin oil, crisp peach and green orchard fruit. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with a more delicate and less fleshy profile than the Meursault Charmes, concluding with a pure and chalky finish. It’s a lovely rendition of Les Chalumeaux. 92 points. William Kelley, Wine Advocate
2017 Matrot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes RRP $272
Vines with an average age of 40 years.
Aromas of fresh pear, yellow orchard fruit, honeycomb and subtle hints of toasted nuts introduce the 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes, a medium to full-bodied, ample and elegantly textural wine with a layered mid-palate, succulent acids and attractive purity. It’s a classy, understated wine that exemplifies the contemporary Matrot style. 93 points. William Kelley, Wine Advocate
2017 Matrot Bourgogne Rouge RRP $58
A fruity and bright nose reflects notes of mostly red berries along with a whiff of earth. The light weight and delicious flavours are built on their fruit but even so, there is reasonably good depth and persistence on the rustic finale. This should drink well immediately. 86 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound
2017 Matrot Maranges Rouge Vieilles Vignes RRP $66
Vines aged between 50 and 80 years.
A slightly more elegant and fresh nose combines notes of equally bright red cherry, currant and pungent earth nuances. There is both good energy and detail to the slightly denser flavours that culminate in a rustic bitter cherry pit-inflected finish. This should also drink well shortly after release. 87 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound
2017 Matrot Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots RRP $163
Vines with an average age of 32 years. 10-20% new oak.
Notes of smoky cherries and cassis mingle with hints of rich soil and new oak, introducing the 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots, a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered wine with melting tannins and a juicy core of fruit. This is a decidedly open-knit, charming interpretation of Santenots. 90 points. William Kelley, Wine Advocate
2017 Matrot Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Les Bois RRP $163
Vines with an average age of 30 years. 10-20% new oak.
Notes of sweet red cherries, herbs and dried flowers introduce the 2017 Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois, a medium-bodied, succulent wine with a tangy core of fruit, light but chalky tannins and a mouthwatering finish. From a high altitude, stony site, this is a singular Côte de Beaune bottling that will appeal to purists who love tensile, precise reds. 90 points. William Kelley, Wine Advocate