The apparent feast of riches that hung from Burgundian vines in 2023 concealed quite a few pitfalls. Taupenot-Merme, a domaine branded on the rise for so long that you might’ve missed its ascension to the first ranks, avoided them all. Dilution of flavour, lack of freshness, fruitiness at the expense of mineralité, and brawn over elegance were all risks that growers succumbed to because of the bumper crop from the hottest vintage on record.
Romain and Virginie Taupenot emerged triumphant. They made two green harvests, depending on the vineyards, and rigorously sorted to discard underripe berries when they picked in the early morning during an intense fortnight between 11th and 25th September. “The whites show great aromatic quality with perfect ripeness,” Virginie reports. “The reds are round, generous and supple, sometimes slightly acidulous, with a fine tannic structure and a very present body.”
Gevrey, Chambolle and Morey are shown in all their glory, as is Auxey, viewed through the lens of both Aligoté and Chardonnay. The reviews below attest to the quality of the viticulture and judgment here. We heartily recommend these excellent examples from the Côte d’Or. They have real class and will bring great pleasure now and for a long time to come.
Whites
2023 Taupenot-Merme Bourgogne Aligoté RRP $64
The 2023 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Bourgogne Aligoté has grapes sourced from two lieux-dits: Sur Melin in Auxey-Duresses (planted in 1957) and Champs Pirettes in Morey-Saint-Denis (planted in 1950 and 1986), reflecting the estate’s long-standing dedication to this varietal.
The grapes are hand-harvested and transported in small 20kg baskets to prevent crushing. In the winery, they undergo meticulous sorting, destemming, and a 24-hour cold soak at 12°C to allow the must to settle. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks using indigenous yeasts, followed by malolactic fermentation. The wine is then aged for 10 months on its lees in stainless steel, preserving its fresh and vibrant character. This approach highlights the variety’s natural acidity and minerality, offering a crisp and refreshing profile.
2023 Taupenot-Merme Auxey-Duresses Blanc RRP $138
The 2023 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Auxey-Duresses Blanc is a white Burgundy crafted from Chardonnay grapes. The wine is noted for its aromatic complexity, harmoniously blending concentration and finesse. On the nose, it presents floral aromas intertwined with notes of roasted hazelnuts, all underscored by an elegant minerality. The palate is characterised by a sapid texture, culminating in a sumptuous finish reminiscent of jasmine and nectarine. The wine underwent fermentation with indigenous yeasts and was aged for 11 months in one-year-old Burgundian barrels, allowing it to develop its distinctive character without the influence of new oak.
This Auxey-Duresses Blanc stands as a testament to Domaine Taupenot-Merme’s commitment to crafting wines that reflect both their origin and the exceptional qualities of the 2023 vintage.
The 2023 Auxey-Duresses Blanc had been racked the week prior to my visit. A touch more citrus-fresh, this has a little more “attack” than the Saint-Romain Blanc. The palate is well balanced with a smooth entry and fine depth, leading to subtle tropical notes on the harmonious, creamy-textured finish. Lovely. 89–91 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Reds
Regional
2023 Taupenot-Merme Passetoutgrain RRP $64
The 2023 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Bourgogne Passetoutgrain exemplifies the traditional blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay grapes. Crafted from vineyards located in the Côte d’Or region of Burgundy.
On the nose, it presents floral aromas intertwined with notes of roasted hazelnuts, all underscored by an elegant minerality. The palate is characterised by a sapid texture, culminating in a sumptuous finish reminiscent of jasmine and nectarine. The wine underwent fermentation with indigenous yeasts and was aged for 11 months in one-year-old Burgundian barrels, allowing it to develop its distinctive character without the influence of new oak.
The 2023 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain is a 50/50 blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. This successfully combines the two varieties, with dark cherry and raspberry fruit alongside touches of orange pith. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a keen line of acidity and a crunchy finish. Simple, but delicious. 86 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
2023 Taupenot-Merme Bourgogne Rouge RRP $114
Made from Pinot Noir grapes, reflecting the house style of richness balanced with freshness, relying on the innate quality of the sites to create wines that are balanced and complete. The wine offers a glimpse into the character of 2023, showcasing the elegance and complexity of the region.
