2015 Dr. Loosen Bernkasteler Lay Riesling Kabinett

Dr Loosen

Germany / Mosel / Dr Loosen

Bernkasteler Lay (pronounced LIE — an old dialect word for “slate”) is situated around the Dr. Loosen estate house, directly along the Mosel, just outside the village of Bernkastel. As the name indicates, the soil is predominantly blue slate, but it is heavier and deeper than the soil in the neighbouring villages of Wehlen or Graach. This site has a gentler slope than the estate’s other vineyards. It produces richly textured, assertive wines.
Under close to perfect conditions, the team was able to harvest grapes with optimal must weights and acidity levels in 2015, producing wines in all quality levels. The vintage also gave excellent yields, with a beautiful balance of ripeness and acidity. The wines are dense and concentrated, but with the delicate and graceful style of the Mosel.
These are 60 year-old vines on average, grown on blue Devonian slate. It's farmed sustainably, according to strict German environmental regulations. The grapes were selectively handpicked on 25th October. Cool fermentation in a combination of stainless steel tanks and Fuder barrels, half fermented with natural yeasts, half with cultured yeasts. Alcohol: 7.5%; residual sweetness 49.9g/L; total acidity 9.5 g/L.

June, 2017

James Halliday

Weekend Australian

95 points

Always close to the quality of the Wehlener, its bouquet is highly floral, with citrus and white flowers to the fore. Varietal fruit, residual sugar and residual sugar provide a three-way burst of sublime freshness and coherence. 7.5% alc; screwcap. Drink to 2030.

February, 2017

Mike Bennie

The Wine Front

91 points

Loads of texture, light on flavour, touch of sweetness, fine zingy spritz (at first). All adds up to watch this bottle disappear like magic. It’s, of course, wonderfully perfumed with citrus, Asian spice, wet slate character, the palate not too dissimilar but with a squeeze of tart grapefruit juice for good measure. It’s quite rich its fleshiness but keeps this light, lacy appeal. Brilliant drinking.

October, 2016

Jean Fisch & David Rayer

Mosel Fine Wines

91 points

The 2015er Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett was made with fruit harvested at a modest 82° Oechsle. It offers a gorgeous nose of fresh herbs, white peach and spices. The wine dances on the palate, with good presence and elegance. The finish is airy and vibrant. This is a deliciously well-made Kabinett 2025-2035.

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About Dr Loosen

Dr Loosen has been in the same family for more than 200 years and its present guardian, Ernst Loosen, is one of the great characters of the wine world. He assumed ownership of the estate in 1988 and immediately realised that, with ungrafted vines averaging 60 years old in some of Germany's best-rated vineyards, he had the raw materials to create stunningly intense, world-class wines. To achieve this, Erni dramatically reduced his crop size and ceased using chemical fertilisers, preferring only moderate use of organic fertilisers. And, most importantly, he turned to gentler cellar practices that allow the wine to develop to its full potential with a minimum of handling and technological meddling.

About

Ernst Loosen is one of the great characters of the wine world. He was born into great winemaking tradition but it wasn't his first instinct to take it up himself. Instead he went off to study archaeology and it wasn't until the mid-1980s that he was spurred to take the plunge into wine. His father was ready to turn the estate over to the next generation but none of Erni's brothers or sisters was old enough or interested enough to take it on. Thankfully, Erni threw himself into it with characteristic fervour. He completed studies at Germany’s renowned winemaking school in Geisenheim and then launched into a self-directed review of the great wines of the world.
He travelled to Austria, Burgundy, Alsace, even California. He went wherever great wine was being made, seeking out the best winemakers to find out what they had in common. What he discovered was that they all share a dedication to producing intense, concentrated wines that boldly proclaim their heritage. They also have a worldly outlook that allows them to maintain respect for tradition while tempering it with reason. This gives them the freedom to acknowledge that not all traditions deserve to be doggedly observed, and allows judicious use of modern winemaking techniques when it will improve quality.