New From Elsa & Adèle: The Famille Matrot ’23s

2026 marks 10 years since sisters Elsa and Adèle Matrot took the reins at the family domaine. This is also the year that they announced a slight name change, removing first names from the labels to make it “Famille Matrot”. These astute, open-minded women have always looked forward, and they’ve brought this domaine to a very fine spot.

Elsa and Adèle have always kept a microscopic focus on their terroirs while also thinking in a worldly way about what they grow and for whom. In a warming, volatile environment, that natural inclination has stood them in excellent stead. Jasper Morris MW, long a fan of the Chardonnay here, nonetheless notes that “if anything, there is now a sense of greater freshness and refinement in the whites”.

The reds, too, have a good head start that the sisters have turned into an impressive lead among growers on the Côte de Beaune. Minerality, elegance and freshness are words that keep cropping up in the reviews, and they don’t lack for delicious pinosity. This is especially impressive in the uneven conditions of a warm, high-yielding season. Then again, that astuteness came into play; vineyard precision and strict sorting meant that production chez Matrot was 30% lower in 2022.

What we have here, then, is a very fine set of 2023 whites and reds from a domaine that is firmly on the radar of Burgundy lovers with an eye for personality and joy in the glass. And with an eye to the future, Famille Matrot is only becoming more of a must-have.

Whites

2023 Matrot Bourgogne Blanc RRP $91

100% Chardonnay from vines with an average age of 20 years. This white wine is made from Chardonnay harvested by hand near the Meursault-appellation vineyards. It offers white-fleshed fruit aromas, with a bold attack on the palate and a round finish. Best tasted young. – Adèle & Elsa Matrot

Bottled end August. Includes their own Hautes Côtes vines (seven years old) and their Auxey Blanc very young vines, Maranges blanc (too small for a separate cuvée) plus 5ha below Meursault. The total is 650 hectolitres of which 150 hectos is purchased fruit. Mid lemon yellow, the nose is on the sunnier side, the palate has some built in austerity from the texture, and with proper Burgundian grip. Clive Coates would have liked it. Altogether excellent on the palate, though the bouquet is currently simpler. Lovely aftertaste. 89 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Meursault RRP $231

Vines with an average age of 35 years. We mix together 12 plots in order to make a classic, representative Meursault wine. A pure wine with character, often described as a sweet and dry wine. It has hints of yellow fruit with a citrus finish. – Adèle & Elsa Matrot

The bouquet is elegant and mineral-driven, with hints of white flowers and citrus zest. On the palate, it offers a harmonious balance of ripe orchard fruits, such as pear and golden apple, complemented by a touch of toasted hazelnut and a subtle saline edge. With good concentration and a lingering, textured finish, it shows strong aging potential.

Racked, as all the whites were, in early September, and still a fraction cloudy. A very light gunflint but more it is the white fruit to the fore, especially on the palate. Some citrus at the back to maintain freshness, and the fruit keeps kicking on during an extended finish. Leaves a fine aftertaste. 89–92 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Meursault Blagny 1er Cru RRP $388

The 2023 Domaine Matrot Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru is a refined and mineral-driven expression of the vintage, shaped by a warm and sunny growing season. The bouquet is elegant and airy, leading to a well-balanced palate with flavours of walnut and orange rind. It offers good depth and a dense finish, showcasing its potential for aging. Vinified in 13-year-old barrels to maintain subtle oak influence, the wine was later transferred to stainless steel vats.

One of the paler colours and more austere noses. Slightly saline, slightly brutal, more in apple than citrus, with a little bit of flesh coming up behind. Indeed, a slightly fuller creamier finish than expected. 90–92 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Meursault Charmes 1er Cru RRP $388

Crafted from four parcels of 30-year-old vines rooted in clay-limestone soils. The wine undergoes fermentation and aging for 11 months in French oak barrels, with 20% being new oak, followed by a period in stainless steel vats before bottling. On the nose, it exudes a powerful sensuality, offering suave and caressing aromas of poached pear with sweet spices, candied apple, and confit peach, sprinkled with hints of cinnamon, almond powder, and lightly roasted hazelnut. This Meursault-Charmes is noted for its charm and elegance.