The 2023 Bourgogne Rouge has a fragrant bouquet with red cherries, cranberry and light rose petal scents that unfurl nicely in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine sense of energy, slightly chalky tannins and a nice poise on the finish. This is a delightful Bourgogne Rouge with fine purity. 88 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Mid crimson ruby. A light fresh raspberry fruit, clean and pure with extra energy behind, fresh cherries behind, with fine length and no sign of dilution. Indeed, the fruit keeps returning. Drink from 2026-2028. 88-89 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
Village
2023 Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin RRP $265
Crafted from Pinot Noir grapes sourced from four distinct lieux-dits: La Justice, Craite Paille, Les Seuvrées, and Bel Air. The vines, planted between 1968 and 1971, thrive in clay and limestone soils, contributing to the wine’s complexity.
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has a fragrant bouquet, more generous than the Morey-Saint-Denis with black cherries, sous-bois and pressed rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied and cohesive, with crisp tannins and a peppery finish that lingers tenderly on the finish. This is definitely worth seeking out. 89–91 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Mid crimson in colour. A Gevrey very much in strawberry mode, which reflects the sector where most of the fruit comes from (Les Seuvrées, Craite Paille, Justice, plus a spot of Belair). Dense red fruit with a touch of acidity, very attractive in this style. Drink from 2027-2032. 90-91 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
2023 Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny RRP $284
Fruit comes from a couple of Lieux Dits – Les Bussières (borders Morey) and La Taupe, which is down towards Vougeot and a bit higher up the slopes above 1er Cru Combe d’Orveau. This wine is known for its aromatic complexity, featuring prominent notes of red fruits such as raspberry, cherry, and strawberry. On the palate, it offers a harmonious balance of richness and freshness with a silky texture and refined tannins.
The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny Village has an attractive bouquet, classic in style with slightly leafy red berry fruit, perhaps reflecting the cooler aspects of the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins. Fresh, vibrant and lightly spiced, this feels very cohesive and persistent on the finish. Enjoy this over the next decade. 89–91 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Mid crimson ruby. There is a very attractive plumper fruit here, significant energy at the front of the palate, all in red fruit, which continues on through to a racy finish. This Chambolle avoids softness which not everybody has managed in this sort of wine in 2023. Juicy but poised. Drink from 2028-2032. 89-91 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
1ER CRU
2023 Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 1er Cru RRP $545
Crafted from Pinot Noir grapes sourced from the esteemed Bel Air vineyard in Gevrey-Chambertin. This vintage showcases a bright purple hue and offers a rich, generous aroma of ripe fruit on the nose. The palate reveals a suggestion of velvety texture, followed by higher-toned fresh red fruit flavours, including hints of strawberry, all balanced by a lifted acidity on the finish. This wine is expressive, vibrant, and harmonious, reflecting the exceptional quality of the 2023 vintage.
The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Bel Air 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with pretty redcurrant and raspberry fruit alongside neatly enmeshed oak. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced with plump red berry fruit, pointed acidity and what you might misconstrue as stem-induced pepperiness toward the finish (there are no stems). A lovely Gevrey. 92–94 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
A fine ruby colour, not much deeper than the village wine, maybe less. The aromatics and indeed the fruit on the palate are quite light but they are fine and persistent – this is a hillside wine on the limestone, and it shows. Ethereal territory. Drink from 2029-2035. 91-94 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
2023 Taupenot-Merme Chambolle-Musigny Combe d’Orveau 1er Cru RRP $545
Crafted from Pinot Noir grapes, this vintage presents a perfumed bouquet of sweet red fruits and floral notes, leading to a harmonious palate with fine persistence of pure, scented, ripe red fruits. The wine is mouthwatering, saline, and elegantly long, showcasing an elegance that carries through the palate.
The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with brambly red berry fruit, rose petals and hints of bergamot tea unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied and lightly spiced with a sorbet-fresh opening, impressive delineation and transparency, a keen thread of acidity and a cohesive finish. Very fine. 91–93 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Crimson ruby, not too much on the nose. Entirely red fruit on the palate, superbly sensual, with a disciplined finish to stop it becoming too much. This cherry-raspberry ripe fruit returns in force at the very back. Drink from 2030-2036. 92-94 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
2023 Taupenot-Merme Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru RRP $481
Crafted from Pinot Noir grapes, exhibiting a royally deep crimson-purple hue, indicative of its depth and concentration. On the nose, it presents fresh aroms that, despite their ripeness, retain a notable freshness attributed to the vineyard’s altitude. The palate is precisely balanced, showcasing a harmonious interplay between ripe fruit flavours and vibrant acidity.
