Domaine Labruyère is the Beaujolais estate of the top-flight French vigneron family behind Champagne Labruyère and famed Burgundy producer Jacques Prieur.
Now in its seventh generation, Domaine Labruyère is one of the oldest wineries in the Moulin-a-Vent appellation. Its history here dates back to 1850, when wine grower Jean-Marie Labruyère settled in les Thorins, a hamlet of Romanèche-Thorins. He acquired 25 acres of well-located vineyards. The later acquisition of the famous “Clos du Moulin-à-Vent”, a unique monopole, epitomises the restless quest for excellence of subsequent generations. Located right beside the iconic windmill, this is one of the most precious jewels in the formidable Famille Labruyère crown.
Jean-Pierre Labruyère, long-serving president of Moulin-à-Vent cru, handed the estate’s reins in 2008 to his son Edouard. Together with talented, long-standing winemaker Nadine Gublin and viticulturist Michel Rovere, Edouard has injected an even greater dynamism into this spearhead of world-class Beaujolais.
2016 Labruyère Bourgogne Gamay RRP $35
Barrel sample. Mid cherry red. Juicy Gamay fruit. Lively and spiced on the palate, supple tannins, very drinkable but should age better than many Bourgogne Pinots with quite definite but fine tannins. 16/20 Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2018
2016 Labruyère Coeur de Terroirs RRP $43
MAGNUM RRP $107
This 100% Gamay cuvée is a selection of great terroirs of Domaine Labruyère, predominantly grown on granite soils rich in quartz. Vines of 50 years of age on average, planted at 10,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are harvested manually in 25kg crates before passing through a double sorting table. Fermentation of 100% destemmed grapes takes place in concrete or stainless steel tanks, in order to isolate each parcel and to express the unique characteristics of the terroirs. The entire system is thermo-regulated. Half the wine is aged in concrete tanks, and another half in used barriques and 600-litre demi-muids, for 12 months. Slight filtration and no fining.
Barrel sample. Mid crimson. Peppery and dark-fruited with a light rocky/mineral note. Dry and savoury on the palate, a lovely refined darkness but not lacking fruit. Classic Moulin-à-Vent with tannic finesse and firmness, well balanced for ageing. Dry, chalky finish. Elegant. 16.5/20 Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2018
2016 Labruyère Champ de Cour RRP $53
MAGNUM RRP $124
The peculiarity of this south-east facing granitic plot is the presence of pebbles under a thick layer of dense clay, which gives the wine a bold character with pronounced minerality. 100% Gamay with an average age of 50 years planted to 10,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are harvested manually in 25kg crates before passing through a double sorting table. The fermentation of 100% destemmed grapes takes place in a single concrete vat, in order to isolate the parcel and to express the unique characteristics of its terroir. The entire system is thermo-regulated. The wine is aged in used 600-litre demi-muids for 13 months. Slight filtration and no fining.
2016 Labruyère Le Carquelin RRP $69
MAGNUM RRP $156
The vineyard spans 1.75 hectares. This terroir has light, sandy clay, quite acid and with low levels of organic matter. It has the typical pink colour of the cru. Its granite is highly decomposed and medium deep. 100% Gamay with an average age of 50 years planted to 10,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are harvested manually in 25kg crates before passing through a double sorting table. The fermentation of 100% destemmed grapes takes place in a single concrete vat, in order to isolate the parcel and to express the unique characteristics of its terroir. The entire system is thermo-regulated. Wine is aged in oak barrels (15% new) for 12 months. Slight filtration and no fining.
Barrel sample. Deep crimson. Not very expressive now, just dark and rocky and invitingly so. Tantalising. Savoury and rocky dark fruit, has fruit to balance but not to shout at you. This is really elegant and the opposite of showy. Super-refined. 17/20 Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2018
2016 Labruyère Le Clos du Moulin à Vent RRP $99
MAGNUM RRP $222
A unique monopole of the appellation, this 0.92-hectares site is perfectly located by the windmill, the symbol of the cru. Based on a dry, hard, granitic soil, this exceptional terroir produces outstanding Gamay offering structured, mineral, long-lasting wines as iconic as the greatest French wines. 100% Gamay with an average age of 70 years, planted to 10,000 vines per hectare. Grapes are harvested manually in 25kg crates before passing on a double sorting table. The fermentation of 100% destemmed grapes takes place in a single concrete vat, in order to isolate the parcel and to express the unique characteristics of its terroir. The entire system is thermo-regulated. Wine is aged in oak barrels (15% new) for 12 months. Slight filtration and no fining.
Monopole. Barrel sample. Deep cherry red. Smells very different from Le Carquelin, more meaty but still that dark, rocky minerality. Bone dry, chalky. Refined texture, almost chalky but more like layers of paper. A long, dark, savoury finish. Needs time. 17++/20 Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com January 2018