Scorpo sits comfortably in the highest rank of wines from the Mornington Peninsula – or any of Australia’s cool-climate regions, for that matter. It’s been there for years, yet somehow seems like a slow-burning success. It’s been a little quiet about it, perhaps that’s why. But wine writers are vociferously unequivocal. We thought we ought to speak up, too. This has been a true, from-the-ground-up project. The planning, planting, nurturing and honing of the vineyard absorb the attention of trained horticulturist and landscape architect…