2019 Bründlmayer Riesling Heiligenstein Lyra

Bründlmayer

Austria / Kamptal / Bründlmayer

The Bründlmayer family owns 12 hectares right in the centre of the Zöbinger Heiligenstein. 10.5 hectares are planted with Riesling, the remainder for experimental purposes with Cabernet (mostly Cabernet Franc). From a geological point of view the Zöbinger Heiligenstein site is not only the oldest but probably also the most interesting on our estate: the soil consists of approximately 270 million-year-old Permian desert sandstone. The sediments contain volcanic inclusions and carbonised remains of primeval vegetation. The uniqueness of this soil, its perfect gradient and position (SW to SE in a climatic borderland) provide ideal conditions for growing outstanding wines. During the day warm winds (often due to the effects of the Pannonian climate) climb the site, whereas by nightfall cool gusts from the north start blowing through the Kamp Valley and bring forward the aromatic expression of the grapes.
About 20% of our Heiligenstein vineyards are trained in a Lyre trellis system. The vine bifurcates in a way that the branches seem to reach to the heavens like sun-worshippers. This method doubles canopy exposure and favours aeration which improves photosynthesis and prevents dreaded fungus diseases. Yields are restricted by rigorous thinning and although harvest started late only healthy berries without botrytis were brought in. These techniques result in increasing the quality of grapes to show a similar intensity as those deriving from old vines.
We ferment the must in stainless steel at a temperature of 15 to 20° C. After fermentation the wine matures on the lees till bottling in summer. Alcohol 13%; RS dry; acidity 7.3g/L.
A deep fragrance of passion fruit, yuzu citrus and peppermint radiates freshness and vitality and yet immediately drives deep. Highly elegant and distinguished, full of fruit charm and esprit, fills the mouth with bright aromas. Focused and complex all the way into the long finish. Extraordinary ageing potential. – Weingut Bründlmayer

March, 2021

Anne Krebiehl MW

Wine Enthusiast

98 points.

Faint notes of ripe Mirabelle come with a notions of crushed lemon leaf while a certain citrus headiness makes its way to the pleasure centre of the brain. The palate is bundled and compact, offering continuous bursts of citrus freshness. The effect is both exciting and cooling, invigorating and calming. Drink by 2050.

September, 2020

Stuart Pigott

jamessuckling.com

96 points.

In spite of the moderate alcohol content in this context, this is quite a substantial wine with a ton of depth. Still a bit shy on the nose with lots of dried and fresh herbs, this is much more suave on the palate, until you get to the tightly wound finish that’s chock full of minerals. Better after 2020.

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About Bründlmayer

This is probably Austria's number one estate outside the Wachau. If you are to believe former World Champion sommelier Andreas Larsson, Bründlmayer is in fact the nation’s finest, bar none. However you look at it, this is another one of the world’s top white winegrowers. The winery is situated in Langenlois, some 70 km northwest of Vienna, upstream along the Danube in the Lower Austrian Kamp Valley. The wooded hills of the Waldviertel protect the vineyards from the cold north-westerly winds. During the day, the sun warms the stony terraces, while at night the fresh, fragrant forest air drifts through the Kamp Valley into the Langenloiser Arena. The Kamptal is not far from the Wachau or Kremstal but it does throw up a whole different terroir and style mix. Grüner Veltliner and Riesling are still kings but there are no Federspiel/Smaragd categories. The wines of Bründlmayer are dry, mineral, powerful and harmonious.
Since 1980 this talented winemaker has transformed 125 acres of terraces, set above the Danube in Langenlois, into a beacon for Austrian wine. Jancis Robinson on Willi Bründlmayer

About

“Since 1980 this talented winemaker has transformed 125 acres of terraces, set above the Danube in Langenlois, into a beacon for Austrian wine.” So wrote Jancis Robinson of Willi Bründlmayer, who inherited from his father a love and respect for nature that has become more profound through travels to other major winegrowing regions of the world. Only organic fertilisers such as composted vegetable matter are used in the estate’s vineyards. Ecological harmony has absolute priority here: when old vineyards are grubbed up they are left fallow for five years before replanting so that the soil can regain its natural fertility; clover and wild herbs regenerate it and create an ideal meadow habitat for bees and butterflies. To prevent erosion, water sumps have been created at regular intervals, which also help to improve the micro-climate. Willi never uses herbicides to control the growth of weeds. Thanks to him, the family name has become synonymous with reliable, top-quality Austrian winemaking, making some of the very best wines the country has to offer. At the turn of the millennium, Decanter magazine cited Willi among the 50 most likely people to change the face of the world of wine in the coming decades, which goes some way to demonstrating the esteem in which he is held at home and in the broader world of wine.