2016 was the first harvest with Elsa and Adèle Matrot fully grasping the reins at this organic Meursault estate, having coaxed them from father Thierry. A superb legacy to take on, but this wasn’t, to say the least, the kindest year in which to kick off the sisters’ reign; the estate lost up to 80% of its normal production to the spring frost. It is, unsurprisingly, a fine debut – they’re more than up to the challenge. Engaging, incisive and forthright, they joined the domaine in 2008 and 2010 respectively. And what counts as normal, anyway? “After 2012, 2013 and 2014, not much fazes us anymore,” they told Allen Meadows of Burghound.
Elsa and Adèle are, quite rightly, in no rush to change anything. “We like the style of our parents,” Adèle told us when we visited in March. So they should. This sixth-generation grower – which counts as one of Burgundy’s first domaine bottlers, having started under the rule of great-grandfather Joseph a full century ago – enjoys enviable prominence on the best wine lists across its native France and far beyond. They’ve cut back on lees stirring and filtration, and are eager to spend even more time out among the vines. But they’re well aware that they’re on a good wicket when it comes to the range, quality and style of the domaine’s wine.
The latest shipment of wines includes 2016 whites, a Burgundy harvest characterised by Stephen Tanzer of Vinous Media as yielding “charming, aromatically appealing wines that will give early pleasure”. Staying with his generalisation, which holds with impressions from our visit in March, the results of this vintage are “less ripe and full than the ‘15s and come across as more charming and accessible at the same stage, showing surprisingly fresh aromatics and good typicity”. Along with these, we’re able to offer a small selection of reds from what is roundly regarded as a winning 2015 harvest for Pinot Noir from this blessed part of the world.
THE WINES
2016 Domaine Matrot Bourgogne Blanc RRP $53 screwcap
100% Chardonnay from vines with an average age of 30 years. Pressed as whole bunches in a pneumatic press. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels (up to 20% new) for eight to 10 weeks at temperatures of 18-20°C. Undergoes complete MLF and is matured on lees for 11 months with some bâtonnage. Racked once before bottling.
2016 Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes RRP $206
Vines with an average age of 37 years.
A penetrating nose offers up notes of matchstick, petrol, essence of pear and pretty acacia scents. The generously proportioned, pliant and seductively textured medium weight flavors brim with dry extract while the solidly persistent finish also flashes a hint of natural sweetness. 90 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2018
(Matrot had a normal yield of 48 hectoliters per hectare): Pale, bright yellow. Musky, leesy scents of lively yellow fruits and smoky minerality. Very rich and dense on entry, then plush but savory and dry in the middle, with lemon and ripe peach flavors accompanied by a slightly exotic suggestion of banana. As much Chardonnay as Charmes today, and less graceful than the Blagny. Finishes slightly aggressive and dry-edged, with a mineral firmness and a hint of grapefruit giving the wine a touch of bitterness. Elsa Matrot has been using micro-bullage here but the wine appears to need a real racking. 89-92 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media September 2017
2016 Domaine Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Perrières RRP $272
Vines with an average age of 56 years.
A cool, pure and highly restrained nose requires ample agitation to coax the aromas of green apple, mineral reduction, citrus and acacia blossom. The middle weight flavors possess a similar texture to those of the Combettes but with even better delineation and, not surprisingly, markedly more stone influence on the focused, chiseled and built-to-age finale. I like the balance and this is pretty much textbook. 93 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2018
(from a “full normal crop” from very old vines, according to Elsa Matrot): Reduced aromas of peach and pineapple enlivened by calcaire energy. Very concentrated, youthful and balanced, boasting a lovely mineral/acid spine that’s already in harmony with the wine’s dense, sweet fruit. Finishes firm and lightly phenolic but not bitter, with excellent saline, iodiney grip and terrific subtle, sappy length. Delivers a lovely combination of power and elegance. 91-94 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media September 2017
2016 Domaine Matrot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes RRP $272
Vines with an average age of 40 years.
A fresh, ripe and attractively layered nose is composed by a combination of various white orchard fruit, especially white peach, and citrus, floral and softer wood influence. I very much like the classy mouth feel of the refined medium-bodied flavors that dance across the palate while delivering fine length on the balanced finish. This does need to develop better depth but the material and structure is here for that to happen. 92 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2018
Bright light yellow. Attractive floral lift to the aromas of peach and hazelnut; seems to be evolving more quickly than most of the other 2016s at this address. Fat, plump and a bit exotic although not overly sweet, with a soft pineapple flavor dominating. Nicely fills the mouth but could use more mineral cut and definition. Finishes a bit warm and harsh. This wine will drink early for its fat and texture. Half of this cuvée is from 5-year-old vines, which Elsa Matrot says brought the gras, while the rest is from vines in excess of 50 years of age. 88-90 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media September 2017
2016 Domaine Matrot Puligny-Montrachet Les Chalumeaux RRP $206
Vines with an average age of 30 years.
