2015 Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner Kellerberg Smaragd

Domäne Wachau

Austria / Wachau / Domäne Wachau

The Kellerberg is Dürnstein’s steep landmark mountain, rising up right behind the Kellerschlössel (Domäne Wachau’s baroque cellar castle). The vines root deep into the light-coloured "Gföhler Gneiss" which consists mainly of feldspar and quartz, covered by sandy loess soil in some parts. The strong Pannonian climate influence on Kellerberg yields full-bodied and complex, yet impressively mineral wines.
Grüner Veltliner from Kellerberg is characterised by low yields (5.8 tonnes per hectare) due to the poor soil on these steep terraces. After multiple, precise selections in the vineyards the grapes were carefully hand-picked at the end of October. The wine was fermented and matured in stainless steel tanks and in big wooden casks. It was bottled late (June 2016) and lengthy contact with the fine lees provides more intricate detail and greater finesse.
Medium green-yellow with golden reflections; open and expressive on the nose, with dark and smoky spices, delicious stone fruit, white peach, some grapefruit and yellow apple. On the palate it’s very distinctive, structured and powerful with an enjoyable, crisp acidity. It's multi-layered and long with subtle spice and salty minerality.

November, 2017

Bruce Sanderson

Wine Spectator

91 points

Direct, bursting with guava, white flowers and grapefruit peel flavors. Shows complexity, with an intense sea salt note zipping through the slightly thicker texture. Drink now through 2022.

February, 2017

David Schildknecht

Vinous Media

89-90 points

Pink grapefruit and papaya, lime, quince and pineapple inform one of the rare Domäne Wachau wines of this collection whose forwardly ripe fruitiness genuinely screams “2015!” These elements combine for a luscious, glycerol-rich, expansive midpalate nevertheless possessed of ample primary juiciness. The finish, though, is slightly diffuse and wanting a bit for site-typical or indeed varietally typical flavors. Perhaps this would have been better if picked slightly sooner. Having reached 13.9 percent alcohol, it’s an outlier in the present collection, though thankfully, there is no corresponding heat or roughness. Perhaps the wine will gain clarity post-bottling.

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About Domäne Wachau

Sustainable Austria-certified Domäne Wachau draws on some of the very best vineyards in the Wachau, including mythical names like Singerriedel, Achleiten, Kellerberg and Loibenberg. Estate chief Roman Horvath MW and winemaker Heinz Frischengruber have mobilised and energised some 250 small growers into growing balanced crops of ripe, healthy grapes across the valley. These translate to powerfully regional and site-specific wines that these days stand proudly next to the most revered estates of the region. The Domäne Wachau Terrassen and single-vineyard wines are sourced from the best grapes grown on the steep terraces of the Wachau. These are vinified with conscientious focus on terroir and express the mineral character derived from the complex rocky soils of the Wachau. They're also some of the very best-value wines that we import.

About

Before making his home in the Wachau, Roman worked in the wine trade as well as wineries in Chile and France. He was the second Austrian to successfully complete the prestigious MW course at the Institute of Masters of Wine in London. Roman joined the Domäne Wachau as winery director in 2004 where he has been responsible for the successful restructuring and strategic positioning of the winery. He also keeps very busy in his private life as a father who is proud of a daughter and twin boys.