The 2023 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte 1er Cru has a charming bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, raspberry, wild strawberry and a touch of orange pith. The palate is medium-bodied with good tension and finely spun tannins. Quite Chambolle-like and linear in style, this La Riotte is only a whisker away from the previous vintage. 91–93 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Deeper in colour with a smooth ripe raspberry fruit that has retained tension. There is plenty of energy here, and it is very well put together with a firm persistence in the fruit. Compact yet with quite a volume of fruit, more linear than the other two. Drink from 2030-2036. 92-94 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
GRAND CRU
2023 Taupenot-Merme Corton-Rognet Grand Cru RRP $900
Pinot Noir grapes planted in 1987 on clay and limestone; the family holding of this Corton Grand Cru totals 0.4 Ha, with the first vintage produced in 2005. This wine embodies the rich heritage of the Côte de Beaune region, showcasing the exceptional quality of the 2023 vintage. The Corton Rognet Grand Cru is traditionally known for its robust structure, deep colour, and complex flavour profile, often featuring notes of dark berries, earthy undertones, and a hint of spice. The 2023 vintage continues this legacy, offering a wine of depth and elegance that reflects both its grand cru status and the meticulous craftsmanship of Domaine Taupenot-Merme. As with many grand cru Burgundies, this wine is expected to benefit from extended cellaring, allowing its flavours and aromas to develop further complexity over time.
The 2023 Corton-Rognet Grand Cru has a neat in tidy nose, not flamboyant, perhaps just a little conservative compared to the more expressive Pruliers. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins, moderate weight and a structured finish. Fine, but this will need time. 91–93 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Deepish purple. A weight of fruit on the cusp of red and black, which is working really well, A huge intensity in the fruit expression, with all the right structure behind, enough tannin and a little acidity, all in perfect balance. Very successful. Drink from 2030-2038. 93-95 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
2023 Taupenot-Merme Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru RRP $1230
The family owns 0.85 Ha of vines on the grand cru, spread across two plots planted in 1958 and 1959.
This vintage presents a bright mid-purple hue and offers a bouquet of detailed, fresh red berries, including raspberries and ripe cherries. On the palate, it reveals greater fruit intensity, with a seamless finish that suggests a beautiful wine in the making. This wine will develop beautifully over time.
2023 Taupenot-Merme Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru The 2023 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru has a delectable bouquet, complex and quite mercurial in the glass with a mélange of red and black fruit, melted tar and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, silky-smooth with well-judged acidity. Very harmonious with fine “shoulders” on the finish, this is a worthy follow-up to the 2022. 94-96 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
A fine mid ruby purple. There is a floral note which lifts the clear red raspberry fruit. It’s ripe but with huge energy as well, ripe cherries, correct acidity, dancing away to the end of the palate. Luscious yet balanced. Drink from 2032-2040. 94-96 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
2023 Taupenot-Merme Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru RRP $1089
Pinot Noir from several plots totalling 0.6Ha planted in 1958, 1968 & 1988. This vintage presents a bright, attractive crimson-purple hue. The nose gradually opens in the glass, revealing flowing red fruit aromas. On the palate, the wine exhibits a silky elegance, with incredibly fine tannins lending subtle power and depth.
The 2023 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru unfurls with well-delineated redcurrant, cranberry and rooibos scents on the nose, and just a hint of marmalade in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip and more amplitude than the Corton-Rognet, leading to a persistent and judiciously spiced finish. Excellent. 93–95 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024
Dense firm purple. Suggestion of some softness to the fruit here, dark strawberry. Then a firmer structure behind, tannins a little more pointed at the moment, but this should evolve with extra ageing. The sensual character is there, but more in a black fruit without losing its strawberry. A little point of salinity as well, Romain suggests. Drink from 2030-2038. 93-95 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Nov 2024