Firm reduction makes the nose difficult to assess. Otherwise there is excellent size, weight and richness to the opulently textured middle weight flavors that possess slightly better cut and minerality on the sneaky long and drier finish. 91 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2018
(normal production in 2016): Slightly funky pineapple aroma suggests a wine with sound acidity and mineral lift. Juicy and lemony in the mouth, showing modest acidity yet coming across as more clenched than the Meursault Charmes. Complicated by a touch of saline minerality. Offers good cut and intensity but a bit withdrawn now – and not an opulent style. Firm-edged on the finish. 89-91 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media September 2017
Bottled. Rather quiet on the nose but with a light, smoky reductive quality and a stony, mineral precision. Mouth-watering smoky citrus and a long, precise finish. 17/20 Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2018
2015 Domaine Matrot Bourgogne Rouge RRP $58
100% destemmed Pinot Noir from vines with an average age of 40 years. Indigenous ferment, preceded by a three- to six-day cold soak. Fermentation goes for eight to 15 days. Plunged or pumped over up to twice a day, according to vintage. Matured in young oak for 11 months. Racked after malolactic conversion, then racked and filtered prior to bottling.
2015 Domaine Matrot Maranges Rouge RRP $66
Vines aged between 50 and 80 years.
A solidly layered nose offers up notes of red currant, dark cherry and ample amounts of earth and humus. There is both good energy and richness to the admirably concentrated flavors that possess a succulent and suave mouth feel before concluding in a lingering finish that is just firm enough to suggest that 2 to 3 years of bottle age should see this at its peak. This is no model of finesse but the old vine sap is certainly present. 88 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound April 2017
2015 Domaine Matrot Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Les Bois RRP $157
Vines with an average age of 30 years.
A discreet application of wood sets off aromas that are also markedly spicy and floral with fruit characters of black cherry and plum. There is excellent richness but also fine detail to the more subtly mineral-inflected flavors that possess that beguiling quality of inner mouth perfume that is particularly noticeable on the beautifully well-balanced finish. This should age for a very long time if you enjoy older burgs. 91 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound April 2017
Fragrant clove and cinnamon spice, light black cherry fruit – good definition and clarity here. Plenty of grip and grain on the palate. Convincing. 17/20 Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2017
Also available: 2015 whites
2015 Domaine Matrot Bourgogne Blanc RRP $49 screwcap
100% Chardonnay from vines with an average age of 30 years. Pressed as whole bunches in a pneumatic press. Fermentation with indigenous yeasts in oak barrels (up to 20% new) for eight to 10 weeks at temperatures of 18-20°C. Undergoes complete MLF and is matured on lees for 11 months with some bâtonnage. Racked once before bottling.
2015 Domaine Matrot Meursault RRP $140
Chardonnay from 11 parcels with an average age of 40 years. Indigenous fermentation in one- to five-year-old oak barrels. Aged on lees for 11 months with some bâtonnage.
A mild hint of reduction is just enough to reduce the expressiveness but not completely mask the aromas of various white orchard fruit, petrol and hazelnut. There is fine richness and mid-palate body to the middle weight flavors that coat the mouth with dry extract on the more complex if slightly less refined finish. This is a quality Meursault villages and worth considering plus it should reward mid-term aging. 89 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2017
Pale yellow. Slightly reduced aromas of lemon, lime and musky white flowers. Pliant and nicely concentrated, with ripe, well-integrated acidity. But this dry, saline wine, made without any new oak, comes across as a bit rustic today and slightly phenolic on the back end. 87-89 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media September 2016
Organic. Delicate slightly woody/cedary (not oaky) nose. Real zip and intensity on the mid palate. Zesty and with some oak spice on the finish. A real palate wakener. 16/20 Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2017
2015 Domaine Matrot St Aubin 1er Cru Fleurs de Côteaux RRP $107
Vines with an average age of 35 years.
This is relatively firmly reduced so again, a thorough aeration is called for if you’re going to drink one immediately. The medium weight flavors possess a more refined mouth feel, indeed it could accurately be described as sleek, all wrapped in a rich but energetic and refreshing finish where a hint of bitter lemon emerges. This should mature quickly yet be capable of holding well. 89 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound June 2017
2015 Domaine Matrot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières RRP $264
Vines with an average age of 56 years.
Bright yellow. Musky reduction to the fruit-driven aromas of pineapple, lemon and orange zest. Suave and fine-grained on the palate, with emerging minerality and lemony citricity giving the wine dynamism and structure despite its modest acidity. More classic and gripping than the Puligny-Montrachet La Quintessence, finishing with a touch of bitter lemon and excellent length and lift. 91-94 points. Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media September 2016
Nutty, crab apple, white peach and a touch of slate on the finish. Spicy touches on the finish. 17/20 Richard Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2017