 A clear fresh colour, with a thoroughly energetic bouquet that is still classical Charmes. Excellent in the mouth too, very pure white fruit, good acidity, many layers to this and fine persistence. A fine expression of the vineyard and showing that 2023 does not lack concentration. As per the Chalumeaux, the grapes from the young vines suffered in the heat and were sold off. 93–95 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Meursault Perrières 1er Cru RRP $545

Vines with an average age of 60 years from a parcel located next to the famed Clos des Perrières. Indigenous fermentation in 1- to 3-year-old oak barrels. Undergoes complete malolactic fermentation. The wine spent 15 months maturing on lees (no stirring) in oak. Final 3 months’ ageing in stainless steel before bottling.

Mid lemon yellow. A touch of honeyed melon sitting on top of the more classic white fruit, but not distracting from the core of this immensely concentrated fruit, with a little bit of salinity to finish. Adequate acidity. There is plenty going on and still very youthful – not racked yet. 92–95 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

Taken from barrel. There is clearly more intensity on the nose, as a lovely reduction gives it energy and another dimension. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and a long tail on the finish, the mineralité intact after the growing season. Superb. 93–95 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024

2023 Matrot Puligny-Montrachet Chalumeaux 1er Cru RRP $388

Sourced from the “Les Chalumeaux” vineyard, situated near the Hameau de Blagny on an east-facing hillside with rocky marly limestone soils, this wine benefits from a unique microclimate and soil composition.

On the nose, it presents floral aromas intertwined with notes of roasted hazelnuts, all underscored by an elegant minerality. The palate is characterised by a sapid texture, culminating in a sumptuous finish reminiscent of jasmine and nectarine. The wine underwent fermentation with indigenous yeasts and was aged for 11 months in one-year-old Burgundian barrels, allowing it to develop its distinctive character without the influence of new oak.

Mid lemon yellow, riper and sunnier but in a pleasingly floral idiom. I love the balance to this and there is a fine thread of acidity which really sets this apart, and a lovely little citrus tint to the fresh yet ripe apples. Grapes from the young vines caught the sun, did not make the cut and were sold off. What they bottled is marvellous though! 93–96 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru RRP $545

Vines with an average age of 40 years. Indigenous fermentation in 1- to 3-year-old oak barrels. Undergoes complete MLF. The wine spent 15 months maturing on lees (no stirring) in oak. Final 3 months’ ageing in stainless steel before bottling.

A little fuller in yellow fruit. This has additional body over and above the Chalumeaux, but it comes more in a single block of flavour. Adequate acidity behind and good length. Fills the mouth more than seduces. Note that the Combettes has not been racked yet, and might well be showing better since. 91–94 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

Deft application of wood sets off elegant and pure aromas of acacia and lilac, with citrus, apple and spice hints. Sleek, tension-filled flavors possess a gorgeous texture with a subtle bead of minerality on the balanced, long, youthfully austere finale. Could use better depth, so a few years of cellaring are recommended. 91–93 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound Jun 2024

2023 Matrot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru RRP $1188

The 2023 Domaine Matrot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is a distinguished white Burgundy crafted from Chardonnay grapes sourced from the esteemed Corton-Charlemagne vineyard in the Côte de Beaune. Only one barrel made. This vintage exhibits a pale hue and an elegant, finely structured nose, characterised by mineral notes reminiscent of small stones and vibrant energy. On the palate, it delivers a fine grip with ripe citrus flavours, culminating in a persistent and satisfying finish.

One barrel every year since 2018. The colour is pale lemon and the bouquet rather restrained. Much more interesting on the palate where there is an impressive mineral intensity which continues through to the back of the palate. Even a slight bitterness and a touch of sandalwood, from the one-year-old barrel. Makes one salivate behind. Not yet racked, full of promise. 93–96 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

REDS

2023 Matrot Bourgogne Rouge RRP $91

Pinot Noir from vines with an average age of 15 years. Coming from a selection of vines in Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, this wine is dominated by notes of fresh, sweet red fruits. It is juicy with soft tannins. Best drunk young. – Adèle & Elsa Matrot

Below Meursault and Puligny. Fine crimson purple, without a lot on the nose, middleweight pleasing pinot fruit, just a strain of green, good length, in a slight firm finish. But the cherry fruit won’t give up. In fact, more persistence than expected. 86–88 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Maranges Rouge RRP $100

This Pinot Noir is produced from vines averaging 30 years old, with the fruit completely destemmed before fermentation. It fermented with natural yeasts, following a cold vatting period of three to six days at 10 °C. It was vinified over 12 to 18 days with pumping-over or pigeage carried out twice daily depending on the vintage. The wine matures for 15 months on lees in oak barrels, 10% of which are new, before spending a further three months in a stainless-steel vat to prepare it for bottling, and is finished with lenticular filtration.

