“Grüner Veltliner is a diva, and Riesling is a masochist,” says Sophie Bodenstein of the environs in which these varieties thrive in the Danube Valley. It’s little surprise to see her anthropomorphise these grapes; not only are they hugely expressive in the Wachau’s amazing vineyards, but Sophie herself is a vibrantly perceptive people person. This standout estate aims to make “archetypal, one-of-a-kind wines that clearly reflect their origin”, she tells us. It succeeds. “Clean, straight, precise and linear” is the style, and the Nahe producer…