It has been truly refreshing—really, there’s no refreshment quite like it—reminding ourselves, and everyone else, how scintillatingly original these wines remain. It was a pleasure to welcome Alexandre Garandel to Australia at the end of July to mark 20 years since the inaugural 700-series release. The first wine, released in 2005 with 2000 as its base vintage, did more than rewrite the rulebook on the non-vintage concept; it turned Champagne on its head. Suddenly, the big houses weren’t on top. Small was beautiful. Site, not…