The 2024 wines show a much greater step up between Federspiel and Smaragd than usual—the Smaragde are pictures of purity.
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
“Surprisingly elegant!” exclaims Emmerich Knoll of the style of the family’s 2024s. That elegance should issue from this beacon of Wachau winegrowing might come as no surprise. Unless, that is, you look at the chaos of the vintage.
An unusually warm start to the year caused the vines in early-ripening sites to bud as early as the end of March. April lived up to its reputation for “doing whatever it wants”, bringing challenging swings between just under 30°C around April 10th and—just one week later—temperatures around freezing. “Fortunately, we in Loiben got off lightly when it came to the dreaded late frost,” he comments.
Flowering occurred in early June and developed well in moderate temperatures. The following summer months were hot, but rain was sufficient and reasonably well distributed, so everything pointed to an early start to the harvest. Indeed, it began in intense heat at the start of September, but from 12th September, heavy rains forced the family to take a break lasting several days.
In the cellar—where the first wines were already fermenting—there was a good half-metre of groundwater standing; hardly welcome, but thankfully it caused no damage. “The situation in the vineyards proved more problematic: several dry-stone walls could not withstand the rain and now need to be rebuilt,” says Emmerich. “Following this unplanned interruption, the cooler weather slowed the ripening process somewhat, which had a decidedly positive effect on preserving the acidity and, consequently, the freshness of the wines.” With no further setbacks, the team continued the harvest in their usual manner until its conclusion in mid-October.
“Despite the hot late summer, our wines are moderate in alcohol and impress with their delicate fruitiness and balanced acidity,” Emmerich tells us. “We are delighted with these structured, promising wines that offer depth—and are easy to drink.”
Now that they’re in Australia, we’re delighted, too. Get among them!
GRÜNER VELTLINER
2024 Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Loibner Federspiel RRP $70
From 25 to 40-year-old vines planted on various plots lower down on the slopes on alluvial soil and sand. Harvested by hand and pressed as bunches, with a few hours of skin contact in the pneumatic press. Natural fermentation takes place in a mix of older, large-format casks (500- to 5000-litre) and stainless steel, followed by around 3 months on full lees with no bâtonnage.
Sliced fennel, green apples, fresh pears and some chamomile on the nose, followed by a medium-bodied, gently herbal and well-balanced palate. Drink now. 91 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
2024 Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Ried Kreutles Smaragd RRP $125
The vines have an average age of 25 years and grow on sandy loess with gneiss. The grapes are handpicked over multiple passes through the vineyard and are pressed as bunches with 4 to 6 hours of skin contact. Naturally fermented in a mix of 500- to 5000-litre casks and tanks, followed by 6 to 8 months ageing on lees with no bâtonnage.
Pretty honey, chamomile and tropical fruit aromas in this full-bodied and expressive white. I like the mineral and stone undertones to the yellow fruit and flowers. Excellent focus, brightness and balance. Drink or hold. 94 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Kreutles Smaragd, from the higher reaches of the site, still swings with yeastiness on the nose. Only brief glimpses of juicy apple and green pear appear. The palate shows concentration and a real core that combines lemon zest and yeast, with slight pepper and lemon pith lending texture, spice and mouthwatering length. (92–94 points). Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous May 2025
Everything is here: body but not weight, length but no heat.
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
2024 Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner Ried Loibenberg Smaragd RRP $150
Grown on warm, south-facing terraces on the fabled Loibenberg vineyard on primary rock (gneiss). Vines are an average of 28 years old, with some as old as 50. Harvested by hand and pressed as bunches, with 4-6 hours of skin contact in the pneumatic press. Natural fermentation takes place in a mix of older, large-format casks (500- to 5000-litre) and stainless steel, followed by around 6 to 8 months on full lees with no bâtonnage.
Very bright and expressive yet structured, showing aromas of coriander, honeysuckle, pineapple and candied lemons. It’s full-bodied, firm and full of tension. Tannin tautness to support the fruit and wild herbs that evolve to salty minerality at the end. Drink or hold. 96 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Loibenberg Smaragd adds aromatic crushed ivy to its ripe pear, alongside gorgeous white pepper. On the palate, it is smooth and round, plunging into a depth of flavour that unites yellow pear, yeast, crushed sage and more of that lovely pepper. The texture only underlines this. Everything is here: body but not weight, length but no heat. 94–96 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous May 2025
The beauty is the equanimity, the balance and the richness that has not an ounce of fat.
Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous
2024 Emmerich Knoll Grüner Veltliner ‘Vinothekfüllung’ Smaragd RRP $213
The idiosyncratic ‘pinnacle’ of the Knoll Grüner Veltliner tree. Rather than coming from a specific site, ‘Vinothekfüllung’ is a blend of the ripest grapes from the best sites grown on a mixture of soils. Harvested by hand and pressed as bunches, with 4-6 hours of skin contact in the pneumatic press. Natural fermentation takes place in a mix of older, large-format casks (500- to 5000-litre) and stainless steel, followed by around 6 to 8 months on full lees with no bâtonnage.
