Here they are, then: “the four master works,” as James Halliday called them in bestowing the title of Winery of the Year on this great Yarra Valley estate. The foundations, Halliday goes on, were laid down by John Middleton in 1971 and the wines “became legendary within a decade”. “A single word cannot possibly do justice to Mount Mary’s Quintet, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Triolet,” he continues. “But they are joined at the hip by elegance. By all means add balance, purity and length, and…