From the Borgy sector, above Dézize, a water-retaining soil because there is clay here even near the top of the hill. Glowing purple. This is a little bit reduced but hasn’t been racked yet. Very pure on the palate and really quite delicious, cherries and riper redcurrants, very lovely. 88–90 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Auxey-Duresses Rouge RRP $107

Pinot Noir from vines with an average age of 35 years. The vineyard of Auxey-Duresses is located next to a valley, between Meursault and Monthélie. A blackberry bouquet with a tart finish and textured tannins. A powerful wine when young, the tannins soften and the wine unveils itself when opened after a few years. – Adèle & Elsa Matrot

Fresh glowing purple. Not reductive, just a very pretty floral red fruit, and a lovely feeling across the palate, not trying to be anything it is not, but succeeding very well at what it does – and not too bony for Auxey. 88–90 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

Transparent nose, avoiding the blueberry/cassis aromas often found in Auxey. Medium-bodied with svelte tannins, well-judged acidity, and a touch of earthiness on the finish. Lilting and well worth seeking out. 89–91 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024

2023 Matrot Meursault Rouge RRP $142

Pinot Noir from vines with an average age of 20 years. The grapes are harvested from 2 plots at the bottom of the Volnay Santenots hillsides, Les Dressoles and Malpoiriers. Structured and powerful wine, but retaining all the elegance and purity of fruit sought after by a Pinot Noir. On the palate, fleshy black fruits, a solid structure that will soften after a few years in the bottle. – Adèle & Elsa Matrot

A glowing fresh ruby purple. The nose has a striking elegance which you might not expect in a red Meursault. Starts well, then develops a fascinating savoury red fruit with a slight blood orange aspect, no notable tannins, adequate acidity and good persistence. 88–90 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

Compact nose, a little more minerally than expected, with bright red cherry and crushed strawberry scents. Medium-bodied with fleshy tannins, plenty of energy, and quite caressing toward the finish. 88–90 points. Neal Martin, Vinous Nov 2024

2023 Matrot Volnay 1er Cru Santenots RRP $213

The Volnay Santenots terroir, located in the town of Meursault, produces complex red wines. They are rich, well-structured and elegant. Black fruits dominate the bouquet, underpinned by soft, velvety tannins. – Adèle & Elsa Matrot

Another fine vibrant colour. The nose has a degree of elegance, if not quite as much volume as a Santenots-du-Milieu would have. Then richer on the second half of the palate, sunnier in style, but with good weight. Dark cherries. This has been racked. 90–92 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

2023 Matrot Blagny 1er Cru La Pièce Sous Le Bois Rouge RRP $213

The Blagny la Pièce sous le Bois premier cru, just like its neighbour Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru Blanc, is strongly distinguished by its limestone terroir. It is one of the very few appellations in the Côte de Beaune where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir happily grow side by side on the same plot. Dark and intense fruits dominate the spicy notes that follow on the nose. It is full-bodied, with rich tannins, and surprises the palate with minerality and energy. – Adèle & Elsa Matrot

Not many bunches were affected by the hail on 11th July, and those that were fell off. The storm damaged the parents’ roof more than the vines. Not racked yet. No more than medium deep crimson ruby. Still fresh, in fruit profile, with both red and black cherries, good depth of fruit, and a few tannins as well. There is a fine long aftertaste. 90–93 points. Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy Oct 2024

Displays some reduction that presently overshadows the fruit. Palate impression is finer with evident minerality on the balanced and persistent finish. Supporting tannins are sufficiently firm to require at least moderate patience. 90–92 points. Allen Meadows, Burghound Apr 2025