About Protero
About
2018 Protero Nebbiolo
Protero
The dynamics of tannin, first and foremost, drive all of Stephen’s red-winemaking decisions. Steve loves good Nebbiolo, and good Nebbiolo hinges on understanding tannin. Back in 2004, Stephen Pannell's family returned from Piedmont to find Nebbiolo growing in the northern Adelaide Hills. The vineyard, just outside Gumeracha, was planted by Rose and Frank Baldasso in 1999. Steve started working with the fruit in 2005.
In late December 2019 Fiona and Steve signed a contract for the Baldassos’ vineyard. It was planted to all the wrong varieties bar one: five clones of Nebbiolo. A week later, it was on fire, and only through the courage of others was Protero spared. Surrounded by brave people, the Pannells knew they too had to be courageous. To that end they removed Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Viognier and planted varieties they like drinking and believe in for the region: Barbera, Dolcetto, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Riesling. They’re all well suited to the landscape, the region and in particular this place, Protero.
The label image is inspired by a Coptic Christian sigil – a good luck charm, basically, because as Stephen Pannell says, “We could all do with a little good luck”.
The inaugural release from the Protero Vineyard is everything Stephen Pannell had in mind: A pourable, slurpable Nebbiolo for everyone, anytime. It’s delicately floral and bursting with bright fruit, with beautifully integrated tannins that unfurl gently, plus lovely length and balance.
Halliday Wine Companion 2022
96 points.
From a 20+yo vineyard that winemaker Steve Pannell has sourced from (on and off) for much of that time. He has recently purchased it. Separate clonal parcels were macerated for just over 3 weeks, later maturing for 20 months in large French oak vats. You might just want to stay with the aromas forever and a day, captivating, lifted, generous in their mix of dried orange, garden rose beds, leaf stem and petal, followed by a completely different savoury, mineral, amaro bitters-toned palate. Nebbiolo tannins as expected, fitting comfortably into the matrix. A fascinating, long-term journey ahead.
February, 2021
The Real Review
95 points.
Pale brick-red colour, with a smoked-meat, charcuterie, dried mushroom and vanilla bouquet; pot pourri and milk chocolate, too. The bouquet is seriously fragrant and lovely: dried flowers and dried herbs, while the palate is medium-bodied and appealingly soft and supple, with gentle tannins and early drinkability. A very charming nebbiolo. It's arguably forward-developed, but the upside is it makes seriously delicious drinking without any waiting.
June, 2021
The Real Review
93 points.
Nebbiolo’s distinctive personality is finding good expression in an increasing number of Australian vineyard sites and Protero, owned by S.C.Pannell Wines since late 2019, is one of them.
This 2018 wine has a middling red colour of only medium depth, typical of youthful nebbiolo, and the nose has excellent varietal aromas of tar, red berries, dried roses and poached rhubarb. Flavours of juicy dark plums and dry herbs combine savouriness and ripeness in classical balance with juicy acidity and ripe, layered tannins.
February, 2021
The Wine Front
92 points.
Plum, baked strawberry and rhubarb, aniseed, dusty spices, mushroom and flowers. Medium-bodied, juicy red fruit with a spicy and earthy character, orange zest, fresh acidity, fine dusty tannin, and a zesty and amaro-laced finish of good length. Great drinking. Really hits the spot.
Gold medal, Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show 2020
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