This full-bodied white has exotic aromas of wildflower honey, pineapple, candied citrus and some tobacco. Ripe and complex, but it remains pristine and focused, with a very long, firm and powerful finish. Try after 2026. 97 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Grüner Veltliner Loibner Vinothekfüllung Smaragd is picked across the estate’s sites – this year Kreutles, Loibenberg and a little Kellerberg – from the ripest fruit, with the tiniest proportion of botrytis. The nose is shy and does not yet want to show its charm. The palate is creamy, smooth and rich with yeast, wonderfully rich with white miso savouriness, flowing and textured. This really needs time. The beauty is the equanimity, the balance and the richness that has not an ounce of fat. 95 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous May 2025
RIESLING
2024 Emmerich Knoll Riesling Loibner Federspiel RRP $80
From a mix of younger and older vines (between 5 and 40 years old) planted on various plots closer to the river on alluvial soil and sand. From 25 to 40-year-old vines planted on various plots lower down on the slopes on alluvial soil and sand. Harvested by hand and pressed as bunches, with a few hours of skin contact in the pneumatic press. Natural fermentation takes place in a mix of older, large-format casks (500- to 5000-litre) and stainless steel, followed by around 3 months on full lees with no bâtonnage.
Beautiful white-peach and garden-herb aromas with a touch of yellow grapefruit give this a lot of charm and character. Very zesty and energetic on the sleek, medium-bodied palate. Drink or hold. 92 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
2024 Emmerich Knoll Riesling Ried Loibenberg Smaragd RRP $164
100% Riesling from the famed south-facing Loibenberg vineyard. This is the warmest site Knoll works with, and the average age of the vines is around 40 years. Harvested by hand and pressed as bunches, with 4-6 hours of skin contact in the pneumatic press. Natural fermentation takes place in a mix of older, large-format casks (500- to 5000-litre) and stainless steel, followed by around 3 to 4 months on full lees with no bâtonnage.
An extremely expressive Loibenberg, very spicy and smoky with stacks of candied orange peel and a touch of mango chutney. Remarkable concentration, ripeness and structure, yet vibrant acidity lights this up like a flare in the night. Fine tannins build impressively in the compact, lingering finish. Drinkable now but best from 2027. 96 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Riesling Loibenberg Smaragd offers superb flint and crushed citrus on the nose. The palate follows in the same vein, revealing beautiful linearity and lovely zestiness, with a touch of yeast. (93–95 points). Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous May 2025
‘2024 Emmerich Knoll Riesling Ried Schütt Smaragd RRP $199
The magnificent walled Schütt vineyard, at the eastern foot of Loibenberg, is one of the Knoll family’s most cherished sites. Heterogeneous soils, including stones washed down from high up the mountain, rocks, gneiss and sandy loess, mean that both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner flourish on the site, and this otherworldly Riesling is as great an expression of the grape as you’ll find anywhere on planet earth.
Enormously complex fruit on the nose with every shade of peach, plus a ripe and concentrated palate. The depth is fantastic, but this doesn’t influence the weight of the wine. The beautifully balanced finish is extremely long. Exceptionally elegant and polished for the 2024 vintage. Drink or hold. 98 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Riesling Schütt Smaragd, from gneiss, still shows flintiness on the nose. The palate brings creaminess and considerable zestiness, with mandarin juiciness emerging on this linear, taut and bright wine. It is superbly clean cut, mouthwatering and intensely zesty. 95–97 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous May 2025
2024 Emmerich Knoll Riesling Ried Kellerberg Smaragd RRP $164
The mighty, iconic terraced Kellerberg vineyard produces deep, profound and thought-provoking Riesling. The centuries-old, terraced walls retain and reflect heat, resulting in grapes that are intense and full of flavour. The site reigns supreme, and wines made from grapes grown on Kellerberg speak volumes about the terraces on which they are grown, and varietal character is often overshadowed by the extremely strong stamp of the site itself!
Very tense and structured with terrific energy, this is a brilliant Kellerberg in every sense. Extremely focused and sleek for a medium- to full-bodied dry Riesling. Remarkably long, tightly wound finish. Drink or hold. 96 points. Claire Nesbitt, jamessuckling.com Sep 2025
The 2024 Riesling Kellerberg Smaragd, which enjoys afternoon shade from the Höhereck site, opens with smooth, juicy apricot. The palate is rounded, with citrus oil, beautiful concentration and superb smoothness, all contributing to a sense of serenity. An outstanding wine from a difficult year. 94–96 points. Anne Krebiehl MW, Vinous May 2025
